12.10. Attack of the Monkeys

خپور شوی: 12.10.2018

The journey from Siem Reap to Battambang was on the agenda early this morning. After a three-hour drive with only one interruption, when the bus funny enough drove away with our luggage, but only went to the workshop, we arrived in Battambang.

The great thing about this city is that it is not overrun by tourists and they are only found at the major attractions - a welcome change after Bangkok and Siem Reap!

After checking in at the hostel, which was the cheapest for us so far, only two dollars per person with a pool, we continued on to the Bamboo Train. The term 'train' here is maybe a bit misleading, because it was rather a bamboo plank put together on wheels with a motor in the back. This vehicle drove us at about 30 kilometers per hour for 20 minutes to a small village, which mainly consisted of the operators of the surrounding rice fields. In the past, the residents used the Bamboo Train exclusively to transport their goods back and forth, but today they have switched to other means of transportation. Since the tracks are 'one way' only, the entire vehicle must be dismantled and reassembled if there is oncoming traffic, which somehow adds to the charm. In the village, we were the only tourists around, but many locals, especially children, greeted and waved at us. The English skills were limited to mainly two phrases, to offer us cold drinks and bracelets, which made us realize where we actually were: in Southeast Asia, over 9,000 kilometers away from home.

The tracks of the Bamboo Train
The tracks of the Bamboo Train
The village
The village's gas station
After the return trip with the Bamboo Train, where the breeze at over 34 degrees was an incredible gift, we continued on to the Banan Temple. Until we arrived, I was convinced that it would be called Banana Temple, but I was proven otherwise... To reach said temple, one had to overcome about 120 steps, not very exhilarating in the weather. But it was rewarded with another slightly dilapidated temple, which transported one to another time and made one marvel at what people could already accomplish back then.
The stairs to the Banan Temple
The stairs to the Banan Temple

Then the plan was to visit Mount Phnom Sampov, which was full of history and special places. We visited the so-called 'Killing Caves', an impressive and sad place of remembrance for the genocide of many locals who were murdered over the caves and whose bodies were dropped into the depths through cracks and holes to facilitate disposal. It was a pretty oppressive feeling to walk through the caves, where hundreds of bodies were once piled up, and where a shrine with bones and skulls was set up to commemorate the victims. The genocide was led by communists who staged a coup against the former government and did not tolerate any opponents, but also did not spare their children.

A hole through which the bodies were pushed

After this depressing intermediate stop, we continued to hike up the mountain, where a magnificent temple has been built in remembrance of the genocide. There we already saw a few monkeys in the trees and on the buildings, but we were still happy to see them.

The temple on the mountain

We took a brief look around, but soon had to start the descent again to not miss a special event in the valley. On the way, we discovered a horde of monkeys on a railing that bordered the path and initially didn't think much of it because they were just monkeys... But when the horde noticed us, it jumped right onto our path and approached us. Well, what can you do? Immediately you think of rabies and other contagious diseases and just want to get rid of the monkeys. Throw something at them or lure them away with food? There was nothing to throw and food would probably have gone wrong too because the monkeys would have only pounced on us. So we made ourselves big and rushed through the horde of monkeys with stomping and hissing, of course nothing happened.

At the bottom of the valley, we arrived just in time for the event we had to hurry for: the exodus of millions of bats from the so-called 'Bat Cave'. A continuous and spectacular stream that could be watched from a terrace over the sky and lasted for a good 45 minutes.

The swarm of bats

How can all these masses fit into a cave, how do they organize themselves so that the stream remains constant and they don't all rush out at once, and how do the bats manage to fly in a swarm only through wave resonance, remains a mystery to me.

After seeing so much in one day, it was time to enjoy the well-deserved pool at the hostel, because today was one of the hottest days so far and we needed the cooling. Tomorrow we will already go to the next big city, Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.

Thanks for reading and greetings from Cambodia!

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