Imechapishwa: 17.02.2017
...and almost every night, here in New Zealand, it lies under a starry sky that you would probably search for in vain in other parts of the world. Some time has passed since the last entry, which is probably due to the fact that I was too busy playing and didn't feel the need to look for a computer and internet... so I try to seamlessly continue where the last entry left off...
Our route took us from Lake Tekapo south towards Lake Pukaki. From this lake you can reach the greatest ruler of the New Zealand mountains, Mount Cook. Aoraki is what the Maoris call it, which means something like cloud piercer. This name is not far-fetched, but hits the nail on the head. The drive there leads from the western shore of Lake Pukaki directly to Mount Cook Village. This drive here is a natural spectacle like no other. Speechlessness and goosebumps carry us at 100 km/h towards Mount Cook. Arriving at the campsite, a gigantic view opens up at night. Aoraki is hiding behind a hill, but its neighbor stands almost majestically in the background of this hill. However, we could not have expected the dangerous adventure that would await us the next day...
Shaken by hurricane-like winds and with strengthened stomachs, we make our way towards the Hooker Lakes at the foot of Mount Cook. The wind mercilessly blows through the valley, turning the flat path into a strenuous trail. Arriving at Hooker Lake, nature shows its full power. A German couple unsuspectingly stands on a wall, and suddenly the wind takes their feet from under the ground. Just a few meters below, the two were incredibly lucky and only slightly bruised their knees and backs. We help the two out of the situation with presence of mind and accompany them back to the car. Everyone arrives healthy and, again, cheerful. The next day we head to the lake of New Zealand's largest glacier, the Tasman Glacier. Like Gollum of yore, Pia and I climb down the slope to the shore of Tasman Glacier Lake. I knew water could be cold, but I had no idea how cold it could actually be. Doesn't help, so off into the lake. Knee-deep, I manage to withstand it for an astonishing 20 seconds at just under 6 degrees...
After that, we get back in our red speedster and head towards Wanaka. My best friend Leo raved about this place. Wanaka is one of the fastest growing places in New Zealand. No one can blame anyone who relocates their life here. Surrounded by green mountains, the town of Wanaka is picturesquely situated on the southern shore of Lake Wanaka...
In my travel book, which I received from Leo, I have to search for and find two places, take a proof photo and paste it into the book. As coincidences happen, location number one is right on Lake Wanaka. The Willow Tree. Known nationwide, and beyond, this tree is further proof of the beauty of this place. Proof photo number 1? Check! I find number two as well...
Unfortunately, we have experienced a lot of rain these days; this is said to be the worst winter in 30 years in New Zealand. We simply make the best of it. Fold down seats, buy chips and beer, turn on music and get out the cards! For what feels like 12 hours, the three of us play Durak and have a cheerful drink... admittedly a very pleasant pastime!
Queenstown is calling! I have to admit that while the nature of New Zealand impresses me every day, as an urban person, I need some polluted air, bustle, and more than just 10 houses. Queenstown has around 12,000 inhabitants and is considered the adrenaline capital of the world, after all, bungee jumping was invented here. We'll get our adrenaline somewhere else; $300 for 7 seconds of free fall is simply too expensive for us. We get our adrenaline from the two most famous burger stands in the city, maybe even in all of New Zealand. The stalls Ferg- and Devilburger serve monstrous burgers with juicy, grease-dripping buns. Welcome to the seventh taste heaven! The beer tastes good too and is not even overpriced, so a proper drinking session is in order!
Queenstown is located on Lake Wakatipu and has a lot to offer. That is probably the reason why Peter Jackson filmed numerous scenes for the three Lord of the Rings films around Queenstown, Glenorchy, and Te Anau. Along the Thommy Thomsen Scenic Drive, which is one of the most beautiful highways in the world, you eventually reach the picturesque village of Glenorchy. There's not much more here than a corner shop, a campsite, and a gas station. But not far from here are the forests of Middle-earth and another location from the second Lord of the Rings film that brings tears to my eyes when I see it. Welcome to Isengard. This similarity to what I admired as a little boy overwhelms me completely. Saruman and his orcs once guarded one of Sauron's two towers here. And now I'm standing here. Without the tower, but with childhood memories, I'm right in the middle of it instead of just being there...
The Department of Conservation (D.O.C.) does excellent work nationwide and offers campsites in the most beautiful places. Our campsite is located right in Isengard, where the Ents once destroyed one of the two towers and flooded the valley. At breakfast, you sometimes forget that since I arrived in New Zealand, I have been eating the same thing every morning.
