The Burren: Caherconnell Fort, Pulnabrone & more

12/06/2022

Yesterday, we bought the famous brown bread and are having breakfast in our cottage today. The house dog immediately came over when he saw us. Either he brings balls that he doesn't want to give away, or he lies on his back so that you can scratch him.

After breakfast, we set off shortly before half past ten and first head to Doolin to visit the three shops. Wool, jumpers, socks, and hats in abundance. Typical Aran knitwear. Unfortunately, they are mostly quite itchy.

We have to take a few socks and a hat with us. A visit to O'Connor Pub to watch and then we continue towards Kilfenora in the Burren.

The Burren area is practically next to Doolin and today we will be circling this fascinating area.

At the southern edge of the Burren lies Kilfenora. A sleepy town that offers a cathedral dating back to the 12th century.

Mostly ruins, it is now more like a museum. The surrounding cemetery is so crowded that you can only reach the church entrance by stepping on the graves. Particularly, some high crosses here are evidence of the Middle Ages.

Caherconnell Fort

This round fort dates back to the early Christian Iron Age, about 5000 years ago. Although it is called a fort, it was more like a protective wall around a family residence.

A grave of a woman and two children was found here, as well as burial gifts indicating a certain amount of wealth. This stone fort was probably continuously inhabited over the next 3000 years.

The stones inside the fort area are not originals, as they, along with other finds, are sent to a central location in Dublin for examination and archiving.

The outer wall was stacked by the inhabitants of the Iron Age and can be admired in its original form. Already here, we can see the first areas that make the Burren so typical. Lots of stones, little green.

Pulnabrone Dolmen

A visit to this approximately 5000-year-old megalithic tomb is a must. In the Stone Age, about two dozen people were buried here. The found bones indicate that all the tissue was removed before the burial. The age of the buried is estimated to be a maximum of 40 years.

The Burren

The entire area that we are driving through today is a geological marvel from the last Ice Age. The glaciers that descended here from north to south left clearly visible longitudinal grooves in the limestone of this plateau.

There are also huge boulders everywhere, and soon you see completely bare mountain tops. It almost looks like the moon here.

After the melting of the ice masses, seeds from Arctic plants remained here, and together with the also existing alpine and Mediterranean plants, they form a unique vegetation that unfolds its splendor between stones, in cracks, and in rock crevices, especially in spring.

Already in the 17th century, a general despondently said: 'No tree on which a man could be hanged, no pond in which he could drown, no earth in which he could be buried.'

We continue our journey towards the sea, first towards Ballyvaughan.

Tea Time in Ballyvaughan

In a fairy-tale-like café with a beautiful wild garden, we take a tea break. Unfortunately, not outside, even though the sun occasionally comes out.

But we are glad to sit behind a window. The tea is excellent, and of course, we also enjoy the obligatory scones.

Fanore Beach

We drive along the narrow coastal road with great views of the sea, while the stone desert of the Burren is beside us. Fanore Beach is a huge bay with great dunes and a wide beach.

Even surfers are probably on land by now. A relentless wind, which has been accompanying us since yesterday, blows from the sea, making 3-layer clothing, a scarf, and a hat essential.

Once again, The Burren

Shortly afterwards, we reach a stretch of coastline where you can walk from the road to the sea over these flat rock formations of the Burren. What a stark landscape!

We walk over the crack cut-looking rugged rocks as planned, in whose deep crevices, some grasses and flowers can be seen. In front of us, the sea roars and throws high waves against the cliffs.

It is already almost 7 PM when we head back to our cottage via Doolin. Today, we will have tomato soup from a packet with brown bread and cheese.