Publicēts: 09.01.2019
9th January:
a last photo from my window with a view of the morning sun in Curitiba.
I have plenty of fruit for breakfast today. I woke up early to have enough time for a hearty breakfast. I treat myself to three or four servings of honeydew melon, watermelon, and delicious papaya. The Brazilians love sweet cakes and some fruit for dessert, I calm my slowly rebellious conscience. The scrambled eggs are fresh and not burnt. Waking up early was worth it.
Good morning, Curitiba
I am ready to check out just after 10:00 am. I ask for two bottles of water and try to say goodbye when the lady politely tells me that there is still a bill to pay. It turns out that using the hotel garage is charged separately. I am a bit annoyed because that was not clear in the offer. If they had wanted to deduct the amount right away, I could have decided. But now it feels like renegotiation...
I get out of the city easily, no traffic jams, good roads, and the sky is still cloudy.
There are a lot of trucks on the road. They are all heading to Paranagua.
It is technically a highway, but I am not bored.
The further south I go, the more evident it becomes that our German ancestors settled here. Smaller and medium-sized businesses located along the highway have German names. It is unusual for me to read German again. It was the same when I drove out of São Paulo. There were big signs with different advertising messages everywhere, even in the wooded hills, and Boehringer Ingelheim was also represented. Seeing 'Ingelheim' and the familiar logo from my childhood was surprising and made me aware of how far away I am.
On the way, the wasp resumes its catwalk appointments. I curse a few times because I am about to overtake a car on the left lane when it starts to slow down and the passenger holds up a sign. That ruins my overtaking maneuver.
Later, at lunch in the cantina, I am approached twice. They saw me on the highway and ask the usual questions.
The Sierra Verde, which is also a protected nature reserve, boasts many high mountains. But they are not difficult for me because the highway was built into the valley.
The climate on the peninsula is described as subtropical. I only notice that at one of the next breaks.
Finally, the sign says that there are only 20 km left. I am surprised. I have been driving well and the Vespa has been economical. The correct tire pressure makes a difference.
I don't want to stay here! But first, I want to go to the beach and greet the Atlantic Ocean. What a memorable moment!!!
WE HAVE TRAVELED THROUGH SOUTH AMERICA FROM THE PACIFIC TO THE ATLANTIC IN 12' AND WITH A 125 cc VESPA!
There should be popping champagne corks.
And now we are at the beach. The Vespa facing the water. To the left of us is the Villa Real hotel with a great view of the sea. The halved mountains are forgotten.
Should I treat myself to that? But then I see the room rates, which exceed everything I have seen so far at 300 reais. No! booking.com doesn't help either. My mood sinks. There must be affordable rooms for the average Brazilian. I enter the term 'pousada' - roughly translated as guesthouse - and I feel at home again. 65 reais per night. Not directly on the beach and not here, but 25 km away. However, the house looks promising, and the blue target point is not far from the beach on the map. Dunas - that's the name of the house.
And it is true! It is located in the dunes and is only a fifteen-minute walk from the beach.
At the edge of the dunes
Finding it is difficult. But finally, the owner of a bakery helps me. It turns out that his grandfather came from Germany to Brazil after World War I. The 'baker' - he is actually a floor layer - grew up here but worked in Germany for 25 years. He has been back here for 6 years. Unfortunately, his son no longer speaks German.
He shows me the way. Dunas is just around the corner. So I know right away who I can go shopping with tomorrow and maybe learn more about his family history.
Dunas is a hostel. I have a private room. There are two bathrooms that have to be shared by 3 people. Rodrigo runs the place and has two dogs that are not yet used to the changing people here. Antonio is a show off, says Rodrigo. He would bark but not do anything...well, maybe I scared him and he just couldn't help but snap..
A guest
Restaurants, etc. are within walking distance. Tonight, I had fish with a view of the roaring waves and beach life.
Curitiba feels so far away again.
10th January.
Nothing works, nothing at all!!!
