26.10.2022 - Back to city life

Palms, beach, and sun - after two and a half weeks of traveling in Vietnam, I needed a little break from the typical backpacker life. And where better to spend a break than on an island where the average temperature is 32 degrees and there are about 6.9 hours of sunshine per day. It wasn't quite perfect on Phu Quoc due to the current rainy season, but still much better than standing in waist-high water in Central Vietnam. Since not much happened in those days, I'll cut it short and jump right ahead.

After four days of beach vacation, my batteries were recharged and I was ready for the big city jungle 2.0. I have to admit that I was a little nervous beforehand. My first big city experience in Asia at the beginning of my trip had a lasting impact on me, and Ho Chi Minh City has about a million more inhabitants than Hanoi.

After a short flight, I arrived in the largest Vietnamese city on Wednesday, and I have to say, even during the taxi ride from the airport to the city center, I had a much better feeling than three weeks ago. It may have been because I have now become somewhat "settled," or it may simply be that Ho Chi Minh City is more relaxed than Hanoi. One thing I immediately noticed was that the noise level was more pleasant. Although we were in the middle of rush hour, it was a bit more orderly and there was less honking compared to Hanoi - although it was still nothing compared to Europe (but then again, I am not in Europe).

After six hostels (the majority sounds a bit strange, but according to the dictionary, that's correct) in 18 days, I had established a little routine. Check-in, drop off my backpack, lock up valuables, quickly organize, take a breath, and go in search of food. After about an hour, the program was completed, so I had some time before sleep to enjoy the wonderful view from the hostel's rooftop terrace and chat with some other backpackers.

The first morning in Ho Chi Minh City started with a quick breakfast because the first tour was already waiting for me at 8:30 a.m. My destination was the Cu Chi Tunnels. The total 500 kilometer network of tunnels and bunkers served as the headquarters for the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War and played a significant role in defeating the Americans. Today, you can visit this tunnel system and get an impression of the living conditions people had back then. Looking back, the tour was a bit disappointing. The guide spoke very good English, but overall, it felt like he was just going through the motions. He provided very little in-depth information, and everything felt very touristy and superficial. My personal (negative) highlight was the cafe. As part of the tour of the tunnel system, you had the opportunity to shoot real weapons at targets for only 1.50 euros per bullet - a real bargain. Those who did not want to shoot (myself included) could sit in a cafe and take a break during that time. Now, it so happened that the shooting range was less than ten meters away from the cafe. So, while machine guns were being fired at targets next door, the cups on the cafe table were shaking - it was incredibly loud. After the relaxed break in the cafe, we were given the opportunity to walk through a tunnel that was built back then. A claustrophobic feeling, literally. The tunnel was 1.30 meters high at its highest point. Despite this experience, my conclusion about the tour is negative. The topic was only superficially covered, and it was really just about taking money from tourists. Very disappointing, but since I had been lucky with my previous tours, I can overlook this experience.

To delve a bit deeper into the history of Vietnam, I decided to start the second day with a visit to the War Remnants Museum in order to dive into the history of Vietnam a bit further. Although this is certainly not the most beautiful and relaxing attraction in Ho Chi Minh City, a visit here is a must. On three floors, it shows the brutal crimes that took place in Vietnam not too long ago. From the beginnings to the developments and the peace negotiations, all stages of the war are illuminated here. Particularly moving was the exhibition on the consequences of Agent Orange, a defoliant used by the Americans in the Vietnam War to strip the dense jungle forests and uncover the hiding places/supply routes of the Viet Cong. Using real pictures and stories from countless victims, it shows the horrifying consequences this use had and still has on the human body. Even today, children are born with deformities because their ancestors were exposed to Agent Orange.

After a short break - the impressions needed to be processed - I went to the Reunification Palace. This palace was the seat of the government of South Vietnam during the Vietnam War, and it was also the place where the end of the war in 1975 was sealed. Today, you can visit the entire building, including the president's living quarters and the underground bunker system. And of course, I didn't want to miss that - after all, a large and significant part of Vietnamese history was written here.

After so much history, I had planned a slightly "lighter" program for the evening hours. First, I went to the Bitexco Financial Tower to observe the sunset and the hustle and bustle on the streets from a height of almost 270 meters. After that, it was time for every football fan's must-do. Even before the start of the trip, it was clear to me that I wanted to attend at least one football match in Vietnam. This evening finally presented the perfect opportunity. Saigon FC played against Hai Phong FC in their home stadium. Apparently, I wasn't the only European who had this idea. It felt like there were more Germans, English, and Dutch people on the stands than home fans. But that was also because more than half of the estimated 4,000 spectators belonged to the away team. Nevertheless, this didn't detract from the entertainment. After a little setback at the beginning (no beer was sold in the stadium), I found out during the second half that you could simply leave the stadium, buy a beer outside, and then re-enter with it. I still don't understand the logic behind it, but well. So, despite the mediocre game, it was still entertaining.

The following day was much quieter. I let myself wander through the city, soaked up the atmosphere, and took care of some organizational things. Because the next day, the journey would continue to...