Yoga + Beach = Varkala

🚩As Katarina and Thomas recommended Varkala to us, we packed our things after breakfast on the houseboat, got into the taxi with them, and took the passenger train there. It sounded relaxing, but it wasn't. We went to the ticket office and asked for the next direct train to Varkala. The guy shook his head! YES OR NO, we asked him. We found out that the next train would leave in about an hour and we would also have to change trains. Another option would be the train afterwards, which would go through but would take longer. The other ticket was cheaper and we were supposed to arrive earlier, so it didn't matter. Let's take it without a reservation! Of course, the train was delayed and the connecting train we had to take in Kollam was also delayed! So we had already been on the train for hours -.- But that was nothing! When the blue passenger train arrived, we saw how crowded it was and how many people, especially men, wanted to get in + us + backpacks! It seemed impossible! The men crowded around the open doors and squeezed themselves in, and we were in the middle of it all. The heat and the tightness! I only saw Jules' panicked face in front of me, making sure I was still inside. The men pushed us through this wagon. Past the stinky Indian toilets. Past the seats through the aisle, but there was no free spot to stand, let alone a seat. People sat half on top of each other, the women squeezed together. People were lying on the luggage racks on the wall. Everywhere there were only Indians and then the two of us, blond, tall, and white women in the middle. At that moment, we were happy that these trains have grills instead of windows and the doors don't close. So, the journey was supposed to take about 1.5 hours, let's see if we survive. After about 20 minutes, the train stopped and Jule asked where we were, because there are no signs for stations in India! They looked at us questioningly. We asked, "Varkala? Is this Varkala?" So everyone started shaking their heads, but to the right and left. What does that mean? "Yes or no!?" we asked in a panic, until all the men started pushing towards the door from the aisle. "Yes, go! Go! Fast, train!" We squeezed our way through the entire aisle, past the men and the stinky toilets, but it was faster because everyone had started pushing. As soon as we were outside in the fresh air, we looked around frantically for the sign with the station name, VARKALA, which is sometimes in Hindi and sometimes in English. The train started moving as soon as we found it. Lucky, we made it. In that moment, Jule swore never to set foot in a passenger train again!

What was that head movement? We nod our heads up and down for YES, and shake our heads from side to side for NO. The Indians don't know the word NO! I strongly feel that their reaction to any question is this head movement: a head shake where you move your ears towards your shoulders. It reminds me of those dogs that some people have in their car, the ones that wobble on the rear window, you know - bobbleheads? Well, it's nice that they never want to say no, but it's not helpful, especially when you ask about the station.

Varkala has many restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops along the coast, specifically on the cliffs overlooking the sea. Fresh fish and seafood are beautifully displayed in front of almost every restaurant. You have the opportunity to choose a special piece, which they will then prepare fresh. However, we were already put off by seafood in Kochi. So no fish for us, at least for now! Every morning, yoga classes are offered at sunrise and in the evening before sunset, even free yoga, right on the beach. Wonderful atmosphere! Especially the red cliffs on the beach, I have never seen anything like it before. Of course, we tried out different restaurants every day until we found our favorite ones with free wifi 🙃 and of course, the 1A view of the sea. Palm trees, sun, sea, and a fantastic breakfast every morning, including a workout in the morning, we really enjoyed ourselves. In the evening, we had our first Kingfisher beer. But why does the waiter always put the bottle on the floor under the table? Public consumption of alcohol seems to be prohibited in Kerala. Only a few establishments have the license, which was usually obtained through corrupt dealings with the police. So it is tolerated, but one should consume it with caution, okay - no problem!

The next day, we rented a scooter and headed north to explore the area and especially the villages. Beautiful! We drove along the beach road, with the sea to our left and the backwaters (river) to our right. The residents waved at us, but the cutest were the children, who happily and excitedly ran after us from the school bus (a 6-seater van packed with about 15 children) saying "Hello! Hello!". I guess they don't see two white women on a scooter very often 🙃 In the last village, just before the city of Kollam, we stopped at a street food and chai tea stand and tried the local food with the locals, which they found incredibly exciting and so did we, especially the food! Various fried delicacies like samosa, banana bread, and more. Yummie!! It was a beautiful day!

Another exciting experience was the mysterious Elephant Festival. We had seen a poster near the beach that mentioned the Elephant Festival. Where and when? We asked almost every Indian about the details... either they didn't know or they mentioned different places and times -_- So we decided to forget about it because it was getting late and it would soon be dark. But then we happened to walk past another tourist office that had also advertised it. Long story short... we ended up at the festival in a neighboring town (45 minutes away by car) at dusk, together with the guys from the tourist office. It was a festival of the god Krishna, who takes the form of an elephant. Don't ask me what exactly happened there! What I know is that there was a huge parade with 30 decorated elephants, dances, songs, and lots of kitsch! In front of the temple stood an elephant, surrounded by crowds of people filming the offerings being brought in a mist of incense and everything else that belongs to this ceremony. It got even more crowded and louder as the parade with the 30 brightly decorated elephants started. Three elephants side by side, of different sizes (the 2nd and 3rd largest elephants in Kerala), led by dancing men singing loudly with drums. After the first 12 elephants, I had had enough of elephants, but it was only halfway through. There was loud chaos around us, we were the only white people, I forgot to mention, and also women! By the way, where are all the women here? We only saw men on the street. The women were all up in the houses and balconies. A woman is not supposed to be on the street at this time. So we were once again the 2nd highlight, along with the elephants: two blonde monkeys! Even within the parade, there were no girls or women to be seen. Only boys and men who were allowed to dance and sing. We were so happy to have the two guys with us! Too much pushing and too many men/crowds. The guys kept the men away from us, and what's even better... we not only had personal bodyguards, but also free guides. Awesome!🌟