Aqtau - No space on the train to the east

On Friday, August 30, 2019, I have breakfast with Melanie and Jeoffrey on the beach in Aqtau before we break camp and make our way along the promenade. We are accompanied by Aki, a young Kazakh who appears at our tent city and apparently has nothing better to do. After a coffee at a nearby supermarket, Aki takes us to some caves located slightly south in the cliffs of the Caspian Sea. Then we head back towards the city center, where we meet Markus, who spent the night in a hotel, and inquire about train tickets to the east. Until September 19, all trains are full. The holiday season seems to be coming to an end and many Kazakhs need to travel to Almaty for work, study, or learning. On the way back to the beach, we also meet our two cyclists again. Anna and Pablo have now covered the nearly 90 km from Kuryk to Aqtau and are taking a break at a small snack bar. Then we walk together through the city, which was built in the fifties and therefore bears witness to the real existing socialism. Wide streets are lined with panel-like residential buildings. Back at our campsite, we set up our camp, go swimming, and prepare a small dinner. Afterwards, we take a detour to the nearby stage on the promenade. It is Constitution Day in Kazakhstan and there is a festive atmosphere. We meet a friend of Aki's who still doesn't leave our side. Upon the initiative of Amanbek and Aki, after the live music ends, we make a detour to an empty beach section in the south of the city. The purpose is not quite clear. Then we return to the tent camp and go to bed.

Saturday also starts with breakfast on the beach. Then we pack up our tents and go for a coffee at the City-Supermarket. The coffee vendor is well prepared for our visit, remembers our order from the previous day, and serves Rango a sausage sandwich after consulting with me. Meanwhile, Aki has found us again. After another attempt to buy train tickets that confirms the sobering result from the previous day, we look for alternatives. For the four of us (Melanie, Markus, Jeoffrey, and me), buying a car seems to be an option. We research a few offers and can look at an Audi 80 later that afternoon. Quite a wreck. Even a thorough wash, which the car was subjected to upon arrival, doesn't change that impression. The water runs out of the radiator faster than we can top it up, and the gear shifting feels rather stubborn. We could have accepted the lack of interior trim and door handles. Then we look for accommodation for the evening, but end up camping at our beach spot again. After dinner, we go to the stage again, as live music is on again. Today, it seems to be in honor of the oil and gas workers. Aki also leaves us and we go to bed.

On Sunday morning (September 1, 2019), after dismantling our camp, we go to our coffee supermarket and have breakfast in front of the establishment with a hot drink. Since Rango limped heavily at the campsite and on the short way to the coffee shop, I look for a shady spot for him and leave my backpack and some water with him. Then we go to the nearest police station. We want to inquire about the conditions under which we can buy and use a car in Kazakhstan. The guys at the station are somewhat overwhelmed with the task, but at least they can show us where to get the necessary information. Then we go to see a Lada that is for sale nearby. The car has a flat tire, so it is not an option as a test drive is impossible. Afterwards, we look for accommodation again for the coming night. Especially Jeoffrey seems to be concerned about this. As it turns out later, the man can only do his business in a pleasant atmosphere, and his visit to the last cozy place seems to have been quite a while ago. Reminds me a bit of Stiffler. So in the afternoon, we move into an apartment in one of the many rental barracks. Aki, who is with us again, has helped us a bit with that. Apart from a few insects, the place is quite acceptable. While the rest of us relax, I go with Aki to Rango and my backpack, which requires some persuasion / insistence to get the man out of our place. The Dicke (Rango) is doing fine so far, and the backpack is still in its place. Unfortunately, Rango is still running unevenly, and his left front leg is a bit swollen. So on the way back to the apartment, we take a break in a shady beer garden before I can leave Rango and the backpack in the apartment. In the meantime, Aki goes to get laundry detergent as he wants to use our rented washing machine in the evening. With Melanie, Jeoffrey, and Markus, we then go to the bazaar to look for possible cars. Unfortunately, it is getting late, and most of the dealers have already left the market. But not far away, we can look at a Moskvich that is being offered on an online platform. The car doesn't make a bad impression, except for the missing ignition lock, partly missing interior trim, and door handles, everything seems to work fine. The car runs on gas and petrol, and the test drive is not completely discouraging either. We can negotiate the price down by 50,000 tenge for the time being, but we leave the scene without buying. Maybe there will be other options. Then, after some shopping, we return to the apartment. To everyone's surprise, Aki is waiting for us there. The man has decided to do laundry even without us (I let him know that we are on the go again and that I will contact him when he can come to do the laundry) and has found a spare key somewhere. I take the key from him and make it clear that it is time for him to leave. It sounded like he cursed at us a bit, but otherwise he resigns to his fate. Then we have dinner, do laundry, and go to bed exhausted.

