Stage 91: From Yazd to Shiraz

On the same afternoon, I went to the bus station in Yazd, hoping for a spontaneous trip to Shiraz, 400 kilometers away. The ticket was quickly purchased at the counter and cost 700,000 Rial (about €3). The bike posed a bigger problem. I had heard that the bus drivers often demand exorbitant prices from tourists for such luggage. In fact, they wanted 2.5 million Rial for the bike, even though the luggage compartment was almost empty. I didn't agree with that and explained through Google Translate that I didn't have that much money and it couldn't be that the luggage cost almost four times as much as my seat. The concept of Google Translate was a mystery to them and they thought I could read and write Farsi. After some discussion and stubbornness, they allowed me to board without paying anything extra. After about 20 kilometers, it was already dark, which meant dinner time for Muslims, so we took a break. However, the bus driver and his two colleagues exaggerated, which led to an unexpected scene. When the three of them were still chatting outside and it was getting late, one woman got off the bus and scolded them. When that didn't make an impression, a second woman joined in. Although I don't understand Farsi, they were showered with curses, ran into the bus, and immediately drove on. Even minutes later, the second woman loudly scolded the three subdued men, and I couldn't help but grin. I didn't expect that in Iran and found it interesting that at least in this situation, the men, despite all their macho behavior, knew what was good for them.

We finally arrived in Shiraz at 3 o'clock in the morning, and the negotiations entered the second round. I had already packed all my larger bills and dollars into my other wallet to appear more credible. By now, they only wanted one million from me, but I was still annoyed by their first attempt to rip me off and would have had to reveal my second wallet for payment. I gave them 300,000 Rial with the explanation that I could only withdraw money again in Shiraz and that I didn't have any dollars on me. Of course, they didn't believe me because almost every tourist carries a lot of cash with them. They even threatened to take my bike and luggage with them, which I didn't believe. After a total of 20 minutes of intense discussions with three angry Iranians, I was allowed to unload my belongings and they walked away with their 300,000 Rial. Maybe this will help them make a realistic offer to the next tourist, but I'm afraid most people just pay whatever price they quote. It was already 4 o'clock in the morning and my host was naturally thrilled with my ringing when I finally finished assembling my bike and arrived at the accommodation.

Unfortunately, I only had one day in Shiraz, which is much too short for such a beautiful city. The best option was to participate in a Free Walking Tour. After the short night, we started at 10 o'clock without breakfast. I was the only participant, but that didn't seem to be a problem for the guide. We met at the famous 'Pink Mosque', which is named after the strikingly frequent use of the color in the mosaics. Its actual name is Nasir al-Mulk Mosque, but no one can remember that. Not only is the courtyard with its colored mosaics beautiful, especially in the morning the sun shines through colorful glasses into the mosque, making everything colorful. Later, we continued to the Qavam House, also known as Narenjestan House because of its many orange trees in the garden. It was built at the end of the 19th century by the influential Qavam merchant family in Shiraz. In addition to the garden, the rooms with mirrored walls were particularly impressive. Many wall decorations also mix the traditional Persian style with European motifs from the Victorian era. After visiting the beautiful Khan Madrasa, which is still in operation, I said goodbye to my competent guide Moji and needed a nap first. However, a visit to the holy Shah Cheragh Shrine was definitely not to be missed when in Shiraz. Although I didn't have it in mind at the beginning, it was by far the most impressive thing during my short visit. After waiting for a few minutes, you are assigned a free English-speaking guide who watches that you don't enter too holy areas. After all, two brothers of Imam Reza, who are also sons of Imam Musa al-Kadhim, are buried there, which automatically makes the mosque one of the largest sanctuaries in Iran. Especially the huge completely mirrored interior decoration really fascinated me and I couldn't stop marveling. I'm sure I missed a few other sights in Shiraz, but it doesn't have to be the last time.