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Bolivia - Sorata (Yungas) and the Huayna Potosí

Imechapishwa: 28.07.2018

As always, climb the next highest mountain first and enjoy the view.
As always, climb the next highest mountain first and enjoy the view. Here the Iminapi. Sorata is also beautifully situated in the mountains. In the background the mighty mountain Illampu

Sorata

From Rurrenabaque there was no real progress. Except for hours on a bus through the jungle. That's why I flew to La Paz, because the bus ride back would have been long and uncomfortable. Since I had already packed my backpack, I went from La Paz directly to the northern Yungas to Sorata at 2700m. Three hours by minibus along Lake Titicaca were pleasant despite the lack of leg room. Sorata - advertised as a trekking paradise - doesn't have much else to offer. No internet, no cafes in town. The only refuge is a cafe run by a Swiss person in the middle of a farm with ducks, chickens, dogs, and rabbits. Homemade bread and cake as well. Since there were no tourists in the supposedly high season, I spent two days exploring the surroundings. One day up to the next high mountain Iminapi for a nice view of Illampu. The next day down to the river and a walk along the riverbed. Even two days later, no more hikers arrived to start a tour to the lagoons. So on the third day, I started alone with a guide for acclimatization to Abre Illampu at 4800m and then the next day tackled Laguna Chillata at 4200m and Laguna Glaciar at 5500m.

View of Illampu from Café Illampu.
View of Illampu from Café Illampu.
View from the viewpoint on the wide Yungas.
View from the viewpoint Willakollo on the wide Yungas.
Sorata almost disappears in the panorama.
Sorata almost disappears in the panorama.
Up there the small ledge is the platform.
Up there the small ledge is the viewpoint.
View of the summit. I was just up there.
View of the summit of Iminapi. I was just up there.
Everywhere you have such a beautiful view,...
Everywhere you have such a beautiful view,...
... It looks like this at your feet.
... It looks like this at your feet.
I wanted to hike there on the second day.
I wanted to hike there on the second day.
Of course, I got lost first. I actually wanted to start down there at the bridge.
Of course, I got lost first. I actually wanted to start down there at the bridge.
And then the laundry is washed there diligently.
And then the laundry is washed there diligently.
From below, the stones don
From below, the stones don't look so small anymore.
I didn
I didn't stay dry on my feet. I had to wade through the river twice.
Street dogs everywhere.
Street dogs everywhere.

Basically, everything was frozen in time here. The time, the TV image, the service, and the dishes on the neighboring table. But the pizza was good.

Basically, everything was frozen in time here. The time, the clock, the TV image, the service, and the dishes on the neighboring table. But the pizza was good.


The first day started quite relaxed at 7:30 a.m. One hour car ride to the starting point of the tour at around 3900m. Then it went pretty quickly with guide Roberto up, where he also lives with about 44 families in the village. As children, he and his brother Felix walked 2 hours to school in Sorata every day and 4 hours back (1000 meters in altitude each)! There was no road back then. To become a guide - like his father - was their goal. We wanted to reach the top before the clouds blocked the view of Illampu. We managed that at half past 11. And at 12 o'clock, there wasn't much of the summit left to see. Then we went back down to Sorata. Illampu is also the symbol of Sorata and one of the most difficult mountains in Bolivia, over 6000m high.

That
That's where we went up to the starting point.
The brown fields are harvested potato fields. The potatoes are then dried in the sun and frozen again at night. After a few weeks, they can be stored for up to 3 years. Even without Monsanto. They have about 5000 potato varieties here. ItBolivia hasn't sunk into civil war by then like Venezuela.' />
The brown fields are harvested potato fields. The potatoes are then dried in the sun and frozen again at night. After a few weeks, they can be stored for up to 3 years. Even without Monsanto. They have about 5000 potato varieties here. It's good that these are all small businesses that are not attractive to big industry. In a few years, we will certainly have to rely on this treasure when our agriculture has been optimized to death. Let's just hope that Bolivia hasn't sunk into civil war by then like Venezuela.
We started down there this morning.
We started down there this morning.
We arrived at the top and had a great view of Illampu.
We arrived at the top and had a great view of Illampu.

We were rewarded with a good picnic.
We were rewarded with a good picnic.
The sheep and llamas are also at home here.
The sheep and llamas are also at home here.


The next day, Felix and I set off at 5:30 a.m. The tour was much longer. We needed a car to get to the starting point near Laguna Chillata. On the way we picked up his father. At first, I thought he also wanted to give it a go in his old age. He probably would have kept up with me. But then he 'only' guarded the car all day and waited for us to come back! Originally, I wanted to hike in 3 days. So on the first day from Sorata to Laguna Chillata, on the second day up to Laguna Glaciar, on the third day back to Sorata. But alone, that was too boring. So we set off in the early dawn. Even here, the goal was to be at the lagoon before 12 o'clock. The lagoon was basically on the opposite side of Illampu compared to the previous day. However, the weather didn't cooperate that day. The sun only showed itself at 9 o'clock during the first big break. After that, it became more and more overcast and Illampu couldn't be seen anymore. Nevertheless, we reached Laguna Glaciar under fairly good conditions. And despite the clouds, it was still very beautiful. The most important thing was that I made it up there without any problems. That's when I decided to go for Huayna Potosí. The way back was quite unpleasant. Snow, hail, rain, wind - everything was there. But downhill is always fast. And you warm up during the descent as well. So no problem at all. The trip back by car was more problematic. The farmers had once again set up irrigation canals across the roads. So we had to get out and use some stones to continue driving. Later, there were also duck families and construction equipment on the way. That was it with Sorata. The next day, we returned to La Paz in complete fog. The weather hadn't improved.

That
That's where Laguna Glaciar should be located. The highest goal for me on this day.
We set off in the early dawn on the second day.
We set off in the early dawn on the second day.
Completely relaxed.
Completely relaxed.
We captured the only rays of sunshine of the day...
We captured the only rays of sunshine of the day...
... and enjoyed them.
... and enjoyed them.
We just had our break there.
We just had our break there.
Now it was slowly getting cloudy and quite cold.
Now it was slowly getting cloudy and quite cold.
But when we arrived at the Laguna, it was still beautiful.
But when we arrived at Laguna Glaciar, it was still beautiful.
Even though you could only see me and not Illampu. The acid test for Huayna Potosí had been passed.
Even though you could only see me and not Illampu. The acid test for Huayna Potosí had been passed.
The Titicaca lake can be seen far back.
The Titicaca lake can be seen far back. Unfortunately, it's a bit hazy.
And this is the wonderful view of Laguna Chillata.
And this is the wonderful view of Laguna Chillata.
Jibu

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