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Day 24 - Coastal hike to Nusfjord

Byatangajwe: 23.08.2018

The weather here rarely follows its forecast, but at least it only rains occasionally, enough to go hiking again. The island of Flakstadøy has barely been explored, and after consulting with the hiking guide, we decide to go on a coastal hike to the historic fishing village of Nusfjord.

The trail starts in a small coastal village called Nesland, which can be reached via a bumpy gravel road. The village seems stuck in time, as lonely and seemingly abandoned as it is along the rocky coast. At the beginning, the trail is easy and beautiful, offering views of the cliffs where the waves break. Soon after, it leads along high rock walls and mountains. This has one consequence in addition to the beautiful views: the path turns into a troublesome mix of marsh, rocks in the marsh, swampy terrain, and streams that occasionally take over the path. It's hard to make progress, and my friend's shoes have already soaked in water, which doesn't improve her mood. There's a little climbing to do over large boulders, which I actually welcome. Then it seems to get easier as we ascend a hill and the path becomes drier. However, we have to overcome a 10-meter ladder leading down. No problem, step by step, without thinking of anything bad. It's drizzling now, which gives us a magical sight at the foot of the ladder. Starting from the mountainside, a magnificent rainbow stretches across the path, almost within reach.

The joy doesn't last long; the nastiness of the trail increases compared to the previous tough sections. Even wider marshy sections that can only be crossed dryly with rubber boots or very wide feet combined with an incredibly fast pace. We meet a nice couple having a picnic, and they ask about the further path and whether it stays the same. We truthfully answer that it actually gets worse and wish each other a good onward hike.

In the end, we arrive in Nusfjord. If you imagine better weather, it's picturesque here: a pier with small cranes, the typical Rorbuer (fishermen's cabins), squawking seagulls, and fishing gear. In a cozy restaurant in one of the old wooden houses, we treat ourselves to cake and coffee before heading back. Given our current knowledge of the trail's condition, motivation is not very high, especially since it's raining again, but it must be done. Shortly after leaving Nusfjord, we run into the same couple again. After a quick inquiry about their experience, they offer us a ride to our parking lot in their car, even if they have to take the detour via the gravel road. Such a generous and very welcome offer. In return, we invite them for another round of coffee and cake at the recently abandoned restaurant. We have a nice conversation; the couple is very interested and open. We learn that they are from Paris and she originally comes from a rural region in China and now works for an IT consulting company in Paris. Impressive resume. When they drop us off at our car at the end, we are almost a little sad that our paths are parting here again. Maybe we'll meet again on the whale safari in Andenes, who knows...

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#norwegen#lofoten#nusfjord#flakstadøy