sky and harbor

September 23rd is approaching. Our night was a bit rough as the place where we wanted to find peace was busy with cars late into the night and early in the morning.

Seems like we chose our spot too hastily. These things happen.

Nevertheless, after a nourishing muesli, we set off. The first route leads to a fresh water station. It turns out that with a capacity of 12l of fresh water, we need to find a fresh water station every other day. The same goes for fuel. With a range of 450km, the fuel lasts for about two days of current daily trips.

We set off with a first destination in mind. The path to our destination leads us through a tropical-looking forest, very unusual for Denmark, and further through dreamy meadows and pastures. The cow and the horse seem to be very happy here. The grass looks incredibly green and juicy.

Upon arriving at the destination, we realize that the entered address is a restaurant called 'Himmel og Hav'. Unfortunately, we don't find the desired tap, but we do find a nice spot on a cliff overlooking the sea and the sun.

We take a moment before getting back on the bus to search for a new fresh water station.

When we arrive back at the bus, the search begins again. We quickly find a station at a highway rest area just 30km from our current location. We refuel our Beppo halfway and this time not with the overpriced unleaded fuel for €1.56, but with E10 for €1.35.

The remaining distance to the rest area leads us over hills and fields through the countryside. With a speed of about 40km/h, the traveling speed is greatly reduced, but the journey itself is the goal here.

With the water supplies replenished, we are now heading about 60km south towards Kolding.

The online recommendations greatly differ from the real picture of the city. It appears very dull, bare, and gray, and the general feeling is that we are not welcome. After a brief visit, we make our way back to the bus and leave the city.

It is difficult to find a suitable place to sleep in the area. Our original plan is to drive back across the border the following day, so we are looking for places that are on the way for now. Since nothing suitable is available, we head a little further north to the neighboring island of Middlefart. A small bay with a toilet entices us.

When we arrive at the spot, we see that we are not the first ones, but at this late hour, we don't mind. The guitar is unpacked, the last rays of sunshine are absorbed, and everything is made ready for bed.

On the morning of September 24th, the first goal is a shower!

We won't find the option we had in the north with a free outdoor shower here. We stick to our old plan and ask at campsites. Unfortunately, the Danes are a bit stricter here than we are in Germany. Once again, we are turned down because sanitary facilities are exclusively reserved for camping guests.

But where one door closes, another one opens.

Through the Park4Night app, we get the idea to check out the various harbors and try our luck there.

In the municipality of Middlefart, there are several associations that are passionate about sailing, kayaking, or simply owning a yacht. With a membership card that can be obtained for a deposit of 5 euros, their sanitary facilities can be used as well.

So, we go for it. First, some sports activities are done to get the tired bones moving again. The card is borrowed and loaded with an amount equivalent to 5 euros, and then we shower under warm water in closed washrooms. Life can be really simple when you know how.

With a fresh wind in our sails, we are now heading east. Since we can't get enough of Denmark, we abandon our plan to cross the border today and replan our route.

Through the southernmost tip of Denmark, we can take the ferry to Rostock. Gedser is located about 230km from Middlefart. We split the route into the following two days and plan to take the ferry on Saturday.

Our destination for the following night is Skaelskor. On the way to Skaelskor, we cross the largest suspension bridge in Europe, the Storebaelt Bridge, with a length of 2694m.

It is truly impressive. Water on both sides and a bridge that stretches to the horizon.

Upon arriving in Skaelskor, a sign informs us that 'camping is prohibited'. Under new destination, we head 30km south to Karrebaeksminde. Just before reaching the chosen parking lot, our path is blocked by a broken bridge. Since the place is on a small island and can only be reached on foot until October 2nd, we have to give up again.

On the third attempt, we finally find a place. After moving back 30km to the north, we reach a secluded parking lot overlooking Lake Tystrup.

The scenery is perfect, we are alone at a sleeping spot for the first night, and we watch the sunset again.

At 10 o'clock at night, a couple of campers from Regensburg join us. After a brief small talk, we learn that they are coming from Sweden. They have been looking for a sleeping spot all evening but don't know where, as they don't want to risk a fine.

Just for clarification, wild camping is allowed in Sweden.