One of my travel highlights comes two days later. Milford Sound! At first, it may sound typical and boring, as it is one of New Zealand's top attractions, but there's a reason for that! Milford Sound is a fjord near the west coast of the South Island. Here you can take a two-hour boat tour and experience the full splendor and power of this fjord in the rain. When it rains, the lush green mountains transform into thousands of small and giant waterfalls. A majestic place full of strength reveals its full beauty to us! Our captain drives us right under two gigantic waterfalls; we are standing at the very front of the deck. Within seconds, we are wetter than wet dogs. Impressed by our courage, Chris (the captain) invites Pia, Kenny, and me into his wheelhouse and lets us experience the sound from a completely different perspective.
New Zealand, do you also have animal inhabitants? We often asked ourselves this question until we encounter some of them on the way from Milford Sound to the south. The Kea, a kind of eagle, is a predatory, curious, and at the same time trusting bird. These characteristics probably make it 'dangerous'. Dangerous in the sense that it likes to steal a mobile phone from the car if you leave the door or window open... a Kea lets me approach it to a good 30 centimeters. Eagles are my favorite animals, and being able to get so close to a subspecies makes me absolutely happy!
At Catlins Oast, right in the south of the South Island, we encounter dolphins and see three specimens of one of the rarest penguin species. The yellow-eyed penguin. If you keep enough distance, they suddenly appear on the shore at dusk, waddle to their nesting sites, and don't notice us humans. Didn't I say the world is a playground? Not just for us humans, but also for such unique animals like these penguins. We all share this playground. A local comes here every evening and reminds visitors to respect the penguins' playground, otherwise they would disappear from here forever. This woman has been living here since childhood, her family for generations, and she never tires of this moment...
The southernmost point of New Zealand is not far away from here. Slope Point marks the point where it steeply descends into the Pacific. From here, it's still a proud 4,803 kilometers to Antarctica. This idea that nothing but endless water separates us from Antarctica reminds me again of how far away I am from home...I don't forget about VfB and their first away victory of the season here either!
A time is coming to an end. The time with Kenny! Kenny has to go back to Australia, work calls. We drive back to Queenstown since his bus leaves from here the next morning. One of the last pictures with him is taken at the Twelve Mile Deltas Campground, where we spent many intense, funny, and happy evenings. Thank you for this unforgettable time, my friend! See you very soon!
Now we are only three of us...and we drive along the west coast, up to Abel Tasman National Park, where the Abel Tasman Coast Track awaits us. On the way there, I have the opportunity to indulge in one of my greatest passions. Monteiths Brewery in Greymouth offers tours of the brewery, followed by beer tasting. Of course, I take advantage of this opportunity and find out that New Zealand craft beers can be really tasty. But I'm still looking forward to a wheat beer or Herri back home in Germany...
The legs are loosened, the backpack sits tight, the sun is scorching, and off we go on the wild hike. Up and down, left and right, steep and flat... after three hours, we reach our first campground, Mutton Cove, right on the beach. There we see young seals playing and meet many other campers who have the same thing in mind as we do: to fully enjoy the nature, remoteness, and uniqueness of this hiking trail. We do that with wine and cold canned food to the fullest.
The beach is so close that you wake up in the morning under the sun, provided the weather is good. I open the tent and probably experience one of the most beautiful mornings of my life!
The track is about to become a real adventure. Can we cross a lagoon at low tide, and then the next day we have to walk through a river, standing up to our chests in water, carrying our backpacks on our heads. Bear Grylls should try that first!
After 60 kilometers and four days, our tired legs carry us the last meters to the parking lot and the equivalent end of the track. We made it! The legs don't hurt that much; we are simply overwhelmed by what we have experienced and seen in the last few days.
Kristine was supposed to pick us up here with our car, but she doesn't show up as agreed. Thank God, she's fine, but not Drillbit! Our car had to go to the workshop for the second time... a few days later, the shocking news: Drillbit is no more! Not roadworthy anymore because too much is broken. These few days are simply to forget, but will it help much to cry about it? Chin up, say goodbye, and now begins a second adventure in New Zealand! Hitchhiking on the North Island. We leave the South Island with an incredible number of impressions and look back on a unique time. I am absolutely happy, sit on the top deck of the ferry, see the South Island slowly disappear on the horizon, and look forward to the North Island...let the journey go on!