Day 16 - Sounds of the Fjords: Milford Sound

My wishes came true, the first sound I heard after waking up was pouring rain. I immediately grabbed my phone to make sure that the weather in Milford Sound, 1.5 hours away, was just as wet, and I was delighted to find out that it was going to rain all day there too.
With this good news, we started the day. Breakfast, packing, checking out, and hitting the road.

The route was the same as the one to Lake Marian, just a few more kilometers. So the first part was rather boring. However, the few kilometers further to the departure point in Milford Sound were all the more impressive. It was raining heavily there, setting the stage for what was to come. Jagged cliffs on both sides, with countless small streams or even large waterfalls flowing into the valley.

We couldn't get enough of this view, but we had to keep going to avoid being late. But shortly after, another small adventure awaited us: the Homer Tunnel. A relatively small tunnel that resembles a mining shaft. Something like this would be unthinkable in Germany. Rough-hewn walls, sparsely lit, and water coming from above was haphazardly directed aside with sheets of metal. There were also no emergency exits or anything like that. A few fire extinguishers here and there were the only reminders of safety measures. Fortunately, this tunnel is only about 1km long, so we passed through it quickly.

After surviving the drive through the tunnel, we were greeted with a breathtaking sight as we emerged. Imagine driving through a valley, with towering cliffs on both sides and waterfalls gushing every 20 meters into the depths.
Oh, why imagine when we have a photo of it:

After leaving this (lovingly named) Waterfall Valley, we were almost at the starting point of the tour through Milford Sound. Upon arrival, it was time for check-in and boarding. It sounds very important, but it was basically just picking up the tickets and walking onto the ship...
Of course, we went straight to the top deck of the ship, staying outside to not miss any sights. Thanks to our rainproof gear, the constant rain was no problem at all (we spent the entire journey outside on deck, like real sailors).

Within the first few minutes of the cruise, the first waterfalls came into view, cascading down the mountains and feeding the Sound. And there were many more to come...

So we sailed through the Sound, listening to our guide tell us about Milford Sound and marveling at the temporary waterfalls on all sides. Temporary because the waterfalls apparently disappear a few hours after the rain stops. But that's not a problem because Milford Sound averages around 200 rainy days a year. It is one of the wettest places on Earth.

The waterfalls are not only beautiful to look at, but due to the frequent rainfall, a 3-4 meter layer of freshwater containing minerals from the mountains accumulates on top of the seawater in them. This layer acts like sunglasses for the saltwater below, allowing plants and animals that are normally found only in the deep sea to thrive at a depth of about 40 meters. However, we were advised not to spontaneously dive into the water, as it is very cold...

Countless waterfalls, a lot of rain, and two hours later, we were back at the harbor. A little bit chilled, but nice and dry, and very satisfied with our excursion, we headed back to the car.
We spent the rest of the day in the car, driving to Wanaka. It is our last stop before Queenstown and the starting point for the next two days.

In the evening, sitting in our accommodation, we could reflect on yesterday and today. At first, we didn't know which of the Sounds we wanted to visit, as both have excellent reviews. In order to make a final judgement, we simply decided to visit both. Now we have seen both, and it's not easy to say which one is the better choice.
For both of us, Milford (Sound) was much more interesting because it offered many new impressions and impressive waterfalls. Doubtful (Sound) didn't have that wow factor for us, but that could be because we have seen so much in the past few days and have become a bit desensitized.
Personally, I can't imagine that Doubtful would be anywhere near as impressive in the rain as Milford, as the forested slopes of Doubtful probably can't produce such beautiful waterfalls.
However, Doubtful must be acknowledged for the journey across Lake Manapouri and over the pass, which is an adventure in itself.
As a rough recommendation, I would suggest basing the choice between the two Sounds on the (unfortunately very difficult to predict) weather: definitely choose Milford if it's raining! On a sunny day, the green hills and expansive fjord arms of Doubtful are likely much more impressive than the barren cliffs of Milford. Ultimately, you can only get a true impression by visiting both. Because both are absolutely beautiful to look at!

But enough reporting, evaluating, and writing for now, it's time to call it a day. Tomorrow, we have our last hike in New Zealand. If I'm not at full strength, Tobi will surely leave me behind. With that said, good night and see you tomorrow!

Oh, and here are a few (more or less funny) facts:

1. Milford Sound is not named correctly, as a sound is actually formed by a river. The river erodes landmasses, creating a 'gap' that is filled with seawater.

However, Milford Sound (and Doubtful Sound) were formed by a glacier that shaped the land, making them technically fjords.

The reason they are called sounds is that at the time they were named, there was no such distinction in the English language. And so they are still called sounds today, just as they were named back then: Sounds!

2. The entrance to Milford Sound is hardly visible from the sea. This led to James Cook sailing past it twice without discovering the channel. He dismissed it as a small bay both times...

3. On the drive to Wanaka, we passed a police car chasing escaped sheep that had run onto the road. WITH FLASHING LIGHTS! (Just to clarify, it was the police car that had flashing lights, not the sheep. So there are no misunderstandings...)

(I know the last one is less of a fact, but it was definitely funny)