Monday morning, shortly after breakfast, we are visited by two young women who want to fine us because of Rango, maybe Aki is involved in this. I close the door again for now, we pack our stuff and then leave the quarters. Jeoffrey wasn't quite happy with the place anyway and has already organized a replacement. So after a coffee break at our supermarket, we can move into a new apartment near the coast. From the outside, both the building and the hallway are not very inviting, but the apartment itself looks very clean and well-maintained, a real improvement. Then we meet with Markus and go to the traffic police. After some persistence, an officer takes care of our problem and informs himself about various options. In the end, it seems that our way to our own vehicle leads through a power of attorney. We just need a local resident to register or keep the car registered in their name since we don't have a permanent address in Kazakhstan. A staff member at the traffic authority spontaneously offers to help us with that. Quite crazy. So we return to the city well-informed and go to the next notary to check the costs for such a power of attorney. Then it is time for a coffee in our new home with a sea view. Just to be safe, we visit a second notary that is half as expensive as the first one, but otherwise the visit doesn't bring any new insights. In the evening, we have a small training session on the beach promenade before we enjoy the dinner prepared by Melanie and Jeoffrey and end the evening in our apartment.

On Tuesday morning (September 3, 2019), I go for a walk around the block with Rango and Markus. The Dicke (Rango) is still running unevenly and has a swollen leg, which I have to continue cooling throughout the day. On the way back, we take a break for a coffee before we can check out another car in front of the apartment building. The Lada is in pretty good condition, only the gear shifting is uncomfortable for Markus. It seems to me that it's just a matter of getting used to it, as I manage quite well. Unfortunately, the man leaves the parking lot during the price negotiation. Perhaps our last offer offended him. Then I drop off Rango at our apartment, take care of his leg, and then go with my two-legged companions to the 22nd microdistrict of Aktau. There is supposedly an affordable Lada that we still want to see. Time is running out a bit, as Melanie and Jeoffrey want to be in Almaty by September 9th in order to apply for a visa for their train journey through Russia in time. We have already arranged a meeting with the owners of the Moskvich in the afternoon to create a power of attorney for the car. When we arrive at the garage in the 22nd microdistrict, we receive the bad news that the car can only be inspected in the evening. Too late for us. So we spend the afternoon leisurely going to the notary. On-site, the family who currently owns the Moskvich AZLK 2141 has to be convinced once again to agree to the power of attorney. Since the notary cannot fully convince them either, we have to go to the Avto Zona again. Melanie and Jeoffrey return to the apartment. In the office, we meet the employee from the previous day again, who can dispel the sellers' concerns. Back at the notary, the power of attorney is issued, and we can take possession of the car for 250,000 tenge. We are accompanied to an insurance broker, purchase an insurance policy, and then drive back to the apartment in the Moskvich. There, Rango is waiting with our two French friends, and to celebrate the occasion, we have coffee and cookies. In the evening, I take another walk with Rango and use the training area on the beach promenade again. After a shared dinner, we go to bed early as we want to head east on Wednesday morning. We have already found a name for our new ride. Schrotti seems to be an appropriate nickname for the car.