Tour to Coba & Merida (25.02.2022)

We got up early today as we had a long day planned. Just after 08:00, we left our lovely apartment heading towards Coba, which is about 60 minutes away. Coba is a village with an ancient Mayan archaeological site. Our timing was good as we arrived around 09:15 and were well ahead of the large crowds of tourists. You could tell from the entrance, the infrastructure, the parking areas, and the barriers that they were hardly used at our time of arrival.

After paying an entrance fee of around 12 €, we entered the area on foot. Alternatively, you can borrow bicycles or even ride in a two-seater bicycle taxi provided by the loud and eager "bicycle taxi drivers" offering their services at the entrance. The locals are generally friendly, but it can get annoying when every other person tries to sell you a tour, transport, or souvenirs. This is something you should expect at the major Maya attractions here in Yucatan. The area itself is very extensive and is said to have covered a total area of around 70km2, with settlements dating back to the high period of 600-800 AD. However, this is not a contiguous settlement area, but rather a scattered zone with the temple complexes at its center. The Nohoch Mul Pyramid is basically the highlight of the site and has 120 steps reaching a height of 42m. At the top of the pyramid, there is a ritual room where blood sacrifices were presumably made to the gods. Unfortunately, climbing to the top via the stairs is no longer allowed, probably because of Corona... ahem.

Afterwards, we drove for about 3 hours and 220 km to Merida, the capital of the Yucatan region. At this point, the road network deserves praise for being straight and of good quality (almost no potholes) throughout the country. However, the panorama is somewhat bleak, with dense bushes and relatively flat trees stretching for kilometers on both sides. Only a few small villages break up the scenery occasionally, although nothing particularly memorable stands out to us along this route.

Merida has over 900,000 inhabitants and has experienced significant growth in recent years. What immediately catches the eye, even when just passing through, are the many colorful and flat houses that become more prevalent closer to the city center. The Spanish colonial style is clearly visible in numerous buildings, especially around the main squares. Our hotel, the Viva Merida Boutique Hotel (https://www.vivameridahotel.com/), initially seemed unremarkable but revealed its extreme charm once we entered and saw the spacious courtyard surrounded by the rooms. After arriving, we strolled through the city and quickly agreed that for the first time on this trip to Mexico, we had landed in an authentic part of the country. The markets and squares were bustling with colorful activity, but with much more charm and lower prices compared to the coast. It is evident that this city has grown slowly and was already conquered and adapted by the Spaniards in the 16th century, much to the detriment of the Maya. Nevertheless, Maya culture is omnipresent in the tourist offerings, especially in activities and souvenirs.

While strolling around, we often struck up conversations with locals (primarily so they could sell us something, but it was all in good spirit). As a highlight, when asked where we come from, after Austria, someone mentioned "ah, Toni Polster" and told us stories about their relatives visiting Linz and Vienna. After a short rest at the hotel, we dressed up because we had plans to celebrate Kathi R.'s 30th birthday at "Kuuk" (http://www.kuukrestaurant.com/), one of the top restaurants in the city. We were not disappointed and enjoyed a 10-course tasting menu with wine pairing. The menu focused on the culinary treasures of the Yucatan Peninsula in a very creative way and challenged us a bit with certain courses. Nevertheless, it was a great experience that we can recommend, especially because at the end, we were given a tour of all parts of the restaurant (from the kitchen to the wine cellar) and got to immerse ourselves in its philosophy. With the culinary (and alcoholic) delights, it was a fitting end to a diverse day.

The daily double:

Insight: How does a Mexican combat excessive spiciness on their lips and palate? They hand you a packet of sugar. This happened at Johannes in Merida at lunchtime when the jalapeno pepper turned out to be too hot. Even a small amount of sugar, which is typically used for coffee or tea, quickly eases the pain. Many thanks to the attentive service.

Moment of joy:

The culinary highlight courses combined with exciting wine variations at the Kuuk restaurant.