Obolon - Teremki - Lustdorf

After updating my grandparents on Sunday morning (June 2, 2019), I pack my things and clean up the beloved campsite at the foot of the Kiev Reservoir. With my four-legged companion, we head to Wyschhorod first, where I stop for a coffee and then continue south. It is quite warm again, so the nearly 15 km to the well-known campsite in Obolon seem like the appropriate distance for today. Over the weekend, I still haven't received a response from the embassy in Kiev regarding Rango's pet passport. Therefore, it is not 100% certain whether it is worth going to the German embassy the following day. However, I want to at least get close. We know the route, and so we reach the northern district of Kiev in the early afternoon. We take a break at a supermarket for a while, the Dicke (dog) is taken care of, and I upload some pictures. Then we make our way through Obolon. The district is an extensive panel housing estate with typical green, recreational, and service areas between the high-rise buildings. Only a bathing lake in the middle of the residential area seems rather unusual, especially since the beaches on the Dnepr River are just a stone's throw away. When we reach the peninsula north of Obolonska, I decide not to cross over for just one night and instead check out a beach on the main arm of the Dnepr River as a possible campsite. It looks good. We make ourselves comfortable in a shady spot to set up the tent, as there is still too much foot traffic. As dusk falls, the shoreline slowly empties, and I can make the final preparations for the night. Due to a small mosquito infestation, we quickly retreat under the tarp.

On Monday morning, we have sunshine at the tent and need to vacate the place. After a swim in the river and a bite to eat, I pack up our stuff and we set off. At the Obolon promenade, we have a coffee before heading towards Kiev's old town. Around half past nine, the email from the German embassy finally arrives, both passports are here - everything is fine. So, we cross Obolon for the last time heading south. We reach the Pochaina bus station via the Obolonski Boulevard and cross the nearby railway tracks, always heading towards the sun. At the foot of the hills in Jurkoviza, we rest for a while under shade-giving trees. The sun is quite intense, and the Dicke (dog) is struggling with the temperatures. After a good half an hour, we continue along Kostjantinivska Street towards the southeast and then up to old Kiev. At the German embassy, I collect the new passports, thank them, and head to Maidan with the Dicke. Here, we replenish our food reserves before climbing a small hill on the Dnepr Riverbank. According to my map, there is a water museum and a spot with access to drinking water. Of course, the public tap at the water museum is out of service. However, I find a nearby restaurant and do not have to go back into the city. So we can continue walking and reach the Truchaniv Island in the Dnepr River via the park bridge. Here, we have another coffee at the Central Market before heading to our campsite at the northern end of the central beach. I set up the tent and end the evening after the usual routine.

On Tuesday morning (June 4, 2019), after a swim and a small breakfast, I go to the Central Market for a coffee. I have to make a few phone calls to explore the options for the upcoming ferry ride to Georgia. Luckily, I can take the next ferry on Wednesday evening if I manage to get to Odessa by then. The first request on BlaBlaCar leads to a confirmation. Great thing. Now I just have to get to the suburb of Teremki by the evening (the agreed departure time is 9:00 pm). It's about 20 km to get there, and I could mostly travel through green areas. We would also pass by the cave monastery, it doesn't sound so bad at all. So back to the tent and pack up our stuff. After a final swim, we set off for the cave monastery about 5 km away. Since dogs are not allowed inside, I am content with the views I can catch from the outside of the complex. Orthodox sacred buildings, as usual. After strolling through a memorial to the Great Patriotic War, we have to stop briefly under a tunnel. It is raining heavily. Then we go through the Svirinetz villa district to Michaila Boichka Street, where we linger for a small snack. Cheese bread with kefir is tasty for both me and the Dicke (dog). We continue walking along the street down to Lisa Hill. We walk around it along its northwestern flank and finally reach the Golisivski Forest. Hidden in the center of the forest is a hidden monastery complex that we pass on our way southwest. It seems like a large prosperous community that apparently sells various products of its own production. After a short break for a drink, we continue westward and reach the satellite city of Teremki after a good 20 km around half past seven in the evening. I'm a bit tired from walking, refill our drinking water, buy a small dinner, and settle down at the agreed parking lot. Since my driver didn't respond to my last message and it's already shortly after nine, it slowly dawns on me that we might be left hanging. Unfortunately, I also fail to find a replacement for the night. Around midnight, I find a meadow in a small grove, set up the tent, and somewhat disappointedly retreat under the tarp.

On Wednesday morning, I pack up our camp again and go to the shopping center near the previous night's campground for breakfast. After coffee and pastries, I contact more potential drivers, initially without success. I sit under a parasol in front of the KFC, the battery is charging at an outlet, and Rango (dog) has found a shady spot. So, it's bearable. The day passes with reading, Duolingo, and regular research on BlaBlaCar until I finally get lucky in the late afternoon and can ride with Sergey to Odessa. He is a musician and on his way to some medical check-up for an engagement on a boat. The ride is quite entertaining, the young man speaks a little English, and has a very pleasant taste in music. He offers to take me to a campsite about 30 km north of Odessa and bring me to the city the next morning. That works for me.

So we reach Grigorevka Beach around one o'clock in the night on Thursday, June 6, 2019. We set up our tents, I take another swim, and after a cup of tea, it's off to bed. The alarm goes off at six, I get up slowly, pack my stuff, and, as agreed, I'm ready to leave. Sergey is also ready on time, and we set off for the drive to Odessa. An hour later, I can get off at the train station and make my way to Silpo for breakfast and coffee with Rango. After a short query with the ferry company, the next departure time for Friday evening is set. Since I am already supposed to be at the Borei building at nine in the morning for the tickets, I plan to stay somewhere closer to Chornomorsk. I take the tram to Lustdorf (a village founded by Germans during Katharina's time). We rest at a supermarket before heading to the beach. Here too, I wait a bit with setting up the tent due to excessive foot traffic, lie in the sun for a while, and take occasional swims. The sea itself is quite nice. After setting up the tent and having a small dinner, it's time for bed.