15/10/2018 Today is my last full day in Hong Kong. Armelle and I want to take the opportunity and go on a trip to Macao together. However, we have no intention of trying our luck at roulette or blackjack at the numerous casinos here in the "Las Vegas of the East". No, even though our travel budget could use a boost, we are interested in the unique fusion of Portugal's colonial heritage with modern China. At least that's what the guidebook promises, and I'm excited. The journey to the 65km distant Chinese Special Administrative Region of Macao takes one hour by ferry, and then there is passport control for entry and exit. From the pier, you can take a bus to the city. You can ride for free on one of the air-conditioned casino shuttle buses that pick up their guests. However, you would need to know where it is and whether it is close to the intended destination. Since my SIM card does not work here in Hong Kong abroad, we cannot check that. And the temple dancer hostess, who waves the wealthy Chinese to the buses so they can satisfy their gambling urges and spend a lot of money, is indeed decorative but has neither English skills nor any idea. Never mind! We prefer to jump on the public bus, because according to Lonely Planet, Line 26 goes to Ruins of St. Paul. You should have 6 MOP (Macao Pataca) in coins per person. Unfortunately, we don't have the local currency yet, but you can easily pay with Hong Kong dollars, especially since the exchange rate is currently 1:1.
Macao is located in the Pearl River Delta and consists of a peninsula where the historic city center is located, and two outlying islands, Taipa and Coloane, which have merged together through land reclamation. From a distance, you can already see the huge bridges that connect the districts of the city. With the app maps.me and the bus stop map on the bus, we can navigate even offline, so we manage to get off at the right place. Yeah! I immediately notice the peace and tranquility. Compared to the madness of Hong Kong and its hustle and bustle, Macao is downright charmingly rural. Here, you can breathe.
Armelle and I sit down on a bench in the park and make a sightseeing battle plan. We don't have as much time as we would like, as we want to take the ferry back at 4 pm to be in time at the post office to send our souvenirs home before tomorrow's onward journey. We walk to the Ruins of St. Paul, passing by small mosaics, Portuguese bakeries, shabby balconies, and eternal luck. How sweet! The mix of Western and Far Eastern culture is truly unique. At some points, I feel like being in Europe, only to see something typically Chinese seconds later.
Not crowded masses, no traffic jams, no designer shops, no residential towers. Macao feels like the gentle little sister of Hong Kong. Like the gentle little half-sister (with a Portuguese father). Haha! No, seriously. I find Macao really refreshing and I can only recommend every Hong Kong visitor to make a detour here.Such beautiful Portuguese windows, aren't they? Arriving at St. Paul's, I start laughing out loud. I thought the ruins would consist of some remaining walls, partially collapsed, so that only parts of the whole Jesuit church can be seen. But no, only the facade is left! That fits perfectly. In the past few months, I have frequently experienced that Chinese people come to a building, park, viewpoint, take a lot of decorative selfies, and then - without showing any real interest in the culture or pausing to enjoy the sight - disappear again. The most important thing is that the facade is visually appealing! That makes me laugh again.
I find it much more interesting to take pictures of the ruins from the back.
We continue walking to Fortaleza do Monte. From here, you have a fantastic view over the roofs of the city. The Grand Lisboa immediately catches the eye.
With its golden lotus-shaped tower, the casino has become the kitschy landmark of the city. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder! But: Las Vegas is old news, Macao is today. Since it is the only place in China where gambling is legal, the Chinese flock here in droves. Gambling revenues are seven times higher than in Las Vegas. And if it were not economically integrated with China, Macao would be one of the richest countries in the world.
Armelle and I continue on to the Lazarus district. In this neighborhood, there are more beautiful colonial-style houses and picturesque streets with cobblestones. Designers have their studios here. Cute bistros and coffee houses invite you to linger. With confident steps, we make our way to Lou-Lim-Ioec Park. Through a pretty gate, we enter this small green oasis and stroll among lotus ponds and bamboo groves. According to the guidebook, locals use the park for practicing Tai Chi and playing Chinese music. I would have loved to see that, but I assume it takes place in the morning and evening, before and after work. Although ugly Chinese high-rise buildings can be seen in the background, I feel a sense of relaxation. And apparently, I'm not the only one who can relax well here despite the visual outliers.We continue to Fortaleza da Guia, the highest point of the city, which promises a breathtaking panoramic view. On a clear day, you should be able to see as far as China and the islands. Well, with these thick clouds today, that is definitely not going to happen. We climb the fort and arrive sweaty at the top. Unfortunately, the chapel and the lighthouse are not accessible. Too bad. So we just enjoy the pleasant breeze and the beautiful view. Our last point on our sightseeing wishlist is the Mandarin House (Caso do Mandarim). This ancestral home of Zheng Guanying was built in 1869 and includes a moon gate, tranquil courtyards, and more than 60 exquisite rooms and halls arranged labyrinthically in the style of many old Chinese buildings. It's wonderful when you understand so much, isn't it?The Mandarin House itself doesn't impress me that much. But the moon gate does, as well as the delicate details and how the shapes continue inside.Isn't it beautiful?We have trouble finding a bus to the pier. Not knowing that there is more than one, we of course end up at the wrong one as Murphy's Law demands. We then take a taxi to the correct pier and hop on the speedboat. Arriving in Hong Kong, we have to go through immigration again and then get stuck in the crowded metro. Rush hour! As my favorite sister always says so nicely: after tired comes stupid! Here is the best proof!Armelle has a meeting with another couchsurfer. That's good because then I can spend my last evening in Hong Kong alone. Hungry, I go to the food market in Temple Street, as I really want to go there. It's pouring rain and I have no idea where the good food is. So I rely on my instinct. With a cold beer, the waiting time until dinner is easily shortened. With the advice of the waitress, I ordered stir-fried spinach and garlic chicken. Yuuummieh! I'm blown away. By far the best meal I have had here in Hong Kong. If I had known that, I would have had dinner here every night. Afterwards, I quickly buy a sibling beer at the 7Eleven and walk, as quickly as the crowd allows, to the promenade at Victoria Harbour. I find a spot on the steps, open the hissing beer, and here comes the music and light show! Touristy, but also very beautiful. After 10 minutes, the fun is over. The other tourists leave. I stay seated and enjoy the emerging calmness. A perfect moment of total relaxation and enjoyment. I review my visit to Hong Kong in my thoughts. It's unbelievable that I was only here for 4 days and 5 nights. I have seen and experienced so much: and at the same time, there is still so much more I would love to see. A wave of pure happiness flows through me. I am allowed to continue my journey tomorrow, to another new, exciting, and fascinating country. I am so incredibly excited that I have to cry for a while. So beautiful!
