Nela, nela

Slowly, slowly - that was the motto of our seven-day hike from Mestia to Ushguli. The classic route of this region can be completed in three to four stages. We were clear that we would follow our credo again, that our goal is not to go higher, faster, further, but rather to take the time to take sufficient breaks and thus experience the landscape and encounters intensively.

Right at the beginning of the hike, we had already lost every chance of setting a time record: we got completely lost! We knew that we were walking on a lower path parallel to the official hiking trail and were hoping for a cross-connection. Unfortunately, it didn't come. Instead, the path turned into a beaten track and even this slowly disappeared in a meadow. We quickly gave up trying to go cross-country and had to bite the bullet and turn back. This also proved to be not so easy, as the beaten track we followed was not so easy to find on the way back. The whole thing took place within sight - separated only by a river - of a village and under the bewildered gaze of some cows, so we felt mainly foolish but never really lost. After several attempts and unnecessary meters of altitude, we found the right beaten track and returned to our starting point - to start anew four hours later.

However, we were compensated for this little detour in the evening. We did not reach our planned stage destination and had to find a place to stay for the night in another small village, Ieli. Since this village is not on the usual hiking route, we were prepared for anything - except for what awaited us. A generous room and a private dining room with panoramic windows in the old Soviet style and a fantastic view of the Shkhara massif, the highest mountain in Georgia. In addition, we had the best dinner in all of Svaneti and an extra portion of homemade yogurt for Antonia. We quickly discarded our plan to start very early in the morning without breakfast and also enjoyed breakfast and the view the next day.

After this late start on our next hiking day, the question arose at noon whether to abandon our stage destination again and stay in the idyllic village of Tsvirmi after only two hours of hiking or to continue for at least six more hours to the next village. The decision was quickly made and we settled in with a family with two daughters and their cousin. The three girls were naturally thrilled with Antonia and played with her for half the afternoon - while we watched 'Home Alone' on TV. The family was so nice that we even forgave them for the saggy beds and the mice in the bedroom.

Even though the family didn't want to let us go the next day, we set off early and now encountered the most traveled part of the long-distance hiking trail. At first, we were somewhat disappointed, as we had expected more than a 5 km long steep ascent along a dusty jeep track. The drivers and passengers waved friendly, but our motivation sank with each passing car. Hitchhiking was not an option. However, the descent rewarded us for our efforts: on narrow paths across meadows, through low forests and occasionally through a small stream, we enjoyed the view of the snow-covered peaks of the surrounding area.

After the night in the village of Adishi, we learned to appreciate the accommodations of the previous nights even more. In the village overflowing with tourists, the locals did not miss any opportunity to take money from us. On the other hand, the conversations with the other guests were a welcome change. On the next stage, we had to cross a river. It originated directly from the Adishi Glacier and probably had the lowest temperature that water can have in liquid form. After observing and discussing whether we should turn back again, we gratefully accepted the offer to cross the river on horseback. This was Antonia's first time on the back of a horse.

The strenuous days, the sun, and the altitude took their toll: since both of us didn't feel well the following night (fortunately Antonia stayed fit!), we decided to stay in the village of Iprali for now. We were warmly welcomed and took care of ourselves. Because the family was so nice and the guesthouse was very comfortable, we stayed another night. Parting almost brought tears, but we moved on and made our way to the final stage to Ushguli. We took the off-road vehicle back to Mestia within two hours. Antonia enjoyed the 'dancing road', although in the end it became too much for her and the three of us were happy when we arrived in Mestia. The driver was once again a prime example of Georgian child friendliness: on the way, he stopped at a kiosk to buy himself a cola - and brought a Fanta for Antonia.

After the impressive days and the successful start to our journey, we leave the Greater Caucasus behind us and head to the spa town of Borjomi in the Lesser Caucasus. We are excited about what awaits us there, but first, we enjoy two more days of hospitality and wine from Mediko and Suliko.