How was the plan?

In Ladakh there is a saying: The weather changes as quickly as fashion in Mumbay. But one could go a step further and extend this wisdom to what the day generally brings. I somehow suppressed that. Making plans? You can forget about it!

My plan was actually to be at the festival from 23rd to 28th June in Lamayuru and then participate in the five-day teachings of His Holiness in the nearby Tserkamo Monastery in Tingmosgang. After that, my internship with the statue maker should start. That was the plan.

Kathmandu is calling

But suddenly everything is different. We unexpectedly receive the news that my teacher Sonam Jorphel Rinpoche is expected in Kathmandu. He has been in Vietnam for a few years and receives very rare visits there. So it is a unique opportunity to see my 84-year-old motivator again.

So, first of all, I am going to Leh with my grand supporter Rangdröl. He has already booked a ticket to Kathmandu for himself. I am still undecided. Especially since Rangdröl tells me that such visits have been announced before, but were canceled at the last moment. We agree that I will wait for his message in Leh whether the Rinpoche actually arrives in Kathmandu.

Detour to the power bank

On the way to Leh, we of course make detours to the surroundings. To the hydroelectric power plant, for example, which ensures the entire energy supply for Ladakh from the Indus. Admittedly: Despite the water-powered power bank, there are power outages from time to time. Especially in the villages. I don't understand why. Because the water fountain from the power plant gives an idea of how much power the river provides.

From this very worldly detour, we continue to one of Ladakh's oldest sanctuaries. Alchi impresses with its ancient meditation rooms, statues, and paintings. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited here, as the flash could damage the ancient sanctuaries.

The first apricots

So I only take photos of the apricot trees that already bear unripe fruits. Rangdröl picks a few of them and offers me one to taste. What now? Yes, he says, they taste good. And indeed. A little sour still, but the typical Ladakhi apricot taste is already there.

In Leh, Rangdröl then accommodates me in Zanang, where a hot shower is waiting for me. After a week in Lamayuru without hot water, it is a real treat. It feels like coming back to civilization.

Furthermore, I am looking forward to seeing Rangdröl's nieces Angmo and Lhamo again. The two are nearly 30 years old and as different as day and night. Angmo - a full-fledged businesswoman - is firmly grounded and runs the hotel. Lhamo is more of a beauty queen but impresses with her open and friendly nature. Their mother Jangdröl is Rangdröl's sister and a real comedian. When I explore the burial and Amithaba place nearby on foot with her and Lhamo, she starts doing jumping jacks and laughs hysterically. You can't help but fall into her infectious laughter.

Farewell gifts

Rangdröl and I have one more day to explore the surroundings of Leh. He takes me to Hemis Monastery, which is about half an hour's drive away. The monks there are also practicing for the Lama dances. But since Hemis belongs to a different lineage, the old statues and wall paintings mean very little to me. Photography is also prohibited here, in case anyone is wondering about the lack of photos.

We then snack on some momos (dumplings) before Rangdröl takes us to a plot of land that he bought some time ago. He wants to sell it later for profit. This gives me an insight into how new residential areas are being developed in Ladakh. Firstly, the plot boundaries are walled in with plenty of stones. Water and the rest of the infrastructure only come later when the buildings are more or less built. That needs improvement. But as often as not, I think that in 10 years or so, this will also be adapted to Western standards.

I am a little sad at the farewell dinner with Rangdröl's family. My helpful friend gives me saffron and apricot oil as a farewell gift. When we will see each other again is uncertain.

That's all for now. More news soon.