Week 5 - Tanzania

Sunday, December 23, 2018

We were picked up at 8:30 in the morning and driven to the city to pick up our new travel companions. Not only are most of the fellow travelers new, but also the truck we will be traveling south with. Not as new and modern anymore.

After a short stop at a shop, we left the hustle and bustle of Nairobi behind and traveled south. Regular readers of our blog probably know by now that our trips are often interrupted by breakdowns, and this time was no exception. A flat tire forced us to take a 1-hour break in the blazing sun. Minus a spare tire and minus one long pants from Cédric (the physical exertion caused them to burst...). We crossed the border into Tanzania near Namanga. However, this border crossing turned out to be very complicated. At the first counter, the yellow fever vaccination certificate had to be shown. Second counter: Kenya exit stamp. Third counter: Submit the completed Tanzania entry form. Fourth counter: The visa receipt form is handed over and the passport is collected. With the receipt form, you walk through the entire building to reach the next counter. At the fifth counter, you pay the $50 visa fee and the receipt is stamped. With the stamped receipt, you go back to the counter where you submitted the passport. Hand in the receipt and wait for the stamped passport. Of course, each counter has a long queue.

In the evening, we arrived at our campsite in Arusha.

Monday, December 24, 2018

After a short stop at a shop and another real cappuccino in a coffee shop, we went to the cultural museum where various paintings and other handmade items are exhibited and partly offered for sale. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time. The whole area is beautifully designed and we could have stayed longer. But we had to go back to the campsite. Since our campsite was also a snake park, we took a guided tour. The snake park is the only place in the area that provides free anti-venom for snake bites. In Maasai villages, it is common for poisonous snakes to hide unnoticed in the dark huts, as it is dry there, and people get bitten.

After lunch, we met our local guides and got into 4x4 vehicles. They are ideal for safari use, with the roof hatch that can be opened.

From Arusha, we drove through the Maasai town of Mtu Wa Mbu, which borders Lake Manyara National Park, and then up the Rift Valley Escarpment to the higher situated village of Karatu where we spent the night.

Tuesday, December 25, 2018

On Christmas morning, we set off early for the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. The Ngorongoro Crater is also called the 'Garden of Eden.' It is the largest unbroken, unflooded caldera in the world. The weather was great and we saw many animals. Lions, elephants, ostriches, buffalos, zebras, and many birds. Soon we realized that we hit the jackpot with our guide Lawrence. Unlike all the other guides of the other vehicles, he knew incredibly much about animals, Africa, and the population. We had our packed lunch at a waterhole with a view of hippos. Unfortunately, we had to eat our food inside the car. Black kites swooped down and snatched the bread rolls from our hands.

In the afternoon, we left the Ngorongoro Crater and drove to the Serengeti National Park. It was exactly during this time that the famous 'Great Migration' took place. Millions of wildebeests migrate between the two reserves, Masai Mara and Serengeti, in search of green, succulent grass. A very special sight. We drove on the kilometers-long, straight road. As far as the eye could see, there was only a flat, green grassland on both sides of the road. And on this huge green area, there were unbelievably many zebras and wildebeests. Animals as far as the eye could see. We drove for about 45 minutes at 100 km/h on the gravel road, passing through the huge herds.

We spent the afternoon observing wildlife in the Serengeti. Another highlight shortly before sunset. Finally, we spotted the elusive leopard in a treetop. And on the way to the camp, we even encountered a herd of elephants grazing right next to the road.

According to our travel documentation, we were promised a night in the middle of the Serengeti. Without washing facilities and fencing. We were a little disappointed when we arrived at the campsite. There were already about 50 other tents and it was a huge chaos. Garbage was everywhere. There was a toilet and shower building, and even a dining hall where dinner was served in a mass production-like manner. It was not how we imagined it. The night was pleasant. Except for the hyenas, we didn't hear or see any animals. The beautiful starry sky made us feel a little more reconciled.

Wednesday, December 26, 2018

In the morning, we set off for another game drive before sunrise. At a small river, we saw about ten giraffes. We also observed lions with two cubs from about 10 meters away. However, we still hadn't seen a cheetah on our wildlife observation list. As we were already on our way back from the national park, we spotted one. It was quite far away, but very visible through the binoculars. A female cheetah with two cubs. We had lunch at the park exit and then drove through the Ngorongoro Crater and its rim with its green hills and Maasai villages back to Arusha. We arrived in Arusha in pouring rain and set up our tent.

Thursday, December 27, 2018

Two more days of driving were ahead of us. The first leg was from Arusha to Korogwe. A city halfway between Arusha and Dar es Salaam. The landscape changes frequently during the drive. Near Moshi, we were lucky to see the snow-covered peak of Mount Kilimanjaro through the clouds. We passed huge sisal plantations and had a great view of the Usambara Mountains. We saw palm trees and rivers along the roadside and finally arrived in Korogwe after ten hours. Another campsite where the shower tap can only be operated with a towel, or else it gives you an electric shock...

To the delight of everyone, Malinga once again cooked mashed potatoes with beef stroganoff for dinner. It's always a mystery to all of us how he can cook so well with the very basic camp kitchen.

Friday, December 28, 2018

We continued at 6:30 in the morning. We had to arrive in Dar es Salaam in the afternoon at the latest so that Hesbon, our guide, could pick up the ferry tickets. The drive was a torture towards the end. The traffic in Dar es Salaam, combined with the hot, stuffy air, was tough for us. But we made it at 3:00 in the afternoon. Our campsite is right by the sea. We didn't want to miss this opportunity. However, the water was incredibly dirty, so I changed my mind again. We spent the rest of the afternoon with the others at the bar. Later, at dinner, we welcomed our new fellow travelers.