Yerevan - stranded in JR's

On Monday morning (12.11.2018), I have breakfast in peace, take a stroll with Rango in Sevan and wipe away my traces in the hostel kitchen. According to the weather forecast, it will rain in the area for the next few days and then snow. So I decided to take the bus for the last 60 kilometers to Yerevan. Contrary to the pessimistic predictions of some locals, I am able to get on the first minibus to the Armenian capital with the Big One. Around half past one, we reach the Eridarsadakan bus station near the city center of Yerevan. During the ride, I marked several hostels in my map app, which we now visit one after the other. Around three o'clock, we reach JR's House Hostel and after some back and forth about Rango, I finally get a bed in the 12-person dormitory. The Big One finds a place in front of the room on a kind of balcony. Throughout the remaining day, I have conversations with a few other residents who have some interesting stories to tell.

On Tuesday morning, I have a video call with Down Under for the first time in a long time, while enjoying a coffee on the sunny hostel terrace. The altitude difference of over 1000 m to the Sevan area has a positive effect. After saying goodbye to my sister and hanging up the washed clothes during the call, I take a stroll with Rango in Yerevan in the afternoon. I haven't been able to find an old town yet, but I have found a modern city center with some green areas and typical promenades. Back at the hostel, I spend the evening in good company again.

On Wednesday, 14.11.2018, I go to the Iranian embassy. Since the visa application failed electronically at the passport scan, I am now trying to get things rolling through personal appearance. The embassy informs me that for further processing of the visa, an eVisa application must first be available in the system. That's a good start. I am given an address where I can get help with the application (of course for a small fee). Back at the embassy, I am given an 'appointment' for the coming Monday. Back at the hostel, I chat with Thelma (a traveler on her way back to Iran) and Michel (a philosopher from Belarus who is walking to Kathmandu).

Time flies in the hostel. The days start between eight and half past eight with a walk around the block. In good weather, you can see the outlines of the impressive Ararat near the hostel. But most of the time it's rather cloudy in the morning. After 20 minutes in the fresh air, I have breakfast at the hostel, which is included in the overnight price (just under 4 €). In addition to bread with butter, cheese, cold cuts, salads (savory and sweet), various jams, cakes, and various cereals, something warm is also offered regularly. For example, fried eggs or fried cauliflower. Tea and coffee are available all day long. During the day, I always have something to do and rarely find time for my aimless walks in the city. For example, it took me two attempts to get my hiking shoes repaired. The first 'shoemaker' had done a bad job.

On Saturday, 17.11.2018, Rango falls from the podium in front of the dorm and dangles on his leash. I'm taking a nap and wouldn't have noticed it at all. But two Indians react promptly. One holds him from below, the other gets me and I can lift Rango back over the railing. The Big One was well aware of his unpleasant situation, I could briefly see the panic in his eyes when he was in my arms. The next few nights, I take him with me into the dorm when I go to bed. The balcony seems too unsafe to me. In the evening, I often sit at my laptop until long after midnight and prepare my travel articles for my grandparents, who stubbornly refuse to enter the digital age. But at 84 years old, that's somehow understandable.

On Monday, 19.11.2018, I am punctually at two o'clock at the Iranian embassy in the Arabkir district. I am told to come back on Wednesday. In the evening, I meet up with Nare in the center of Yerevan, we stroll through the city and later meet with Zina and Mehran. The evening in a small pub/cafe is quite entertaining, especially Nare has caught my attention. The young lady (24 years old) has a flair for the German language, is an aspiring notary, responsible for the paperwork at the hostel, and makes waiting in the Armenian capital very easy for me.

On Tuesday (20 November 2018), I go to the vet with Rango. The Big One has a spot on his leg that he has been licking for almost two weeks and I no longer feel that I can solve the problem with propolis ointment. Blood is taken and a few tissue samples are taken. He is given a few injections and a cream, prednisolone and an antibiotic are prescribed. The fun costs almost 70 € and I should come back next Tuesday. Almost like at home.

On Wednesday, the next visit to the embassy is scheduled, this time I am strongly advised to return on the following Monday. Meanwhile, a few new interesting guests have arrived at JR's. I get along great with Penelope from Switzerland and Ivan from Bulgaria. So it's still not boring. The hostel is jokingly referred to as a black hole among some travelers. Once checked in, there is no escape. The Big One has meanwhile moved to the boiler room, where he boredly dismantles the insulation on the inside of the door piece by piece and often calls for me. Preferably at night, he has to get used to sleeping alone.