Croatia

Day 8 (27.9.): Trieste - Rijeka 85 km 1300 hm

Start in Trieste at sea level - Arrival after 85 km in Rijeka at sea level. In between, there are 1300 meters of elevation through the Slovenian and Croatian highlands, peaking at 800 m. We start on the Cottur bike path, named after the Italian cyclist Giordano Cottur, who was born in Trieste and won five stages at the Giro. The bike path mostly follows the route of the former Trieste-Erpelle railway, which was in use from the time of Habsburg rule until the early 50s. We steadily climb over bridges and through well-lit tunnels, initially on asphalt and then on rough gravel - fortunately, we have the gravel bikes with us. After about 20 km, which feel noticeably longer, we reach the Slovenian border. We cross this sparsely populated part of Slovenia on small, well-built side roads and continue gaining altitude. Before the last two climbs, we take a break and are glad there’s a tavern right after the Croatian border. The coffee is refreshing. There are still 40 km to Rijeka, and it continues climbing with over 10% gradient. At the top, we cycle up and down. The last 15 km require hardly any pedaling, we can just roll along. The entry into Rijeka is dreary, but luckily the city center looks better. We have time on a rest day tomorrow to explore everything in more detail.

Day 9 (28.9.): Rest Day in Rijeka

In the morning, we take our time for breakfast and reading the newspaper. During our walk through the city, we visit a tunnel that was dug under the old town during World War II between 1939 and 1942, measuring 330 meters in length. This was done to protect the civilian population from air raids by the English and Americans, which is why the tunnel is up to ten meters deep in places. We stroll along the busy main promenade, Korzo, which is lined with buildings from the Habsburg era. Towards the sea, we find the market halls and the Croatian National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc, dating back to the 19th century and featuring ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt. Unfortunately, these cannot be visited. We ascend over 500 steps to the castle complex of Trsat, located on a hill, from where we have a wide view over the islands of the Kvarner Bay.

Day 10 (29.9.): Rijeka - Vrbnik (Island of Krk) 60 km 900 hm

It is only a short stage, but on the way to the island and also on Krk, we will encounter steep climbs. After a heavy thunderstorm overnight, the sun shines in the morning. We pass the extensive port facilities of the city and after 15 km, we need to change the tube on Dominique’s front wheel. It's troublesome as the tire hardly comes off. On the bridge to the island and in the following kilometers, traffic is heavy, and we are relieved when we can turn onto a small country road towards the east. Soon we reach the coastal strip and treat ourselves to an extensive coffee break. An interesting gravel section above the coast with navigable climbs follows. From time to time, we have to dismount and push due to the trail conditions. A tough ascent to 200 m and more ramps demand everything from us. Shortly after, we see our destination, Vrbnik, with its distinctive bell tower. The whole village is gathered for a wedding in the village square, a band is playing - everyone is singing and dancing along.

Day 11 (29.9.): Vrbnik

The idea was to spend the late summer by the sea with swimming and relaxing. The latter is easy, but despite the sun, it is much too cold for swimming due to the strong wind. We take an extensive walk to one of the beaches in the area and lie down in the sun dressed (!) for a while. Summer is clearly over!