12/10/2016 Fiji # Shark diving and tropical storm on Viti Levu

Contrary to our fears, everything goes smoothly with the flight to the main island Viti Levu. We arrive at the airport on time and exchange some experiences with Ellen and René, two other German travelers who are heading in the opposite direction. After just over an hour and a half, we land in Nadi, where our taxi is already waiting. Luckily, the driver received our message about the flight delay and didn't have to wait longer than necessary.

For the drive to the Beachhouse, our next accommodation on the Coral Coast, we need almost two hours. They take speed control very seriously on Viti Levu, as we never drive faster than the maximum allowed 80 km/h. Our driver must have had some bad experiences, as he complains quite a bit about the modern cameras that are often mounted halfway up the poles. However, the warning system with flashing lights from oncoming traffic works here, just like back home. Because a hidden police patrol with a radar gun that we pass seems to be quite idle.

During check-in at the Beachhouse, there is a brief confusion. We are supposed to pay 39 FJD per day for a meal package, which is half board. However, since we have booked accommodation with breakfast, we naturally do not agree to this. The lady at the reception also acts a little dumb when we show her the booking confirmation and says she cannot read German. She conveniently overlooks the fact that the paper is written in both German and English. Before the situation escalates, the boss comes over and explains that the conditions have changed since our booking and that accommodation with only breakfast is no longer offered. However, he accommodates us without any further issues, and we only pay extra for dinner. We can live with that, especially since there are no alternative dining options nearby.

When we enter our bungalow, we momentarily wish we were back in our beautiful bure on the peaceful Taveuni. The living area of the resort is relatively large and somewhat reminiscent of a children's holiday camp. The hut is very basic, with furnishings consisting of a bed, a sideboard, and two bedside tables. There are no seating or storage options otherwise.

The guests here are quite mixed. There are many, mostly young backpackers and party-goers, as well as families with children. Quiet it is not. The staff here is initially more reserved than what we have been used to so far. Some people are genuinely surprised when we say "Bula!" friendly as we pass by. It makes us realize once again how lovely it was at Aroha. Anyway, for happy hour, we settle into one of the comfortable lounge chairs with a Fiji Bitter and decide to make the best of it. And it's not actually that bad here once you get used to the surroundings.

The next morning, we call Alex from South Pacific Adventure Divers. We had signed up via email for a 3-dive package, with two dives in the Coral Coast, Beqa Lagoon, and Shark Dive each, and now we want to know when we can start. Luckily, we can start on the same day. More precisely, 15 minutes later, as our pick-up is already at the door.

The dive base is located at the Warwick Resort, about a 10-minute drive from the Beachhouse. The whole operation is quite impersonal and focused on mass tourism. The guides and other staff are friendly, but the connection isn't quite there. But that's okay, we're here for the diving. The two dive sites on the first day are quite beautiful, especially "The White Wall." A huge rock wall covered in white corals. It's a shame that our guide seems more interested in snorkeling and only dives the upper third of the wall. However, he also doesn't say anything when we take the initiative to explore further down.

On the second day, we go to Beqa Lagoon and dive near Yanuca Island. The journey there, across rough seas, is a wild ride. Over time, you learn to hold on to something the moment the captain lets off the gas. Usually, you will be lifted up shortly after and land quite roughly on your backside. The dive sites here are also quite beautiful, with all sorts of small marine creatures to photograph. Our three fellow divers are more preoccupied with themselves and the current and are amazed afterwards when they hear about everything we saw.

The third dive day will be the most exciting of all. We go back to Beqa Lagoon, this time for the so-called Shark Dive. In advance, we wondered if we should do it because we are actually against the feeding of fish. However, after some research, we decide to give it a try when we learn that the Shark Dives are part of a long-term conservation program. We won't regret it.

As we descend together with divers from three other boats and take our position behind a wall at about 19m, the place is already teeming with countless reef fish, remoras, and smaller sharks. The spot is aptly named "The Bistro" because once everyone has found their place, the guides bring a large trash can filled with tuna heads and other treats down and dump the contents into a ready-made box on the seabed. One of the feeders puts on a glove made of metal rings as the first bull shark appears. These are actually unpredictable powerhouses. However, these specimens, with a length of over 3m, are accustomed to the show and dutifully take their treats from the hand. In the meantime, more bull sharks, as well as lemon sharks, grey reef sharks, silvertips, and others, appear at the spot and enjoy their meal. All this happens no more than 3m away from us, and some sharks come straight at us before turning away inches from the camera. You don't see that every day. Meanwhile, other guides positioned themselves behind us with aluminum poles to prevent any attacks from behind. After all, they are still predators, and it's better to have an extra eye than to be short one.

After 20 minutes, the frenzy of sharks subsides, and two huge grouper fish see their chance. After that, we leave the feeding spot and visit a fairly new shipwreck not far from the ascent line. When we are back on the boat, everyone has a big grin on their face. Even though the actual star, a territorial tiger shark over 6m long, did not show up, it was still a very memorable experience that we were able to have here. Face to face with a bull shark, amazing.

After getting up early every morning for the past three days, we take advantage of the first day without diving to sleep in. Or at least what older people consider sleeping in, as we don't stay in bed past 7:30 am. However, we take our time with breakfast and then occupy two lounge chairs to write in our diary or create an alternative program for the last few days in Fiji. Until it starts raining in the afternoon and only stops for a while after dinner. We don't yet know that it will be the last time we can use the lounge chairs.

The next day starts with rain again, and during the morning, a stronger and stronger wind sets in, which suddenly turns into a tropical storm in the afternoon. Throughout the resort, everything that is not bolted down is being thrown around. A few trees snap, and the power goes out now and then. Luckily, this morning a lot of people checked out, so the seats in the enclosed restaurant area are sufficient for everyone still here. At some point, it becomes clear that the in-house WiFi is down. In itself not a problem, except that we had sent an inquiry to Air Vanuatu to confirm our domestic flights the night before and have not yet received a response. Oh well, it will be fine.

The next morning, although the wind has calmed down a bit, it still rains occasionally. We spontaneously rent a car and drive to the capital city Suva, which is about 85 km away. Shopping and sightseeing are on the agenda. By the afternoon, we even have sunshine here. Once we have everything done, the floodgates open here as well, and we start making our way home. I spend the last evening more or less alone because Maike caught something and is staying in bed. At breakfast, we learn that more people have been affected, who knows what was in the air there.

It is then time for us to say goodbye. Fiji, and especially Taveuni, has been so great that we definitely want to come back again. The flight from Suva to Port Vila in Vanuatu is scheduled for 2:00 pm. Hopefully, the weather will be better there, we are excited.