Lofalitsidwa: 22.10.2022
Thanks to the meteorologically accurate satellite images on the internet and the phone call with our Bosnian friends from Germany, we set off to the 'Una National Park' in Bosnia ('Una' is the river there). Rain, rain, and more rain were forecasted on the Croatian coast. The hope for dry weather drove us away. For the first time, we had to wait at the border and show our passports and car papers. With a first 'havala' (thank you), we once again went to the next gas station to get SIM cards and exchange Croatian 'Kuna' to Bosnian 'Mark'. In pouring rain, we arrived at the waterfalls in northern Bosnia. During the drive along the Una River, we were amazed. The Una River has a particularly striking turquoise color, and there were signs for wolves along the way. Bears also live in the national park, but unfortunately, we didn't get to meet either of them.
After visiting the waterfall and seeing the crazy rafting group, with 9 men jumping down a 4-5 meter waterfall in an 'inflatable boat', we bought the most expensive honey of our lives against our own arrangements. On the drive into the country, we saw many small stands selling local honey. To try something typical of the country, we naturally wanted to buy something there and agreed to do it on the roadside and not at the 'sightseeing tour point' where it costs at least three times as much. But they were just so nice there at the waterfall ^^ In the end, we set off to the next campground slightly shocked with 2 jars of honey for 40 euros. At least we learned that this was a very special honey from the queen bee (I think they mean 'royal jelly'). We were supposed to take half a teaspoon every day, and it should last for about a year (maybe with a tiny teaspoon and only one person). Well, the fact reassured us that we would stay healthy at least until the jar is empty 😊
The first campground in Bosnia was great. Despite the rain, we felt very comfortable there. It was right by the river, and Ado and his wife warmly welcomed us and later cooked us a delicious meal (vegetarian for me, with an incomprehensible smile). And of course, as would happen from now on more often, there was at least one schnapps that warmed (almost) everyone up as a welcome. We met many new people and befriended a French family who finally had children with them. We went hiking with them (another waterfall), went to a restaurant, and after a few days, continued to the south of Bosnia. It was great to see the children playing so wonderfully together, despite not understanding a word of each other. Felix once said to me, 'You know, Mama, sometimes I just say yes and sometimes no, and then I just go along.'
In southern Bosnia, we wanted to stay at a lake, which was unfortunately more than half dried up. It was great for playing, but unfortunately not for swimming. When we tried to get to the water, we sank so deep into the muddy mud that we almost couldn't get out. So our plans for a stand-up paddleboarding tour to the little island in the middle of the lake didn't work out either. On the second evening, a thunderstorm came from the mountains behind us with incredible speed, something we had never experienced before. Since we were standing right in front of the sloping shore of the lake and facing the storm side, we had to move the motorhome within a few minutes. In the momentary panic, I accidentally drove over our cable drum. Why is it always me??? First the tree in France, then the dining table in Slovenia, and now I destroy the 'umbilical cord of electronics'. At least it survived the mistreatment. Later we found an empty new drum at a campsite in Montenegro, and I finally replaced it in Albania. It even has a residual-current device (RCD) and everything. A woman's got to do it herself 😊 My dearest husband repaired the couch leg at the dining table, so we're fully operational again!!! The storm was over after a maximum of 15-20 minutes, and the sun came out... Impressive experience. This is probably what happens to hikers or those in the mountains when they say, '...they were surprised by a thunderstorm...!!!'
Every country also includes visiting a beautiful city. With two motorhomes in a mini convoy, we continued to 'Mostar'. Upon arriving at a guarded parking lot in the middle of the city, we were immediately shown the tradition with which the half-naked young men earn some extra money. In the beautiful old town of Mostar, there is a 19-meter-high bridge that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This bridge connects the predominantly Muslim district with the predominantly Catholic district and is the symbol of the city. Young men demonstrate their courage by jumping from the bridge into the icy river (nowadays after being paid by tourists, around 40-50 euros).
After visiting the city and having a few more 'Cevapcici' for dinner with our French friends, our paths separated again the next day. Unfortunately, they only had 2 months to travel, so they had to move faster than us. I hope we see them again someday. Thank you Marie and Etien for the wonderful days!!!
Our conclusion:
We liked Bosnia very, very much. The drive from north to south through the high plain was beautiful and sad at the same time. We saw entire ghost towns along with countless abandoned houses as a result of the war, which made us pensive. At the same time, the nature was so impressive with the rocky meadows and the vastness of the high plain. After the Croatian cliffs and high mountains, it just felt good and liberating. I could have driven for hours more.
It's great that we ended up in this country unexpectedly!!!
Next stop: MONTENEGRO