Byatangajwe: 02.11.2019
We've dreamt about it, but never really thought we would actually do it. The famous offroad track through the desert from Merzouga to Zagora is a challenge. At the key section, the Qued Rheris, we read that the sand is particularly fine. The offroad gurus even have a name for it: 'Fechfech'. It's a long stretch, with the kids and the proximity to the border of Algeria not to be forgotten.
On the eve in Merzouga at the campsite... should we, or should we not? We're torn, can't decide. Curiosity eventually wins, worst case we simply turn around. In Morocco, you have time, in Europe, you have the clock.
We pack, stock up on everything (water, food, diesel) and head south. The traffic thins out quickly... once again the landscape impresses us incredibly. But I'm nervous, very nervous, until we're through this river bed, I won't know if my indigestion is from last night's meal or from discomfort.
So far, the route is manageable with our VW T6 4x4 with DSG. Eventually, we arrive in Remlia. As we read, the first young moped rider dashes towards us, trying to 'help' us (apparently they lead you on detours through the Qued and then demand a hefty payment). Even though we keep the windows closed, I understand exactly what he's saying: Our car is 'too small'. Martin is not as easily impressed as I am, he just keeps driving. Now we're in the Qued, the sand is barely sand, more like dust. Martin deflates the tires to about 1.5 bar.
FechFech
We see that not only the moped rider, but also a jeep is following us, so we decide that at the moment, we neither speak French nor English and are therefore only silently observed. Eventually, the dry river bed comes, going down is no problem, but the other side looks tough. On the first attempt, we get stuck, immediately reversing back down again. Martin inspects the situation on foot, moped and jeep in the background (after all, the jeep could help us get out again for a price). Martin says we'll try a different approach... and off we go, with plenty of speed, we roll, swim, crawl, but then we're at the top!!!
First key section
My heart is pounding, we hope that we've made it. Further through the Fechfech, something is bothering us, the moped and the jeep are still behind us, and we soon see why: In front of us are shallow sand dunes, the main track is worn out and therefore the sand is way too deep for our self-proclaimed offroad VW bus.
Second key section
So Martin goes on inspection again, deflates the tires to 1.1 bar, and we dare to try again. Thanks to Martin's driving skills, we manage to navigate the sand dunes. We breathe a sigh of relief, because now it's quiet behind us. Slowly, my stomachache eases, we fuel up with pasta and finally enjoy the lonely, magnificent landscape.
YES, we did it!
We pass through a lot of sand, dried-out lakes, endless plains (when the navigation isn't working, we unknowingly drive 2 kilometers too far west) and we're really happy that we took the leap... these landscapes make up for everything!
Over dried-out lakes
Conclusion: The car is still intact, only 3 eggs in the fridge had to go :-)