Abancay, Peru

Abancay, a small town in the mountains, full of surprises. 'Are you really getting off here, not going further to Cusco?' the people ask us as we get off the bus. No, a couchsurfer who has a treehouse entices us here. La casa en los arambols is very beautiful! We like it a lot! We have been living here in the treehouse with Octa for a few days now. A treehouse that is built entirely of recycled materials and is constantly inhabited by many funny, very nice, versatile artists. Octa is a couchsurfer who simply loves having people around him, hosting them, and loves bringing cultures together. His passion is to do something for the youth culture in the area, so children, dogs, and people from the village come and go here. It is very enriching and relaxing here, and we can feel free. The first few days we hang around in the hammocks, relax, and I recover from my cold. It's really a dream to meet people like this here, including Rage, a guy who travels on foot... He has walked several thousand kilometers, unimaginable. He is French and actually lives in a treehouse, without electricity and running water. There are also Colombians, Argentines, and Ecuadorians here, who sell trufers, clown, sell jewelry, and make a living from music. Together we cook and try to communicate, which is still not so easy for me. But well, language is not everything. The days here are characterized by making music, being creative, and relaxing - which we are pretty good at. Yesterday we went to the natural hot springs nearby. After planning it for several days, it was finally time. Well-strengthened and packed with sleeping bags, we set off somewhat later than planned. With the collectivo, we went to the vicinity of the Puente Pachachaca, from where our trip started. Octa gave us directions, which, as it turns out, are not as clear in the dark as they seem. After searching for a while, we finally find the bridge, which incidentally is also a kind of landmark here. We have definitely already seen it in several pictures. We continue towards the hot springs. After half an hour, we come to a sign that apparently indicates the way, and after searching and not finding the springs, we decide to smoke one. So close to the destination, we can't give up, we are very close. Without backpacks, we look around in the moonlight and try to find the way. Okay, go down to the flowing river. And now what? Along the steep bank full of stones, at night, and with a backpack, quite a challenge! On the way, I suddenly find myself with one foot in the water up to my ankle. Where are we even going? Judging by the smell, we are really close. Backpacks down again, climb, sniff, and check it out! Iris is the queen of the day! She has found the springs. A little further along the canyon, climbing over rocks, climbing up a mineral stone, and wow, hard to believe but we are there. Equipped with firewood and pisco, we throw our stuff in a pile, undress, and quickly find ourselves in a hot natural bathtub. Below us, the flowing river, next to us sparkling mineral stones, and above us, the almost full moon. It is indescribable, truly incredible!! We spend hours in the water, then there's a bonfire, and suddenly we hear someone approaching. Wow, our friends from the treehouse are also coming! We make music and soon go to bed in our sleeping bags, on the small patch of dry earth here. The others are actually sleeping in the hot springs! The next morning, eyes open and yes, exactly, into the bathtub for the next puhhh at least three hours. We almost look like animals, so we let our thoughts wander, nod off repeatedly, and enjoy this incredibly beautiful place. To wrap up, we take a refreshing dip and do a little swimming in the green shimmering river at our feet. Back in the treehouse, we strengthen ourselves and soon fall into our floating beds in the light of the full moon! A bit excited because tomorrow we start a trip to the Inca city Quochequirau. In the late afternoon, we arrive in the town Kuñllia. In our backpacks, we have sleeping bags and food for the next few days. In the moonlight, we now hike 1,000 meters downhill for about 7 km! At first, it's still uphill, but towards the end, the pain increases, we keep slipping, and we're pretty exhausted. At least I am. 'Iris, this is the shittiest thing I have experienced so far on our journey, shittier than diarrhea' I can't say anything more to Iris! When we finally reach the bottom, I burst into tears from exhaustion, luckily I can lean on Iris. Hammocks hung up, a goodnight tea, and at four the alarm already rings. Let's go, 1,000 meters uphill to the ruins of Quochequirao. The path is quite challenging, steep, and really dangerous, but we can make it. After 4 hours of ascent, we catch a glimpse of the first signs of the ancient city. Of course, we don't want to pay anything and leave our backpacks in the bushes and continue our hike upwards. Our 'Machu Picchu' is shining in all its glory. Only a few other tourists wander around here, an Inca city almost for ourselves and for free, the effort has paid off. The view over the endless, extremely high mountains around us is a dream. And how the people built this city here, far away from everything, gigantic and very well preserved. Very few people undertake the journey here, but there is an official tour, which, however, starts from another place and lasts 4 days. In the afternoon, we go downhill again, 1,000 meters down to the canyon to the river, where we set up our camp for the night. Through the first jungle section, which is beautiful, through the dry steppe landscape, over rocky terrain and a dilapidated concrete structure, we reach the bridge after about 2 1/2 hours. Only now, in the light, we see how decayed it really is, fortunately, we both don't have a fear of heights! Done, on the other side, we take a bath in the green river, cook pasta over the campfire, and once again fall asleep at 8 o'clock under the full moon. What a day. We sleep a little longer than planned, pack up and oh no, the tough uphill climb back to Kiñullaia now follows! Oh no, just thinking about it makes me sick. The first meters are terrible, the whole body hurts, and the thought that it won't change for the next 4 or 5 hours... oh oh! Iris is quite fit and only complains a little, she eagerly trudges ahead on the steep path in the cliff face. When the sun comes out, we are both struggling. Millions of bites (from these damn mosquitoes everywhere) and burning heat on our bodies. We pant, sweat, and try to fight our way uphill. When we finally catch sight of shade, a longer break is really necessary. Just before the goal, which we reach half an hour later, after a half mega exhausting hour, we arrive in Kiuñalla! The locals welcome us with chicha naturale (disgusting beverage), but the people are really nice, we can't say no. We already spot Marion, a young Swiss woman who is writing her bachelor's thesis here in this mountain village. We can stay with her because our colectivo doesn't leave until 4 in the morning back to Abancay. It's like in a movie. The enormous mountains, the fog, the cows and donkeys, a person here and there taking care of them, quiet, actually not much, but what it is, is impressive. Nos gustan mucho! There is a mega storm, it is cold, and we lie under four alpaca wool blankets in a small bed. Quite beautiful, that has to be said! Once again, the alarm rings very early, and we go up to the 'main road' in this tiny village! Hop in the colectivo and back to Abancay to our beautiful home in the trees! The day here is really nice, making music, juggling, good food, what more do we need!