Krabi - Ao Nang and Tonsai Beach

After more than 2 weeks in the north of Thailand, including long bus and train journeys, we are excited about Thailand's beaches. Merle is back to her old self and already a true travel professional. The round trip flight to Krabi, including transfers, took us about 6 hours. She doesn't mind at all, not even the most expensive bus ride so far in the shabbiest bus with the unfriendliest driver. That's just how it is in tourist hotspots. We like the hotel in Ao Nang so much that we decide to extend our stay for one more night - let's take it easy. The beach in Ao Nang is a short motorbike taxi ride away and turns out to be touristy but very nice, with the famous rock formations on either side. Merle is initially skeptical about swimming in the sea, she probably can't believe how warm the water is. Spoiler alert: she quickly gets used to it.

The next morning, we quickly jump on one of the countless long-tail boats and head to Tonsai Beach. So, we wade through knee-deep water to the boat, carrying 2 large backpacks, 2 small backpacks, and the occasionally practical buggy. The driver is having a rough day and mostly refuses to help, as we unload, he yells "Hurry, hurry" to us from the other side of the boat, which we interpret as encouraging cheers.

Now we're on the beach and we see: besides a few long-tail boats, some burnt-down huts, and a striking wall, not much else. The scenery is certainly picturesque, but we currently have little appreciation for it. Where could the nice accommodations at the climbing camp be that we contacted in advance? After a jungle run with a mosquito chase, it becomes clear: this wall is impenetrable (it's not, but almost). So, should we go to this resort that looks so out of place in the right part of the beach? Aware that we are acting morally questionable, we decide to do so.

We spend the first 3 nights, and a total of 5 nights with the extension, in this paradise. An overhanging rock allows us to splash around in the shade all morning, Merle is thrilled. Climbers dominate the scene on the beach, occasionally you can also see "normal" tourists. But most of them are at the next bay at Raileh Beach, where the water is slightly clearer, the sand a shade whiter - and the hinterland is full of expensive hotels.

Thomas is initially shy when it comes to finding potential climbing partners - no equipment with him, limited time windows (now would be a good time because the little one is sleeping) - but Merle takes care of it on the 2nd day and meets a nice Russian young dad who turns out to be a great climbing partner. After a sneak tour right on the beach, they plan to meet in the afternoon.

Downsides: Well, the wall was built by "our" resort, for inexplicable reasons - the resort itself is also outside of this wall. And then there's the Tonsai tummy. They encountered us on the first day, the recovering ones. "Where have you been? Tonsai tummy, man." And yes, after 3 days it caught up with us too - despite (or because of) resort food and constant hand washing. Only Merle is spared, despite (or because of) eating sand and drinking saltwater.

Just in time for the ferry ride to Ko Lanta, we are somewhat restored and transportable - perfect timing once again.