North Macedonia

23.05.23

Since yesterday I am traveling alone again on the streets of the Balkans. Naturally a bit sad, because we experienced a lot in the last two months. Thank you for the great time Jessi.

Today I am back in full travel mode and looking forward to the next adventurous part of my journey. But before I am finally on the road again with my closest companion Bürsti, there is still a visit that I am particularly excited about, and not just since yesterday. One week together in Albania. Only 8 days to go. Can't wait.

Back in road trip mode, North Macedonia is practically on the way from Peloponnese to Albania.

From Diakopto, in the north of Peloponnese, I started yesterday towards Prilep, the 4th largest city in North Macedonia. On the almost 600 km trip, a stop near Ioannina, a city in northern Greece, is possible.

Yesterday's drive was not one of those relaxed drives where you cruise happily and full of anticipation through the countryside, but rather one where you wonder why you're even doing it.

The toll was almost outrageously expensive. The ferry wasn't running either, so I had to take the new bridge, which costs over 20 EUR alone. The alternative of driving without tolls is only a real option if you have enough time and strong nerves to drive on routes in the middle of nowhere where you spend 45 minutes for 10 km.

Bürsti had to suffer a lot on these roads. Potholes, inclines, bends, etc., although that somehow belongs to it and was only a small taste of what to expect in North Macedonia.

Today straight to Macedonia. Smooth until the border. Then the customs officer asked for insurance, which I didn't know about and what it was for. Although I still don't know, the lady's message was clear: 'buy insurance or go.' Very friendly, I didn't have to think twice about it. You could buy the document in a small 'office', which doesn't really deserve the name office, at least not from our top standardized Central European point of view. After all, I wasn't in an EU country anymore, which apparently is also the reason for this overpriced, unnecessary document. When entering the room through a faded, colorful fly net, it felt like I had traveled a few decades back in time. The shelves were empty except for a few half-empty, dusty bottles of cleaning agents. A cleaning cloth lay perfectly on the huge printer, which occupied half of the room. The blinds hung crooked and almost completely lowered on the windows. Too much daylight is simply not good for the working atmosphere. Two small, worn-out sofas also created a cozy atmosphere. One of the two well-built men was sitting behind two monitors, which reminded me of the ones from my school days - and they were already retro back then. The other man sat opposite him, smoking, with an espresso and a mobile phone in his hand. Both were highly motivated and couldn't wait to fill out such a form for me. I don't like to disturb, thought I, because if it were up to me, I wouldn't need you to issue me such an 'important' paper.

One of the two took pity on me and took down my details. I couldn't hope for an explanation of what this insurance is actually needed for, because the official was a man of few words, as I quickly realized.

Then the bill came to 50 EUR, which of course could only be paid in cash. However, I was supposed to pay 60 EUR. The 10 EUR, it was said briefly and succinctly in response to my inquiry, were for bank transfer and/or fees.

Anyway... After this situation alone, I knew again why I love to travel and why I feel more and more comfortable in the Balkans. Here you definitely experience something, and you can't get more authenticity than that. So no negative judgment at this point. The two men are just doing their job and were also friendly.

After the border, I wished for the Greek roads again. Potholes as big as if comets regularly hit here.

Nevertheless, I was fully enthusiastic about this wild country, which reminded me a bit of Albania but also has its own character. Hopefully, I can tell you more in a few days.

I arrived in Prilep, the 4th largest city in North Macedonia, around noon. About 60,000 people live in this lively but manageable city. The city is mainly known for the cultivation of high-quality tobacco. These plants are called 'Gold Prileps' and are highly valued worldwide. Many well-known cigarette manufacturers source their tobacco from here.

I quickly reached the city center by bike, which I immediately liked because there is a bit of life and plenty to discover here. Many small shops that sell, for example, cheese. Many cafes and bars that are not quite as fancy and modern as in Greece but still look inviting. Everywhere, like at a bazaar, clothes, sunglasses, and phone cases are sold. The market hall is my highlight. First of all, well supplied with fresh food. The people are once again super friendly and relaxed. I found a new SIM card for internet here, only for 5 EUR, 14 GB. Carefree surfing for the next few days, for sure. It couldn't be going any better.

In the evening, I ended up in a supermarket that was like a small Metro. The best store ever. A product selection that suits my taste perfectly. Even milk alternatives, good coffee, and cheese. Endless sweets. Börek. Etc. I will visit again tomorrow, this time by car.

Furthermore, tomorrow I will visit the bouldering area 'Kamena Baba', which is one of the few tourist 'attractions' here and for which I actually came here. North Macedonia seems to be hardly touristy in general, which makes it even more exciting...