Whakaputaina: 06.07.2023
Don Curry is finishing an essential part of his journey today. The trip, which was originally planned for three countries, was reduced to two countries due to Azerbaijan's refusal. Don Curry will conclude the part in Armenia today and return to Georgia to explore the western part of the country intensively. If everything goes as planned.
A nicely set table was already waiting for Don Curry in a pleasant breakfast room: bread, sausage, cheese, various vegetables and fruits, yogurt, jams, cakes, and more; the omelette was freshly prepared for him when he arrived. Before leaving the nice city of Gyumri, he wanted to visit a small museum that had been closed on Monday. It is dedicated to the two sisters Mariam and Eranuhi Aslamasjan, who were born in Gyumri and were among the most important artists of the Soviet Union. Only a few paintings, graphics, and ceramic works from their extensive work are exhibited. Some of them resemble the style of Frida Kahlo in their bright colors and folk motifs, but completely lack her obsessive self-representation. After the culinary breakfast at Villa Kars, this artistic breakfast provided the necessary complement for a good start to the day. After Don Curry spent his last dram in a supermarket, he spontaneously set off for the border.
He still caused himself one more stress factor. Xerra's fuel gauge was very close to 'E' like 'empty'. But since the yellow warning light was not yet on, Don Curry thought he would have to refuel after the border; in Georgia, super fuel is qualitatively better and also cheaper. So he started. It was already warning next to the fuel gauge shortly after leaving Gyumri. How many kilometers would the fuel last now? He didn't know. Another 50 km had to be covered until the border. Ten kilometers before the border, Don Curry finally found a gas station where he wanted to refuel at least 20 liters to be in the safe zone. But the gas station didn't accept card payment, and Don Curry had no more Armenian money. The gas station attendant pointed to the road towards the border, and Don Curry deduced from that that there would be another gas station with card acceptance. But that was not the case. Maybe the gas station attendant simply meant that he should refuel in Georgia.
The border crossing was much better and more modernly equipped than its counterpart a week ago. Here there were even two car lanes where one could drive directly to the inspection counters. Only for customs control, one had to get out and open the trunk. The Georgian customs officer was very precise and had Don Curry's luggage brought to the luggage scanner for screening. Everything went quickly and without problems, but there was no gas station at the border. According to GoogleMaps, there would only be an opportunity to refuel in the next city 30 km away. Another 30 km? Would Xerra make it? Don Curry tried to drive as fuel-efficiently as possible. After 20 km, a gas station suddenly appeared on the side of the road that GoogleMaps did not know. There was no super fuel, but Don Curry simply let 10 liters of regular gasoline run into the tank. With that, this self-caused adventure was over. In the city, Don Curry filled the tank with super gasoline to the brim.
It had already started to drizzle in Armenia. Menacing black-gray clouds hung over the green hills of Javakheti in southern Georgia. Don Curry decided to avoid the shortcut to the Wardzia Monastery over many kilometers of dirt roads and instead take the asphalt road around the hills. Just before Wardzia, heavy rain actually started, lightning illuminated the deep black afternoon sky, and thunder rumbled in the distance. The cave monastery of Wardzia is one of Georgia's most important cultural treasures. However, it can only be explored on steep footpaths and numerous stairs on and in the cliff face. Don Curry did not want to expose himself to this in pouring rain. So he turned around in the parking lot and drove towards his next destination.
On the way, he passed through the area where the storm had showered heavily. Mountains of white hail masses lined the road, sloping side roads turned into rushing streams. Spontaneous waterfalls formed everywhere, and at some points, newly formed lakes covered the entire road. For the weighty and high-legged Xerra, all of this was no problem, and Don Curry was glad that he did not have to drive through this storm zone with a normal car. It poured continuously almost the entire way. It wasn't until shortly before the destination city Achalziche that the bad weather subsided.
Here Don Curry turned up to the Sapanta Monastery high in the wooded mountains. Since it was still drizzling, he remained the only visitor. An unmistakable prohibition sign for photography hung on the church door, and a supervising monk sat in the church. Splendid medieval wall frescoes have been preserved in Sapanta, which are among the most beautiful in the country. When the monk tiredly let his head sink onto the table in front of him, Don Curry took it as tacit permission to take pictures. The monk simply didn't want to see it. Satisfied, Don Curry returned to Achalziche, where he was once again greeted by a rather unusual hotel. It was built in the outer courtyard of the huge Rabati fortress above Achalziche and blended in with its oriental style. The rooms were purely functional but offered a beautiful view of the oriental courtyard and some of the fortress towers.
When the sun unexpectedly broke through, Don Curry asked if the fortress could still be visited at 6:00 p.m.? Don Curry got a ticket and climbed the steps to the inner courtyard. In the extensive complex, which one gradually discovers through more and more stairs, an especially former mosque impresses, whose roof was recently gilded. There are also other buildings and garden areas in oriental style, a church, a museum, and a mighty defensive tower with the Georgian flag flying above it. Don Curry took his time to explore everything calmly and even to climb to the top tower, which offered wide views over Achalziche and the surrounding landscape. The fortress was possibly renovated more beautifully than it had ever been, but its many picturesque components are a feast for every photographer.
After the descent, Don Curry thought it was time for a good dinner. He ordered the regional Javakhian specialty Tatarberak, as well as the special recommendation of the house 'Gino Special' and fried potatoes as a side dish, all accompanied by a Borjomi water and a bottle of Rkatsiteli, which he would take with him. Only when it was served did Don Curry realize that he had ordered calorie bombs. Tatarberak consists of farfalle-like noodles in a butter-yogurt sauce, which can then be crowned with garlic in oil, fried onions in oil, and sour cream. Delicious but frighteningly filling. But when 'Gino Special' arrived at the table, Don Curry was truly surprised. In front of him was a frying pan-sized baking dish, under whose thick layer of cheese, sliced veal with bacon cubes, mushrooms, and onions in a powerful butter-cream sauce, all surrounded by fried potato slices and garnished with tomatoes. Certainly one of the spiciest and most delicious dishes on this journey, but Don Curry had to surrender after eating only half of it. After a Chacha to fight fat, he went to his room to wait for darkness to set in. Then he set off again to appreciate the now photogenically illuminated fortress from all possible perspectives.
Full and satisfied, he had arrived back in Georgia. Even though he had to postpone the Wardzia Monastery for the next day, there was still enough exciting, worth seeing, and above all enjoyable things left for this day.