02.01.2019: Capao Bonito / SP

02.01.:

the hotel-senor opens the gate for me and waits to say goodbye with a boa viagem.

I still see the gray-haired ponytail wearer waving at me and I honk as I pass by my workshop.

the vepse drives like butter - even when loaded. all tanks are full!

before my departure eldorado shows its best side, and I take a few more photos.

the morning fog slowly disappears

golden shower?

if we had known what was coming, we would have taken the easier route. the first section is as expected. I have driven it several times before because in this direction there is a waterfall and a few meters further the devil's height.

a little bumping, but then the road shows its best side. freshly asphalted, and we make good progress. I admire the landscape and because there is little traffic, I even notice the spicy smells from the forest.

but then, when we cross the ribeira river, it's suddenly over. I don't think this is our route and I ask at the gas station just to be sure. Does this road continue to apai? yes. Is the road soon paved? no.

there is no way around it. let's venture into the adventure. this is the perfect road for off-road vehicles with ground clearance and good tires. but not for 12-inch tires. the SUVs overtake me and leave behind dense clouds of dust. the oncoming cars too. I drive slowly. very slowly. we have slippery gravel, potholes, only once a fallen mountain, but its remains have already been cleared, twice a road that only has one lane left. the other one has already said goodbye to the valley. I wonder if trucks drive here?

I'm grateful for every bridge we can cross and remember when we had to push the vepse over the guardrail twice with three men.

we have to hold out for 45 km. will it get better afterwards?

we drive through a nature reserve that attracts with hiking trails and waterfalls. there are accommodations and campsites.

I feel almost like in the Andes. bumpy dirt roads and slopes that we can only take at 20 to 30 km/h.

after maybe two hours there is a viewpoint. the vepse has to be refueled anyway and I need to stretch my legs. it's worth it.

It's not that bad...

I've been watching thick clouds that look like thunderstorms on this bumpy stretch of road the whole time. I don't let it bother me, but then thick drops suddenly fall from the sky. fortunately, I stored the rain pants and anorak in the side cases this morning, so I only get a little wet. I take a photo of the vepse and the road. it doesn't show what it has put us through.

the villages we drive through boast smooth asphalt when we enter and awaken the hope that the pleasant part of the tour is about to start. but when leaving, I already see the reddish sand traces of the oncoming cars and know: it will continue.

but then we reach apai and the road forks. there is a solid asphalt surface again and while passing by, I can briefly see a sign pointing to curitiba. but nothing more, only sao paulo. the road is new. it goes up and down, it is very curvy and the truck drivers seem to know their vehicles so well that they apparently do not have to fear tipping over in the narrow right turns... I do and keep to the far right.

many motorcyclists come towards me, honking and waving. the numerous curves and the now dry road surface make them in a good mood.

my navigation system does not recognize the route. I am no longer sure if I missed an exit. although sao paulo was signposted twice before, I don't want to go there anymore.
but I know that this road we are now driving on leads to the BR 116 highway, which should take me to curitiba.
still, there remains a bit of uncertainty.

I am relieved of the uncertainty at the next gas station stop. I have network again and I am in the right direction.

If I had a canthina today, I would have driven for another hour for sure. but now hunger strikes, and black clouds announce themselves again.

I finish work at half past three. the navigation system tells me about a hotel that looks very fancy. it is listed with 80 €. 240 reais!! I still drive there, ask the receptionists dressed in a fancy hotel uniform and already know that there is no negotiating room here. but I remember the hotel aquarius, which I caught a glimpse of from the corner of my eye. I say goodbye and drive carefully through the elegant, freshly mowed park back to the main road.

the aquarius has very moderate room rates and rooms of 3-star quality. there is a restaurant 30 meters further.

after check-in - I am allowed to leave the vepse under the roof of the hotel entrance - I look at the route for tomorrow.

and I am shocked: there are still 262 km - that's ok - but the travel time is given as just under 5 hours, so with an average speed of only 50 km/h. I expect the worst, but the reception manager says the road is asphalted but has many curves.

when I look at the overview map, I realize that a few days ago I was already closer to curitiba...

regardless! the vepse did a good job.

the roads cannot get worse than today. in terms of landscape, it was definitely worth it.