Aufgesattelt - off to Uzbekistan 22

Dear friends, 14 days ago I sent my last report, unfortunately without pictures. This time I'm luckier and can send you some impressions. After Tbilisi, we took a taxi up the Caucasus. When we ordered the taxi, they said it wouldn't be a problem to transport bicycles, but it became one. Stephan and I were squeezed into the back seats and Stephan's bike was strapped to the roof with just a piece of cardboard. But both bikes survived the ordeal. The ride was a dream, the snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus getting closer and closer. If it were up to us, we could have stopped constantly to take a photo. At the first stop, we visited a small old chapel with many other tourists. It was very impressive because there were still very old frescoes. The next stop was a large platform from where we had a fantastic view into the depths and into the mountain range. Then, after a 3-hour drive, we arrived in Stepantsminda. In front of our hotel (which didn't deserve the name, there was no comfort, bad beds, and a catastrophic bathroom), we had a fantastic view (still partly in the clouds) of the pilgrimage church and Kazbeg, the second highest mountain in Georgia. After a coffee and a bite to eat, we visited the village, which was not very big and had nothing special to offer. After a simple meal, we went back and played Yahtzee and cards until late at night. In the morning, we woke up very early and were thrilled with our view: a bright blue sky, the snow-covered Kazbeg shining brightly, and in front of it on a hill the pilgrimage church. Despite the morning cold, we stood fascinated and took photos. After a nice breakfast in a converted bus, we started our ascent to the church. It was a wonderful little hike through nature. First, we passed a small farming village that is being developed for tourism. I think it won't be as idyllic in the summer. We chose the longer and more comfortable route, partially crossing a small forest, walking through green meadows where cows grazed without fences. As we later saw, they also walk back to the village on their own and moo in front of the door where they live. We climbed our goal, the pilgrimage church, over a dirty ice slope. Before the tourist buses from Tbilisi arrived, we were able to enjoy the church and the magnificent view. It was simply beautiful, the view, the power of the mountain range, and the tranquility. Now I can understand more and more the people who are drawn to the mountains again and again. The descent, we chose the shorter route, was steep and we had to be careful not to slip on the narrow path. We spent our last evening in Georgia with Regina and Reinhard in a restaurant with fantastic food. It was the best meal I've had.Am. The next morning, after packing up and mounting our bikes, having breakfast and saying goodbye, we finally set off again. Even though the sky was gray and it was lightly raining, we were happy to start cycling again. Since it was mostly downhill, we cheered. The road was bad but empty, and there were several tunnels, some of which were poorly or not illuminated (I wasn't too comfortable with that, but I closed my eyes and went through). Then finally came the border. We were very early, but that changed quickly because the customs officers made a small state ceremony out of the visas. Stephan had to go with an officer, and I sat there and waited for him for almost two hours without knowing what was happening. The other officers were very nice to me, but I wasn't allowed to enter the building. Since you always hear such creepy stories, I imagined the worst scenarios. Finally, he came and we were allowed to continue. The sun came out, the road was great, and it really only went downhill, simply wonderful to ride. If the Caucasus in Georgia was snow-covered, it is wooded and green in Russia. After 2.5 hours, we completed the 40 km and arrived in Vladikavkaz. We stayed at a hotel with authentic Soviet charm. We had a good dinner in the evening, and then the first night in Russia slept.Am. The next day we continued towards Elista, 480 km away. We drove on a highway-like road with many cars, trucks, and crazy drivers for a while, which we didn't enjoy. Luckily, there was an unpaved shoulder that we could occasionally use. But we quickly got to experience the kindness of the people. Some cars stopped, and the drivers wanted to talk to us, asking where we come from, where we are going, how old we are, why we are doing this, and they took photos of us and Stephan received a talisman as a gift. Finally, we were able to leave this noisy road and it became really quiet around us, a delight after the constant "whoosh, whoosh, whoosh". At a small market (the selection was not very big), we bought cabbage, tomatoes, carrots, garlic, onions, and water, and then we looked for a place to sleep, which we soon found.We were not as lonely as we thought and people passed by constantly, wanting us to stay with them, warning us about snakes and bad people, actually just wanting contact with us and taking photos over and over again. Finally, the sun set and we had our peace, although we were a bit uneasy after these warnings. It is still bitterly cold at night, and without my hot water bottle and Stephan's thick sweater, I wouldn't have been able to sleep. But soon we fell asleep and nothing happened. The next few days we continued towards Elista, which took us a total of 7 days, and they were very different. Cycling was very strenuous, we constantly felt our luggage, we had headwinds almost all the time, and when it was a bit better, the wind came from the side, always strong and with many gusts, and it was all uphill and downhill. Unfortunately, uphill always lasted longer. Only on the third day did we get somewhat used to it. But on this route, we got to know great people who helped us, supported us, and provided for us. We were allowed to stay in a garden of a chubby guy, after being introduced to the whole family, we were served borsch, and when we set up our tent by a lake, a nice woman brought us a mountain of food because there was nothing left in the shop where we wanted to buy something. We found wonderful places to sleep, once by the stream, by the lake, under small groups of trees, and we always heard the most diverse bird chirping. During the day, it got really hot, but we didn't notice it too much because of the strong wind. It was still very cold at night. On our journey, the small forests and groups of trees became fewer and fewer. At the beginning, there were large fields of grain and rapeseed, but about 100 km before Elista, there was only steppe that was swept by the wind. No water, no bushes, it will become the next desert, created by humans once again. Now we have been in Elista since yesterday, the only Buddhist city in Europe. We feel like we're in China because the people have a Mongolian touch. Genghis Khan passed through here 750 years ago. There are many temples, statues, and pagodas here. We really like Russia, we are enthusiastic about the people and their unobtrusive friendliness. They give us a lot and expect nothing in return. I always think: how do we behave towards foreigners? There is hardly any support from our side, which often makes me pensive while cycling. Even though we fight against the wind and curse the hills, we are happy to be here. When it gets really bad, we hitchhike and it works. Sometimes we get a ride in a bus, sometimes in a bakery truck. We're doing well, and we are healthy and lively. Tomorrow we will continue to Astrakhan. Stephan is a wonderful guide, he speaks almost perfect Russian. If that doesn't help, Google Translate does. He guides me safely through this country, and I'm really happy to travel with him. We hope you are all doing as well as we are and that you have a beautiful month of May. It would be nice if you could briefly let me know if you received the email. Greetings from us, the cyclists Corrina and Stephan