Peace and good: step by step von Assisi in Richtung Poggio bustone

Tomorrow morning I'll set off towards Assisi: first by train via Zurich and Lugano to Milan.

Now I'm on my way: with a 11 kg backpack - including water bottles and hiking boots. Because I don't want to wear them all day for the trip to Milan. The only alternative in my luggage are the sandals, which don't really suit the weather today...

But a look at the weather in Florence gives us hope.

In Zurich I can already pack away my rain jacket and almost get out my sunglasses. It's gradually starting to feel like the Whitsun holidays.

At Lake Zurich and further towards Lake Lugano the landscape changes...it becomes more mountainous, even snow-capped peaks can be seen.

Arrive in Milan and finally no longer sitting. It is now 7.30pm and I walk to the Bed&Breakfast Viale Monza 26: an old 4-storey building with apartments and B&B, very friendly and authentic.

And across the street, a lucky find: MINTA - a tiny restaurant with 10 seats inside and a few outside, fresh and light cuisine with a cheerful, singing waitress.

Today we continue to Assisi: after a wonderful breakfast with marmelata from Nonna and omelette with melanzane and finocchio from Nonno and “parlare” with two Brazilians who are on their way to Venice. Everything is small and original, gentile e familiare ♥️🇮🇹

I rattle through Reggio Emilia towards Florence on the Freccia Rossa, gradually getting closer to the Cammino. It's flat here and you can only see mountains to the west.

Gradually, the landscape in Tuscany becomes hillier. The architecture also changes poco a poco - if I had flown, I wouldn't have seen it.

And then finally: arriving in Assisi. I resist the temptation to get on the bus and walk step by step up the 250 meters of altitude over 3.5 km to the city of St. Francis. Passo per passo towards the destination of the 2023 pilgrimage route, which will be my starting point this year.

The city is buzzing with Pentecost visitors from all over the world, but there are always quiet moments, quiet alleys and even a small restaurant off the beaten track with local dishes: bruschette with red onion and lentil cream, spaghettone with truffles and butter, cantuccini with vin santo.

My quarters with the Franciscan sisters are simple and authentic, set in ancient, thick walls. Sorella Silvana weighs a good 120 kilos and looks impressive in her black robe with a rope around her waist. After our first meeting was a bit alarming because she couldn't find my booking from January, she was very friendly and organized a room for me. Hallelujah!

Today, on Pentecost Sunday, I attended a service in the Basilica of San Francesco: the priest came from Namibia and preached very stirringly and joyfully about the Holy Spirit as the password to our connection with God.

Then I got myself a new pilgrim's passport and the first stamp. Then I can start tomorrow!

In the afternoon, I sat for a whole hour in a quiet corner on the floor of the small Portiuncula chapel, which had long been a refuge for Francis and the first Friars Minor, and absorbed the atmosphere of this special place. Afterwards, I asked for a pilgrim's blessing and was led to an old Franciscan monk who was working on his laptop. When I told him about my Cammino 2023 and my continuation tomorrow, he said an endless Italian prayer, asking God the Father, Son and Holy Spirit to protect me and also San Francesco and Santa Chiara. When he was finished, he said "Aspetto!", took a silver stick out of his breast pocket and sprayed me generously with holy water.

Afterwards I needed a bit of grounding with focaccia and gingerino.

Then I hiked up to the small monastery of San Damiano and just as I was about to collect a pilgrim stamp, an Italian rosary and a service began with many beautiful songs and generous incense. A truly diverse Pentecost Sunday.

On Whit Monday I finally set off out of Assisi and over the Monte Subasio to Spello - a really demanding climb with a good 800 meters of altitude.

On the way: Eremo delle carceri - a monastery that was built strictly according to the Franciscan rules of poverty. The doors are so small and narrow that I can't get through with my backpack, but have to take it off and put it in the next room before I go through myself. There is also a Franciscan bed in the rock and some caves that were places of retreat and prayer for the first Franciscans.

The flora at altitude helps me to keep going. Cyclamen, orchids, flax, wild asparagus… and many beauties whose names I don't know.

The descent is also strenuous: 800 meters downhill on forest paths about 25 cm wide with roots, stones, and cliffs - later on gravel paths through olive groves. A good mindfulness exercise!

I find accommodation with the Franciscan sisters in the Piccolo San Damiano monastery.

Delicious food and cheerful conversations with the nuns round off the day. Buona notte!

Unfortunately, it was not a buona notte: it rained all night and a donkey brayed.

Today I walked in the rain. There were very few people around. At one point I met a couple from Verona who hugged me out of sheer joy at meeting me for the first time in two days.