Etiketa 3 - Von Pedra Furada në São Simoa

So friends, I finally have a real pilgrim feeling again😉 But more on that later...

To escape this crazy heat (even the locals find it extraordinary), we made a great plan yesterday and today we partially implemented it. So we started before sunrise at 05:20 am (!!!) in the dim light, which made finding the arrows even more exciting😉 Last year I really didn't understand why one should be on the road that early, but this year it's almost the only option🙈 Those who know me a little better also know that I am not an early riser🙈

With the cool temperatures, walking was much easier and we made good progress🏃🏻‍♀️ Even without breakfast or coffee, because at this time absolutely nothing is open😖 But the sunrise and the beautiful light, combined with a wonderful environment, more than made up for the short night and the lack of breakfast😍 So we walked on the road and along field paths to Barcelinhos and then on to Barcelos, which we reached at 07:15 am after 11 km. Hardly anyone (not even pilgrims) was on the road and so we had another special experience. In Barcelos we wanted to have breakfast and then quickly go to the pharmacy, but at this early hour nothing was open...😖🥴 So we were almost out of town again when we finally found a small café for a café con leche and a croissant. Indescribable how good that felt...🤤

We then continued to Portela de Tamel, which was also our destination for today. Last year, this was my horror stage, but this year I was quite optimistic. Shortly after leaving the town, we met Lucca - as the name suggests, from Nuremberg 😜 - and so we continued together as a group of three. A short break for coffee and a soda and we tackled the climb to Tamel💪🏻 Based on what the others told me last year, I had a rough idea of what to expect and it turned out to be true - the ascent is steady and steep at the end. It is 11am and after 16.6 km we have arrived at our planned destination for today in Tamel. But what do you do here, especially since the hostel doesn't open until 2pm?🧐 You call the hostel 11 km away and ask for 3 beds for the night🤦🏻‍♀️ They actually still have exactly three beds and for about 1 second I feel guilty because I snatch them away from my table neighbor (Karma? He had tried before, only reached the voicemail and was now a bit annoyed😬🤷🏻‍♀️). But it only lasts a short time for both of us (thank God, he also has three beds now) and so the good spirit on the way is safe again😁

So we tackle the "lazy" 11 km - it's less than this morning and should be doable with a lunch break👍🏻 But the calculation simply doesn't work on this year's Camino...🙄 The first 3-4 km are fine, but then the sun burns mercilessly again and, as yesterday, there is not a single place to stop for lunch on the rest of the way. Somewhere in a village that we pass through, we simply collapse for a short rest in the shade🥵 A fortunate coincidence, because Anne from Berlin catches up with us there and now the four of us set off for the “ante room to hell”😉🙈 The path is long, shade is scarce, and our water supplies are now better suited for a hot bath than a refreshing drink...🤭🥴 At the well-known Casa Fernanda, we rest again in the shade and get fresh water (Fernanda is incredibly nice! She and I chat a bit and she can hardly believe that Sandra and I are mastering this route on such a hot day), so that we can now tackle the last km of the day. After about 26 km, we have reached our destination and can truly be proud👍🏻😊 Anne still has to walk another 1.2 km to her hostel, but we will probably meet again tomorrow somewhere on the way or at the latest in Ponte de Lima, our next destination.

Our hostel is simple but very cozy and after a shower and the obligatory laundry, we have a well-deserved beer in an extended round. It's wonderful on the Camino - a can of beer for €1 and I am fully satisfied🤣🤪

Now we have dinner with the other pilgrims. There are a total of 8 of us - Ute and Klemens, Hermann from Holland, another couple, and the three of us. It's a meal in a very nice group - just as I'm used to from last year😊

With this, I'm closing for tonight and I'm sure that despite the 5-bed room, we will sleep well tonight.

Good night, my loves, and see you tomorrow😘

PS: Not only dinner gave me a pilgrim feeling, but my feet are increasingly giving it to me too🙈😅 oh well...