E phatlaladitšwe: 21.03.2024
After the strong wind has finally and fortunately (in Susi's opinion) stopped, we set off to further explore Tenerife (hereinafter "TF" like the corresponding Spanish license plate). Our route takes us up the east coast, past very small towns that nestle on the rocks between the TF-1 coastal highway and the Atlantic Ocean. The Anaga Mountains begin just behind the capital Santa Cruz de Tenerife. We find an incredible parking space deep down on the small beach of Las Gaviotas, where you are almost alone at night on the water, just a few steps from the roaring Atlantic. The waves are so loud that we have to get used to the constant noise at night. In the morning we get out of bed and look directly at the sunrise over the Atlantic!
The next day we go on a bike tour further into the Anaga Mountains. At the very end of the mountain road is the small town of Igueste, less than 10 km as the crow flies from Santa Cruz, but it feels like 1.00 km. There is no shop, no cafe, no restaurant, simply nothing in this sleepy town. From Igueste a sentiero (hiking trail) leads up into the Anaga Mountains. With every step and meter of altitude the vegetation changes until we almost reach the low-lying clouds. On the way back we take a closer look at Igueste. Narrow paths lead through the town, there are only a few streets.
At one point we think that the path ends on private property and we don't dare to go any further. We are approached from behind and a young man with a child in his arms explains to us that the “publico” path is public. We ask him if there might be a café down by the beach. No, not that, but he would be Sergio and would love to make us a coffee! He proudly shows us his little house on the steep slope and treats us to espresso. Bananas grow in his garden, and we are promptly given some to eat (much tastier than any German supermarket banana!). Then a few stalks of a mint plant, which is supposed to be good against everything. We ask him about his work and Sergio tells us that he works for the Policia National in Santa Cruz and was transferred here from Madrid. Incidentally, we would be happy to park our bikes in his garden today or later when we go hiking here again. We also get some hiking tips. We are amazed by so much spontaneous hospitality and wonder if we could experience something like that somewhere in Germany...?
Rewinding a few days again: the northeast trade wind blessed us surfers for many days. But at times it was so windy that windsurfing was almost unthinkable (the limit between fun and hard work is 8 Bft). Even at night the wind hardly let up, so we often go to the west coast to sleep, where there is almost no wind. A fascinating island: In one day, within 60 minutes by car, it is easily possible to experience raging storms and calm winds, meter-high waves and glassy water, desert and jungle, boiling hot and freezing cold, sun and rain and beaches and high mountains!
After a few days on the lonely beach of Las Gaviotas, it's time for shopping and washing. We do this in San Cristobal de La Laguna (called “La Laguna” for short), above Santa Cruz. Our app Park4Night takes us to a parking lot (and place to stay overnight) in a beautiful park (with a public BMX track for the kids, skate park, climbing rocks, sports equipment and a lot more, like so many Spanish parks). Everything public, free, well used and properly maintained. Here too the question is, how many such parks are there in Germany...?
The old town of La Laguna dates back to the 15th century and is not a world heritage site for nothing. Together with the many students and the associated tapas bars and pubs, the result is a really great atmosphere. La Laguna is already at 700 m altitude. It gets very cold in the evenings, unfortunately we left our "summer down" in the motorhome.
From La Laguna we will go through the Anaga Mountains to the beach of Benijo on the north shore of TF. We know the road there from last year. She was already quite adventurous with a small rental car. On the very narrow and winding pass roads, some of which are located on narrow ridges, you're always hoping that the bus won't come towards you. Then it gets really tight and in an emergency one of them has to back up into the next alternative bay (and that's not the bus...). We leave very early in the morning to have as little traffic as possible. The descent to Benijo from around 1,000 m above sea level with what feels like 100 curves and the constant view of the Atlantic is certainly one of the most spectacular roads in the world (the bus didn't come towards us until a few days later on the return journey)!
At Playa de Benijo or Playa del Almaciga we are right on the beach. From the sliding door you can look directly at the huge crests of waves that roll in ceaselessly from the Atlantic. The waves come in so-called "sets", so that some very high waves and then lower waves always alternate. There are a lot of surfers here and I also venture out with my bodyboard. The next day the waves are so high (approx. 3 m) that it is no longer possible to surf in this bay. The waves break “close-out”, that is, all at once. The noise is literally deafening. We go hiking on a hiking trail high above the Atlantic. The path is not entirely without problems, you should have hiking poles with you. Sure-footedness on partially exposed paths is an advantage. The highlight of the hike is the “Selfie Rock” (as it is called), similar to Preikestolen in Norway, but fortunately not as busy.
After three days on this dream beach, the wind calls again and we head back through the mountains to the east coast to El Medano for windsurfing. Fortunately, we can see the bus coming towards us in the mountains from afar and we can tactically and cleverly head for an alternative bay in good time... ;-)
Here we also meet our friends again who, like us, used the windless time to take a "vacation" from their vacation. Together we go on the water and into the mountains on our bikes.
SEQUEL FOLLOWS