Hard to imagine: beautiful weather outside, blue sky, golden sun, dunes and the Atlantic Ocean just a stone's throw away - but everything is at a standstill.
The 'morning chill' allows me to go to the supermarket to stock up on oatmeal and bananas. I can still manage to prepare breakfast. But then this warm and humid subtropical climate completely drains my energy.
Even playing dead doesn't help. The humidity seeps out of every pore.
Taking a post-breakfast nap should help, I think. But even after that, the only thing that helps is reaching for my e-reader. I can still do that. Read, sleep, read. And in the back of my mind, I think, this is such a shame!! When else will I be in such a beautiful landscape, no tourists around me, the beach huge, sandy, and with a mighty surf.
At around 4 pm, I leave my room. Rodrigo, the hostel owner, only accepts cash. There are no ATMs here. I haven't started thinking properly yet. It can only process 0 and 1. The idea of trying it at a local supermarket doesn't even occur to me.
The wind on the Vespa gives me some relief but does not clear my head.
I live in the town of Praia Grande, which is quite touristic. But that doesn't matter because Rodrigo's house is far away from the hustle and bustle.
São Francisco, located 20 km away, is not a town. There is a sign pointing to the historic center, but it takes me what feels like hours to get there.
I don't see any structure here. There is no town center with a church and square. The signs don't make sense. But it could also be due to my lack of thinking ability.
Finally, I did it: the historic center is located directly in a bay. It lives up to its name. Colorful, two-story colonial-style houses, some in need of renovation, line the small bay. It feels like an empty film set here. Everything is carefully arranged, even the trees and the view of the water - but no people. Cobbled streets and the water give this scenery a hint of life.
I don't have time for photos. I want to find a bank at last! There is no bank in this 'town'. I drive around in circles, up and down. My patience is wearing thin. Finally, I find a Caixa, which, upon closer inspection, does not accept Visa cards.
There is an ATM in the shopping center next door. Shopping center... During my long journey through South America, I was spared from Anglicisms for a long time.
The sun is hidden behind a dark cloud cover. It looks like a storm. I want to start the return journey, but the navigation system goes crazy. On top of that, it's rush hour and there is heavy truck traffic. I am still on the connecting route to Florianopolis and try to get to my turnoff.
It's not my day. Changing direction is not that easy. I'm stuck in this traffic vortex and just manage to turn left into a small field path. Everything is back to square one. The navigation reacts correctly. The remaining kilometers are counted in reverse, but the time indication is going crazy. It says that I need 49 minutes to reach my destination. The navigation system insists on that even when I am back in front of my hostel. Whatever.
No one in sight
The storm has passed. The clouds are still hanging in the valleys.
The east wind is blowing them alongThe weekend is over. Peaceful evening atmosphere
11th January to 14th January:
Midsummer in South America!
I stay put and do nothing. Absolutely nothing. In the late afternoon, when the power of the sun is waning a bit, I venture out of the four walls. They protect me from the sun but not from its heat. The ceiling fan provides me with a bit of wind. Any movement requires an immediate trip to the shower. All that's left is reading and eating something in the evening and stretching my legs.
All windows and patio doors are open and provide some draught
While in Puerto Maldonado heavy tropical downpours provided temporary relief, it stays dry here.
Nevertheless, on Wednesday, I will continue heading south with a stop in Blumenau.
A dream location. A view from the terrace door onto the dunes
On the past weekend, I had to exchange Rodrigo's nice hostel for a half-dark room in the town center, but equipped with air conditioning. Since yesterday, I'm back here. It's calm here again. I have downloaded two books by Ken Follet onto my e-reader and I'm on vacation.
Dark clouds approaching. It remains dry
The storm is over. The clouds are still in the valleysA sandstorm at farewell
The further route planning will take me away from the coast again. To where the temperatures are more comfortable and my energy level can settle back to normal.
Tomorrow I will go to Blumenau, and on Monday, I will head into the mountains.