Where the pepper grows

After a rather uneventful workday, we make our way to Kampot. After about 4 hours on the bus, we arrive in the center of Kampot. We meet Mark, a Canadian who luckily has Google Maps with an offline map on his phone and is heading in the same direction as us. Feeling a bit disoriented, we try to find our way to the hostel, which is located right by the river outside of the center. Finally, we arrive at "Banyon Tree" where the German manager informs us that our reservation got lost and she unfortunately doesn't have any more sleeping accommodations for us, but she has already organized an alternative hostel. Nevertheless, we decide to have dinner there on the terrace and enjoy the view of the river. In the end, we are allowed to stay because a couple kindly moves together for one night, making space for us in the 20-bed dorm (5 bunk beds on each side of the bamboo hut). On Fridays, there is live music and a party at the hostel, and we regret not moving to the alternative hostel because despite earplugs and being tired, we can hardly sleep. In addition, there are nocturnal activities in the lower level of Lilly's bunk bed, which make the bed shake.

Not particularly well-rested but glad that the night is finally over, we jump into the river and then have a leisurely breakfast on the terrace. Each trip to the "bathroom" brings great joy, as there are always bigger and smaller surprises waiting, but we won't say more about that. We book a tuk-tuk through the hostel, whose driver shows us around all day. We start with a huge traffic jam because apparently, everyone wants to go to the beach due to Chinese New Year. Our tuk-tuk driver takes it with humor and tries to maneuver skillfully through the city (all tuk-tuk drivers are extremely talented at that). We pick up Mark at a quick stop, and then we drive for a while through the countryside, passing salt fields where "flower salt" is produced, and vast fields. Our destination is "La Plantation" (http://kampotpepper.com/). Right at the entrance to the plantation, there is even a small kiosk where all tuk-tuk drivers pass the time while their passengers become pepper connoisseurs. And so do we, a 40-minute tour with pepper tasting is free - hot stuff! We learn that all types of pepper come from the same plant:

Green pepper: unripe berry that is not dried; red pepper: first stage of ripeness, dried; white pepper: first stage of ripeness, peeled and dried; black pepper: final stage of ripeness, dried.

Our next stop is the so-called Elephant Cave. A tour guide approaches us, he is 11 years old and in a hurry. The 5-minute tour ends in a pagoda (where else?), where a monk ties red bracelets around our wrists and then blesses us. At least, we hope so, because we didn't understand him and he seemed very bored during the "blessing".

Next stop: Kep Fishmarket. Among crabs, octopuses, and already grilled sea creatures living in huge water tanks, we buy something refreshing to drink and enjoy the evening sunrays at the promenade.

The beach in Kep is not far either, but due to heavy traffic here as well, we end up in probably the most pleasant traffic jam we have ever experienced: with the evening sun in our faces, we look at the sea, which is within reach, and feel like we're in a sun lounger in the tuk-tuk. There is not much sand to be seen on the beach, so many people are there. The whole family is present, and everyone is enjoying the start of the new year.

In the dark, we drive back to Kampot, where we end the day with a delicious meal.

The night from Saturday to Sunday is surprisingly quiet, probably because everyone is exhausted from the party on Friday. After a relaxing morning on the idyllic sun terrace, we get into the minibus to Phnom Penh. Luckily, we don't suffer from claustrophobia. The bus is fully booked, even the emergency seats in the aisle have to be unfolded. Legroom? Unfortunately, no, not at all. Our double seat resembles more of a rocking chair, and we doubt that it is still connected to the bus. Our travel speed is definitely not adapted to the road conditions (for the dentists: it feels like sitting on a vibrating chair). This time, we end up in the most unpleasant traffic jam.

After about six (intended three) long hours, we finally arrive back in our city.