Peru Part II / Cusco, Machu Picchu, Puno & Lake Titicaca

The upcoming tough week couldn't start any 'worse' - night bus from Arequipa to Cusco. Even though 'Cruz del Sur' is extremely comfortable, it can't be compared to a bed. Additionally, the driver wanted to improve his skills as a race driver. He forgot that there were over 40 passengers on the same bus...

Cusco

We arrived in Cusco early in the morning and headed straight to the best café in the whole city - Jack's Café! Amazing quality and fair prices. Since we're talking about food... Mr. Soup offers an extremely large variety of soups and they taste really good. I went there several times :)

We explored the city a bit and visited a large market again. The Mercado San Pedro. This market is huge and has everything - from food to clothes to tours. Since we had a day off before the Inca Trail, we decided to hike to Rainbow Mountain on that day.

Rainbow Mountain

Early bird catches the worm! Our bus picked us up at 4:00 am. We had to drive for three hours to get to the base of the mountain. The roads were partly so narrow that our driver had to honk the horn to warn any oncoming cars during the curves. In a small village called Hanchipacha, we had breakfast before we started the hike. It took us about three hours to reach the top of the mountain. The highest point of the mountain is at an altitude of 5,100 meters! Cusco is already quite high at 3,400 meters, but the hike to Rainbow Mountain was a real battle! Most of our group took a horse right from the beginning. I can tell you, even walking is no fun at this altitude... I also took a horse for the last 20 minutes, before the last 100 meters went almost straight uphill (not accessible by horse). At the top, everyone was exhausted and it was freezing cold. We put on our winter hats and gloves and took the famous pose photos. The way back took about two hours without a horse. This was the toughest hike of my life, but at the same time I could see something of the most beautiful things in my life. By the way, Rainbow Mountain owes its colors to the different minerals that have accumulated over time.

On the same evening, I had to pack my backpack for the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. For the next four days, I had to make 6 kg of clothes, electronics, sleeping bag, snacks, etc. last.

Machu Picchu Inca Trail / Day 1

One of the biggest highlights of my entire trip was about to happen! My legs were really sore because of the hike to Rainbow Mountain. Magnesium and a Voltaren cream helped against the pain. Our tour guide for the Inca Trail, Rumi, came with his assistants Miguel and Raul to the hotel at 8:00 am to pick us up. We had already met them a few days before at the briefing. Important information was given at the briefing and the itinerary for the next four days was explained. Each participant had two bags. The first one was the personal daypack, which had to be carried during the hike itself. It was filled with water, snacks, camera, rain jacket, some warm clothes, and toilet paper. There was no toilet during the hike - we used the Inca toilet (nature). The second bag was the duffel bag. It contained the sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and additional warm clothes for overnight in the tent. These bags were carried by our personal porters (portachones in Quechua). Each of us had two personal porters - UNBELIEVABLE! We didn't really get started until about 9:00 am, because there is a passport control at the entrance.

Total distance: 10 km

Total time: 6 ½ hours

Actual walking time: 3 ½ hours

Elevation: 400 meters

We arrived at the first campsite around 4:00 pm. This first day was extremely easy. We were welcomed at the campsite with a big round of applause - great feeling. Our group also had three personal chefs. The food was always good and their quinoa soup was simply amazing. We went into our tent at around 9:00 pm. It was a 2-person tent. The first night wasn't so cold, so I didn't need my warm clothes. I used my waterproof bag as a pillow.

Machu Picchu Inca Trail / Day 2

Total distance: 12 km

Total time: 6 hours

Actual walking time: 3 ¼ hours

Elevation: 1,100 meters

We were woken up at 5:00 am and had just over 30 minutes to prepare for the day ahead. We had breakfast and started walking at around 7:00 am. The second day was the hardest of the entire Inca Trail. We climbed up to 4,220 meters. The last stretch to the top is called "Dead Woman's Pass" and it could be felt. As soon as we reached the top, we couldn't even enjoy it for 5 minutes, as it started to rain. After not having any rain during the hike on the first day, it now started at the coldest point. We were about an hour away from our next campsite. An hour of pure downhill walking. Despite using hiking poles, I felt the pain in my knees and back. It was still cold at the campsite - we were at an altitude of about 3,700 meters. We celebrated the successful second day with rum tea and went to bed at around 8:00 pm. This time, I wore all my clothes and slept with a hat and scarf.

Machu Picchu Inca Trail / Day 3

Total distance: 16 km

Total time: 8 ¼ hours

Actual walking time: 4 ½ hours

Elevation: many ups and downs

The morning ritual was the same. Wake up, have breakfast, start walking. The third day was the best of all. We walked right through the Amazon and had a wonderful panorama at times. It was raining for the most part, but that didn't bother us. The path on the third day is still exactly as the Incas built it. Although there were some longer downhill sections again, with one of the group (Fred) we ran and jumped down. More people from our group joined us and we laughed so much for the last few hours until we reached the next campsite. We finally arrived at the last campsite around 3:00 pm with stomach cramps. It was warmer here again, so I didn't need the warm clothes. Lights out at 8:00 pm.

Machu Picchu Inca Trail / Day 4

Total distance: 7 km

Total time: 4 ½ hours

Actual walking time: 1 ¼ hours

Elevation: many ups and downs

Today, we started early. We got up at 3:30 am to get to the checkpoint. This checkpoint opens its doors at 5:30 am, so that the Inca Trail groups can pass through. From the checkpoint, it took another hour to reach Machu Picchu. Now I can only say "WOW"! My legs could barely hold me up, but when I saw Machu Picchu, I forgot about the pain. We spent a few hours there and explored the magical place. It was a unique experience that I would repeat anytime (after my legs have recovered J). I can only recommend it to everyone.

On the same day, we returned to Cusco. Time to party! We ordered pizza, got drunk at the hotel with rum or vodka, and went to a salsa club. We partied all night and celebrated our Inca Trail.

Puno

After a day of rest/recovery, we drove to Puno - our last stop in Peru. We sailed on our boat to Lake Titicaca and made a first stop at a floating island. It was incredible to learn how the inhabitants build these islands. Up to four families live on such an island, with up to 7-8 people per house! Later, we sailed to Taquile Island. Our lunch spot was at the top of the island, so we had to climb uphill again. Inca Trail greetings... At the top, we had a very nice view of the lake and could already see Bolivia. We spent one night on an island called Luquina, at a local homestay family. We lived like the locals for a day and helped everywhere. We cooked, fed the animals, and helped with the construction of our host family's new house. This experience made me appreciate what I have at home even more.

Now it's off to Bolivia. However, I will never forget Peru. I really fell in love with this country. If you go to South America, you must visit Peru.