Day 36: Nusa Penida

On March 15th, my journey continued to Nusa Penida, with a one-day delay. The small island is located southeast of Bali and can be reached by speedboat in 45 minutes. The water was calm, the waves were very even and long, making the crossing very pleasant. Upon arriving on the island, I was picked up by the private driver of the homestay and warmly welcomed with tea.

Nusa Penida has only been known as a tourist destination since about 2016, and accordingly, everything is still very young and original. The people are warm and super friendly, often genuinely interested and not just after your money. I especially felt this feeling of being welcome in the hotel, but also on the rest of the island. However, 25% of the coastal area has already been sold to investors, who will probably turn the island into a tourist hotspot in the near future.

However, I hardly met any tourists on most of the beaches, whether it's because of the low season or Corona, I can't judge. In any case, I had wonderfully beautiful beaches all to myself. On the first day, I went to Atuh Beach in the afternoon, which is located in the south of the island and is surrounded by cliffs hundreds of meters high, like many of the beaches. You can only access the beach via a steep path that leads down the slope of the mountain. The view from above is spectacular, and when you arrive below, you feel like a puppet between the high cliffs.

Unfortunately, swimming was hardly possible because the waves were very high and the ground consisted of sharp stones. As the day approached its end, the true beauty of the island revealed itself in the gentle yellow light of the evening sun. With the scooter, I went back home on well-built roads, unlike other places, the traffic here is very moderate. There is a main road around the island, from which many others branch off and lead to the respective villages and attractions. The road itself is as wide as one lane on German highways, so it gets very narrow when a car comes towards you. Moreover, the horn is used here as a warning signal for overtaking maneuvers, but also in dangerous situations as a greeting and to drive away dogs. So, in addition to the engine noise, the silence is filled with constant honking.

The next day started for me with a banana pancake and Balinese tea. Strengthened by the delicious meal, I went to the famous Kelingking Beach, which has the shape of a T-Rex and is considered the landmark of Nusa Penida. Here too, the locals have accomplished something incredible and carved a staircase into the steep mountain. Admittedly, the path is not entirely easy, but overall, anyone can reach the beach. The bay offers fine white sand and big waves, in which visitors try to defy the power of nature. Funny scenes occur when people literally get their legs pulled out from under them. If you manage to get out beyond the surf zone, you can let the big waves carry you. I spent most of my day on the beach until I started the ascent in the hot afternoon sun. Some climbing is required, which naturally released endorphins in me. However, the path was sweaty, and when I finally reached the top, a cool breeze and the view released me from the exhausting climb.

Afterwards, I returned to the hotel, where I held a corona crisis meeting. Due to recent events, I decided, like many others, to start the journey back home before a border closure and possible flight ban. So, hopefully, my days in Indonesia are numbered, and I can start my return journey on March 20th with a heavy heart.

This decision is always in the back of my mind in the coming days, and accordingly, activities cannot be fully enjoyed without worries. I hope for the best and follow the news carefully. Despite all precautions, I want to enjoy the last few days. Hopefully, tomorrow I will return to Bali, where I will stay for two more days before flying back home. I will probably go surfing during this time and otherwise stay at the hostel. The Balinese are right, Corona is afraid of seawater, which should be sterile.

I spent today at Gamat Bay, the beach is somewhat hidden in a small bay. It is difficult to reach on foot, so there were no tourists on the beach. Only a few locals joined me. The second highlight of the beach is the impressive coral world in the water. Here, the ecosystem is still completely intact, allowing the landscape to reveal its full splendor. Colorful, huge hard corals adorn the seafloor, while soft corals and fish swing back and forth in the current. The place feels very peaceful and shows the incredible beauty of the underwater world, which of course the locals offering boat tours to this magical place are aware of. So, there are other snorkelers in the water with me. At certain times of the year, sea turtles even come to the beach to lay their eggs. Unfortunately, I was not fortunate enough to witness this spectacle.

Unexpectedly, a real, strong tropical rain shower suddenly came from one of the clouds in the sky. Fortunately, I was able to take shelter and came away unharmed. After that, I went to an influencer highlight, the Broken Beach. Online, the place was described as a must-visit for young people, as it makes a great Instagram picture. The description was partly correct, the place was very focused on tourism, with paved paths, many restaurants, and above all, many people.

Despite everything, the place was definitely worth a visit because the landscape is simply impressive. You can see the high cliffs along the coast rising out of the water, with the seawater crashing into them and being catapulted into the air. There is also the famous hole, inside of which there is a beach that is too dangerous to enter. You can walk over the natural arch bridge and the fascinating landscape offers motives for breathtaking pictures.

I end the evening relaxed with a smoothie bowl, the sunset, and a burger.