Chapter IX - Milford Sound × Te Anau

After our unique but also exhausting ski trip, we definitely want to drive to Milford Sound to relax and enjoy the sun.

From our spot, it's not far to the most famous fiord of the Fiordland National Park, next to Doubtful Sound. At the end of the Homer Tunnel, which is only one lane and not in good condition, the sea is already in sight. Along a winding road, we descend into the fiord itself. On the way, we encounter some buses and cars coming towards us, which have fortunately already started their journey back. This means that we can escape the extreme tourist hustle and bustle that usually prevails in Milford Sound, regardless of the weather.

The Mitre Peak is the most photographed and tagged mountain in the world and stands out upon arrival at the car park. It doesn't take long to realize why this fiord is rightfully known as the 'eighth wonder of the world'. It definitely deserves that title. The surrounding mountains with their (still) white peaks are simply impressive, with the sea right at their feet. On the water, there are still a few tour boats and private yachts, but not as many as expected. (In Europe, this spot would surely be crowded with luxury yachts) There are also a few sporadic sightseeing planes still circling around the Mitre Peak, before heading back to a small airstrip that is not far from the sea. Apart from the small harbor and a cafe, hostel, and campsite, there are not many facilities at Milford Sound itself. Ultimately, we can be very glad about that. Luckily, we are in the middle of one of the largest nature reserves in New Zealand, so the tourists don't even think about settling here or building a house. There is no cell phone reception here anyway, and currently, very few people live here, either working on one of the boats or planes - otherwise, you are in the middle of nowhere.

We walk along the beach from the car park until we find a comfortable spot and settle down. We simply enjoy the impressive scenery, let the impressions sink in, and try to relax and regenerate. This place is perfect for that after such a day. With time, the last tour boat returns to the small harbor, the last bus disappears, and it becomes really quiet. We enjoy every moment at the foot of the fiord and watch the sun slowly disappear behind the mountains. The last rays of the sun offer another great photo opportunity, if you don't already have enough photos on the camera. With the sunset, it is time for us to leave this beautiful place. It hurts a little because you would prefer to stay here forever. But one thing is certain, I will go there again.

After being able to sleep in properly the next morning, we decide to take advantage of the good weather and head to Tutoko Valley, which lies between Homer Tunnel and Milford Sound. The goal is to catch a glimpse of Mount Tutoko from there, which is one of the highest and most spectacular in Fiordland, with almost 2500 meters, due to its ice around the summit. But the path through the valley turns out to be anything but easy. Never been in a jungle like that before, we hitchhike for almost 3 hours on a barely maintained path, which crosses several rivers and puddles. The ground is very wet and slippery. But the nature is impressive and everything is very green, and the plants have a special character. When we found our way through the jungle, we arrive at the bush line with wet shoes. And behold, it was really worth taking on the tough and sometimes difficult path. The Tutoko stretches right in front of us for several thousand meters and is still completely covered in snow. But the surrounding mountains, which can only be seen from the air, are also impressive and appear quite high since we are almost at sea level. We enjoy the view here by the river, which has found its way through the valley from the glaciers. After a relaxed afternoon, we return the entire trekking path through the valley, which is really exhausting to cross. After a short stop at the Chasm Falls, we head back through the Homer Tunnel towards Te Anau.

During our arrival, we only saw a small part of the town in the dark, which is beautifully located on Lake Te Anau. Now, on the way back, we want to make a longer stop and spend a few days there. We relax by the lake for some time and enjoy the already spring-like conditions. The world-famous Kepler Track also starts not far from the center, just a short 10-minute drive outside at a car park. But we decide not to do the whole route, which usually takes 3 overnight stays, but only to do the first part. There, we walk along the lake for quite a while before the path slowly starts to climb and we reach the tree line. From there, we finally get a real view of Lake Te Anau, which looks much bigger from above than from the viewpoints on the road below. Above the tree line, we quickly reach the Luxmore Hut, from where you have a great view of the region and the lake. The hut is modern and can accommodate many people. This is necessary because the track is very popular, especially among Asians. We encounter some of them already on the first part, who can hardly carry their backpack and equipment anymore due to climbing. Many underestimate the trail and have to turn back. We spend the afternoon at the hut and enjoy the view. Then we make our way back, which we complete a bit faster, but still it takes a whole day for this part. We are lucky with the weather, as the next few days are forecasted to be rainy again, which is more typical for the Fiordland instead of sunshine.

After another day in the town, we have the idea to drive from Te Anau to the sea in the south. On the way, we pass the lakes Manapouri and Monowai, where some fishermen and locals are out on their boats. After a good two hours drive, we arrive at Te Waewae Bay, where Monkey Island is also located. A small island that you can walk to at low tide and should leave again before the tide returns. Before Orepuki, we camp one night directly on the beach and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. On the next day, we head back to Te Anau, where the car is now ready with a new spark plug after the repair, to slowly start the journey back to Kaioura.