6.1.2018: Denniston - A tactile mining history

Actually, I had crossed Denniston off my list, but because there are so few free activities in the vicinity of Westport, I decided to choose this place for a half-day trip. Once again, it's all about gold, but this time it's black.

For decades, New Zealand's largest coal mine was operated here (13 million tons between 1879 and 1967). Once home to over 1,500 people, Denniston is now a ghost town. Information boards and pictures give an insight into the lives of the residents back then. The living conditions were extremely poor: people lived in weather-vulnerable corrugated iron huts on a plateau where dense fog often hung for weeks and it drizzled most of the time. Furthermore, the soil was not suitable for vegetable cultivation. This bleakness was probably one reason for the suicides mentioned on the information boards. There is even a poem from that time:

'Damn Denniston

Damn the track

Damn the way both there and back

Damn the wind and damn the weather

God damn Denniston altogether'

There isn't much left of the former buildings, but there are plenty of original rusty equipment, mine cars, and even lumps of coal. What would end up in a museum or at least behind a fence with us is freely accessible here and can be inspected during a short walk.

I don't meet any tourists. Almost exclusively pick-ups are parked in the car park, and one or two people are walking their dogs. Judging by the accents, the few visitors are all Kiwis. So it's a real insider tip.

Since the day is still young after I finish my tour, I make an unplanned stop: Cape Foulwind and the seal colony a few kilometers away. The lighthouse located at the cape is not particularly impressive, but the fantastic weather invites you to take great photos of the sea and the surrounding area.

The fur seal colony is just a few kilometers away and can be observed from a viewing platform. Of course, the real stars are the seal pups. Before heading back to the hostel in Westport, I treat myself to a big scoop of cookies & cream at the ice cream stand - mmh, so delicious!