Walking Jerusalem

Monday, December 23rd

7:30 am. Hanni and I enjoy the big breakfast buffet again and then sit in the comfortable hammocks in the hostel with our laptops for a while. This is a really nice place to be. Afterwards, we meet up with Radek, Ian has already left early in the morning, and stroll with him to the market again in wonderfully beautiful weather to get some snacks.

For the first time since we've been in Jerusalem, I notice today the military presence. And it's extremely noticeable. Whole groups of young soldiers pass by us time and time again. Extremely young, which is probably because young men and women in Israel have to start military service after school at the age of 18 - men for three years, women for two. It's really unsettling to see such young people heavily armed. So unsettling that I can't really grasp it as reality, which is probably a good thing.

We continue walking to the Garden Tomb, which is located next to the Damascus Gate outside the Old City. Although archaeologists consider it rather unlikely (most assume the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to be the "true" burial site), some Christians believe that the ancient tomb is the burial place of Jesus. We are greeted at the entrance by two nice ladies and then walk through the beautifully laid out garden. On one side of the garden, you have a view of the rock which some Christians believe to be Mount Golgotha because of its skull-like shape. We pass by several tour groups, some of which hold masses at different small squares in the garden, and then walk to the other side where we can enter the small rock tomb through an opening. We will probably never know who was actually buried here a long time ago.

After seeing everything, we make our way back to the Western Wall. According to Radek, there is an underground system of catacombs below the plaza that he would like to see. But when we arrive at the entrance of the catacombs, we realize that we would have needed a reservation. Plan B: the City of David.

The City of David is the most important archaeological site of biblical Jerusalem, located next to the Dung Gate outside the Old City. On this site, you can see archaeological excavations from the Jerusalem of the last centuries. One special find: the underground water supply system, which can still be seen here. You can even walk through the tunnel that is still filled with water, but today I prefer to skip it - after all, the water is 70 cm deep at the deepest points, and I want to come back with dry pants. Hanni and Radek are more adventurous, though, and choose the wet option instead. But the dry Canaanite Tunnel that I choose is also very nice.

We meet up again later at the Jaffa Gate, where we say goodbye to Radek, who is now traveling further to Bethlehem, and make our way to the Western Wall once again. By chance, we see that there is a Hanukkah celebration taking place there today: in front of the Western Wall stands a large Hanukkah menorah, with 2 of the 8 candles already lit, and Orthodox Jews are praying in Hebrew. In between, there is music and dancing on the plaza in front of the Wall. Hanni and I watch the lively activities until the plaza slowly empties, and then quickly climb the outer city wall of the Old City. Yesterday we discovered a place from which you can climb stairs onto a path on the city wall, which we now visit to admire Jerusalem and its surroundings at night once again. This city simply looks beautiful at any time of day.

Afterwards, we have falafel in a cozy restaurant in the Old City and then make our way back to the hostel. Tonight, we have a different roommate for the first time. Sonja from Berlin.