peru-2023
peru-2023
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Days 16, 17, 18 and 19 of the Inca Trail

Publicado: 27.09.2023

Hello everyone... the Inca Trail. Fascinating and hell at the same time. The first day started at 4:00 in the morning. Even though I was supposed to be picked up, I still had to drive myself to the departure point. Which is a problem since there were no taxis that early. My landlord got me someone, but it was very expensive. Well, there was no other way... We were a nice group of 6 people, two couples, a really nice woman and me. Plus two tour guides, Marko and Bruno, and I think 15 porters. At the beginning it was said that if we didn't want to wear it, we could give it to the porters for an additional charge. Ines immediately cleaned herself out. Then it started at kilometer 82. It was now time to run. I didn't know what that meant at the time. When it came to the first 70 meters of altitude (that's not a lot) I was panting a lot and was quickly the last in the group. The height was already bothering me. The couples were young and dynamic and I had a guilty conscience because one of the leaders always had to run behind the last one (that was me). The untouched nature was amazing. So beautiful. I wanted so much to capture everything. Of course, that doesn't make any progress. There were breaks and lunch in between. What the porters do is incredible. They carry up to 23 kg and when you arrive everything is already there, food is ready and you wonder what shortcut they took. The first day was done after about 10 kilometers. We arrived at the camp and everything was already ready. From the tent you had a magnificent view of the mountains. At 8 p.m. everyone was ready for the night because the wake-up call was at 4:45. To be honest, if I hadn't been in the group, I would probably have said... good guys, it was a nice day, I was happy, see you next time. But then something completely new came along. Ambition. I wanted to do it. New side of me...not bad. The next day dawned, all the aches and pains were gone and I was in good spirits. There was an altitude difference of 1200 meters. I really had respect for that. And not without reason. It was 7 km just uphill. It happened very quickly and Ines was last again. Bruno became my shadow. He tried to walk in such a way that I felt like there was no one behind me. I was definitely grateful to him, but I still discovered him every now and then :). Looking back, I have to say that it also gave me security. I took headphones with me and listened to music to distract myself from the effort. That went quite well. I had to stop again and again to acclimatize. This worked well up to 3800 meters, then it got really thin. Luckily Pepe had given me coca leaves. I had coca leaves all over my cheek and was chewing on them to endure the altitude. Always uphill and even higher. On the way you make friends with other sufferers and are glad that you aren't feeling so badly alone. 100 m, rest, 100 m, rest... then it got steeper and steeper, from a distance you saw the first ones at the peak and thought, right after the next bend... No, unfortunately not, not even afterward the next and the next. Afterwards I only managed 10 steps and had to sit down. But at some point that too came to an end. The torture was worth it, I made it to the pass. Huge feelings of happiness, relief and a wonderful view. I, Ines Fischer, did it. Crazy thing, hard to believe. Then it went down...stairs. Not standardized in any way. Nope, Inca steps. Everything from very high to low. Well, mostly very high. Incidentally, this also goes down over 600 meters in altitude. This is knee-jerk, old butterfly. I couldn't even tell now which was worse, up or down. There should be lunch in the camp at 2 p.m. I've always been on time for dinner, I've managed it. Then rest and don't move anymore... not at all. I think the day covered 12 km. The third day should be the longest, but not the most difficult. 16 km were announced. First over a pass again, at 4000 m, that was even possible since it was only 400 meters in altitude, so you could actually get used to that. Then 900 m down. What can I tell you, stairs. But ok also way. The landscape, the path, the forest, so beautiful. I felt like I was in a fairytale forest, all I needed was for a fairy to come towards me. Indescribably beautiful, this untouched nature, this peace... once back at the top, lunch. Our magicians had everything ready again. Delicious... well the food was always a poem. Rest briefly after eating. We've had cell phone reception up there for three days now. I realized that I didn't miss it and I didn't care at all. Dear people staying at home, I love you all, but I didn't miss being reachable anytime and anywhere. As I said, things continued after the break. Up to this point we had always had nice weather, but now we were surprised by a thunderstorm. But it was really cool somehow. Rain cape out of the backpack and on we went. Every now and then porters running downhill overtook us. So how did she do it, running down those steps with the load. Respect... That was also really steep and next to the stairs it went really downhill. If you fall there, you won't survive. You wouldn't be able to take such paths in Germany. Never, no railing, nothing. But it also fascinated and scared me at the same time. After 16 km and seemingly endless stairs and knees that were actually no longer there, I arrived at the camp. What do you mean, I. On the way I met Maria from our group and we walked the rest together. That was also really good, because the path stretched like chewing gum and we were no longer sure we were in the right place. Then there was Bruno, who always showed up when we needed him. Thanks Bruno. When I arrived at the camp, I never wanted to walk again. The toilet was also so far away from the tents and uphill that I was in communion with nature. I didn't want to move anymore. This evening we said goodbye to the porters because the destination was reached the next day. We were woken up at 2:45 am. To be at the Sonnentor as early as possible. Wasn't far this time. Only an hour. Another beautiful path. I love the nature of Peru. So many different facets. Fantastic... And finally... Machu Picchu, breathtaking view from above. Incredibly beautiful and we did it. Such a feeling of happiness to have made it, despite all the hardships. I learned a lot about myself along the way, and I think I left some vices behind on the mountain. Every step was worth it for me. I really don't regret a minute. I just must have lost my knees somewhere. Anyone who does this tour should really have ambition, a love of nature and not be squeamish about sanitary facilities. 4 days without a shower also has its price. But it's worth it in every way. If you do this, only take what you need with you. You don't need much to be happy. If I wanted to stop at the beginning, I'm even happier that I did it. Experiencing all of this, knowing about myself, the great team. This is something I never want to be without. Thanks to the porters, to Marko and Bruno and to my group Maximilian, Julia, Jolanda, the funny Swiss Kullerkek Ramon and to Maria. You were so great and an enrichment to my life. And what can I tell you, I'm looking forward to tomorrow.

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