23.-27.05. - Viñales / Trinidad, Cuba

On May 23rd, we went to Viñales. We wanted to book the tour through an online booking agency, but we couldn't. We do have a Cuban SIM card (which tourists usually don't have), but you can't book things like that in Cuba (you also can't book Airbnbs and pay with PayPal, because all of that is shit from the US). Fortunately, Hans in Germany helped us out and booked the tour for us - thanks again! The tour went smoothly and was absolutely great. We were picked up in the morning and drove about three hours to Viñales. Once we arrived, we visited a tobacco plantation, learned how cigars are rolled, what quality criteria there are, which cigars are the best, and got to try them too. We also visited a big cave called Cueva del Indio. After that, we had lunch – there was more than enough food for 4 hungry stomachs (as long as the tourists are full, the locals can starve, right?). After lunch, we went to see a colorful painted rock wall (Mural prehistórico) and then headed home. The tour was really cool and worth it. By the way, our guide (Adrian) smoked like wet twigs on fire. But well, cigarettes only cost €0.60 here (for a pack).

On May 24th, we continued to Trinidad. Trinidad is located on the southern coast of Cuba and was recommended to us by several people. We organized a shared taxi (Taxi Compartido) for transportation. It was a van with room for 14 people (plus the driver), and it wasn't overcrowded. It arrived about half an hour late, and we were one of the last ones to be picked up. The seats were very uncomfortable, and the ride was exhausting. Once the van was full, we drove in the wrong direction for about 20 minutes to load 20 liters of fuel in some small village. But it wasn't for us. We stopped somewhere in the middle of the highway and dropped off the fuel at a small hut. Whatever. By the way, Cuba's highways are not only used by cars and trucks. Horses, bicycles, mopeds, MZs, and hitchhikers also use these roads. Hitchhikers are really everywhere in Cuba.

In Trinidad, we stayed at Tico and his wife Martha's house, both in their late 60s or mid 70s. They didn't try to speak slowly or clearly, which actually made communication much easier. Especially since Cuban Spanish has as much in common with Castilian Spanish as the last Austrian dialect has with Standard German. After we arrived, we strolled through the city, which didn't seem as beautiful as we thought it would be that day. I also went to a hairdresser in Trinidad, which was definitely necessary.

On May 25th, we spent the day relaxing on the beach. It was a Thursday, the beach was empty, a lounge chair cost €0.60 for the whole day, and you could get a Cuba Libre (approximately 60% rum, 40% mixer) for €1.70. The beach (Playa Ancón) was definitely one of the most beautiful ones we have ever seen. In the evening, we went to a very touristy restaurant. The food here is more expensive than in the local restaurants, we paid €32.50 for two appetizers, two main courses, and four drinks.

On May 26th, we booked a horseback riding tour. The horses, like many horses in Cuba, were very skinny and didn't look good. The "outward" part of the horseback riding tour took about two hours. Along the way, we stopped at a farmer's place where they grow coffee and tobacco. Of course, we could also try both, and the coffee was really good. I had to drink half of it with liquor, which I was afraid would make me blind, but other than that, it was great. We arrived at a waterfall where there was no water falling because it hadn't rained for a very long time (and if it did rain, it was too little). However, the pool under the waterfall was still filled, and the water had a pleasant temperature of 20°C (compared to the ocean). Afterwards, we rode the horses back to the city for another two hours. My butt still hurt four days later...

On May 27th (a Saturday), we went to the beach again. The beach was completely overcrowded, and everyone had their own music system blasting at full volume. It was really exhausting. Cuba Libre still cost €1.70, but there were no glasses, only plastic cups that could only hold half the usual amount. We bought two lounge chairs at a large beach hotel (€5 per chair) and at least had some peace and quiet.

By the way, there was a power outage in Trinidad on three of our four days there. That's relatively normal in Cuba and comes with the territory. So we occasionally had to pack our bags with the headlamp on...