Day 27 - Aquarium and continuation to the Vesterålen

Originally, a hike was scheduled for today, but firstly, we have almost a storm today, a freezing wind is blowing around us, and secondly, the situation with my knee has actually worsened rather than improved. For these reasons, we decide to drive back to Kabelvåg and visit the Lofoten Aquarium there.

Here you can only see native marine creatures, such as salmon, wolf fish, cod, various crustaceans like lobster, pocket crabs, and king crabs, mollusks like snails and mussels, as well as echinoderms (starfish, sea urchins, etc.). Upstairs, there is information about Norway as the third largest exporter of fish and seafood. It is repeatedly emphasized how sustainable and mindful the Norwegian fishing industry is in harmony with the ecosystem. This all sounds good in itself, but how much of it is typical PR talk and what does reality look like? Unfortunately, I am currently unable to assess this due to lack of information.

After the aquarium, we make a stop at the Vågan Church. This is the largest wooden church north of Trondheim and is also called the Lofoten Cathedral because of its space for about 1200 worshipers. The neo-Gothic exterior is very impressive, but unfortunately, we are denied access to the interior. Apparently, churches in Norway are not constantly open to the public.

After the short church intermezzo, our journey continues. At this point, we say goodbye to the Lofoten Islands. There is a touch of sadness because they are exceptionally beautiful and we have only been able to explore a fraction of them. We continue to the Vesterålen Islands, a region and part of an island group north of the Lofoten Islands. As always in Norway, the drive there is an experience in itself. It is always exciting to see how quickly the landscape changes, how light, rain, and sun alternate in short periods of time, and also how the Norwegians have built, blasted, and excavated roads in this largely inhospitable landscape. During the car ride, I keep making mental notes of places that I would like to explore in more detail during a future visit. The list is now almost endless.

At the end of the day, we arrive at Forfjord north of Sortland and set up our camp at a very idyllic camping site. The weather is finally as we would have liked it more often during this vacation. Almost cloudless, almost warm, no cold wind anymore. However, we are plagued by another annoyance that we have been spared so far due to the bad weather. Hundreds of tiny mosquitoes swarm around us and soon populate the interior of our car as well. They seem to have an especially strong attraction to Janina, but they leave me relatively undisturbed. Another excuse not to cook for ourselves today but to treat ourselves to a meal at the campsite restaurant. There are local specialties, which is good for me but rather disappointing for Janina because the menu only offers fish and meat dishes besides salad. Upon request, however, they do have a vegetarian dish for her. I finally decide to try a dish with stockfish and choose Bacalao with chorizo and potatoes in bechamel sauce. It is quite tasty, but not outstanding enough to become my favorite. At the tables next to us, someone orders something with elk and whale. The former can still be tolerated as long as the population is protected, but the latter causes strong displeasure for my girlfriend. Norway has objected to the moratorium on whaling and allows its fishermen to catch up to 1200 minke whales, although this species is also classified as endangered. Considering Norway's wealth from oil, gas, tourism, and hydroelectric power, this highly subsidized practice by the state can at least be seen as paradoxical. In any case, the schizophrenia of his actions does not seem to bother the family father next to us, who was just telling his daughter something about whales and probably returning from a whale safari in Andenes.