Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu

Just traveling for a day trip to Machu Picchu was not an option for us, and the traditional 4-day Inca Trail had to be booked months in advance. So we decided to do the 5-day Salkantay Trek, which could be booked just 2 days beforehand. On the evening before the start, we had a brief briefing with our guide Steven and the other group members, and we were also given our duffel bags. We were allowed to carry 6 kg of our luggage in these bags. The bags were transported from camp to camp by horses during the trek, so we didn't have to carry so much weight in our own backpack.

Day 1: Early in the morning at 5:10 am, we left the agency by bus towards the starting point of the hike to Soraypampa at an altitude of 3900 m. Our group of 14 people was internationally composed (Brazil, USA, Holland, England, Germany, Spain) and our guide Steven gave us the name 'Fast Potatoes'.

We climbed steeply up the hill for almost 2 hours until we reached Humantay Lake at 4250 m. But as often, the effort was worth it and we were rewarded with a great view of the lake and the surrounding mountains. After a break, we headed back down to the valley. Fortunately, Bianca and I had rented hiking poles, which made the whole run much easier. After another 20 minutes, we reached our first camp Quiswarniyoc at 4000 m around noon. Since temperatures drop below freezing at night, we were accommodated in wind-protected huts. Nevertheless, at night we almost slept in full gear with several layers of clothing, gloves, and a hat in our sleeping bags to avoid freezing.

Day 2: The next day, we had to get up early again. I didn't feel well in the morning, my stomach had been protesting all night, so sleep was out of the question. With a little tea in my stomach, we started the strenuous 8 km uphill climb to Salkantay Pass at 4360 m. I somehow dragged myself up the mountain for the first 2 hours, but then I couldn't go any further. Our guide Steven organized a horse for me for the last stretch to the pass. Once at the top of the pass, we took a break and group photos and enjoyed the view. We were lucky with the weather, it was windy and icy, but fortunately also very sunny. Fortunately, from the pass, it was downhill. After a short detour to a turquoise lake, we had lunch after 2 hours, well, at least for those without stomach problems. After another 3 hours through a finally denser vegetation, along the river, we happily arrived at our second camp Chawllay at 2900 m in the afternoon. For a small extra charge, there were hot showers, Wi-Fi, and beer. The tents were housed in a shelter, and fortunately, it wasn't cold at night anymore. My stomach was slowly getting better.

Day 3: Today, the part of the group that had chosen the 5-day option had the shortest and easiest stage on the plan, only 16 km in 5 hours. The path led through the forest along the river, up and down, but mostly downhill almost to Santa Teresa, to the next camp. Unfortunately, we were attacked by really nasty mosquitoes here, or rather bitten. Shortly before Santa Teresa, we were picked up by vans and taken to the camp. After lunch, we had to say goodbye to a part of the group, some had chosen the 4-day option and had to continue one day ahead of us to Aguas Calientes, the starting point for Machu Picchu. The rest of the group could relax in the nearby thermal baths in the afternoon until we were all wrinkled.

Day 4: Today, we had to get up early again. After breakfast, we took a van to the starting point of today's hike at 2000 m. After a short visit to a small coffee farm, we climbed steadily uphill for 2 hours to the summit of Llactapapa at an altitude of 2700 m. Since we no longer had any problems with altitude here, we marched up the mountain at a good pace. Once again, the effort was worth it: when we reached the top, we could catch a first glimpse of Machu Picchu in the distance, which increased the anticipation for the next day. We then had to climb down the mountain for the next 2-3 hours until we reached Hidroelektrika, a small village at the beginning of the railway to Aguas Calientes. After lunch, we walked along the tracks for another 3 hours in the heat until we reached Aguas Calientes. Every now and then, a train came by, honking loudly and quite close to us. Everyone, even our guide, was pretty exhausted and struggled the last few meters to the hostel.

After dinner, Bianca and I decided not to walk to Machu Picchu the next morning but to take the bus instead. Bianca had a slight cold and my insect bites were painful and swollen.

Day 5: Finally, the day had come... After 4 exhausting trekking days, we went to Machu Picchu. We knew we had to get up at 3:20 am to be in the front of the line for the bus. At exactly 5:15 am, we were on the first bus to the entrance. There we met the rest of the group who had managed the strenuous hike up to Machu Picchu on foot. Getting up early was worth it, we could take beautiful photos of Machu Picchu in the rising sun right at the beginning, without any visitors, and walk around the site peacefully. After a short tour with Steven, we had enough time to explore the site on our own. However, shortly after, there were so many people there that it became exhausting, and we started our retreat back to Aguas Calientes.

Since our train didn't depart until 6:20 pm back to Cusco, we spent the afternoon in Aguas Calientes with food, coffee, ice cream, cake, and more food. We had earned it after all.