Vardzia Cave Monastery

Wednesday June 5, 2024, day 11 of 13.

We visit the famous cave city of Vardzia. Founded by King Giorgis III and his daughter Tamara in the 12th century as a border fortress against Turks and Persians. The cave dwellings were carved into a rock wall that rises about 500 meters from the valley. There were probably up to 2000 of them, of which 750 still exist. In the numerous caves you can find relics of everyday life such as ovens, wine cellars for Qvevri, 2 churches, a meeting room and Queen Tamara's chambers. The rock church of the Assumption of Mary with beautiful frescoes. 800 monks once lived there. Each monk was entitled to 1.5 liters of wine a day. I think you can bear it like that. We climb the many stairs and with my headlamp I illuminate dark, smoke-blackened rooms. Today many swallows live in the caves. Our bird friends report on a wide variety of feathered friends.

Great weather, but already very hot. Nevertheless, an excursion a few kilometers up the valley. Frogs, cicadas, cows, scorpions and a black widow were discovered.

For dinner we drove a few kilometers down the valley and through a very narrow village. But where is the restaurant? Ilia and Asmus ask their way. We are greeted in silence. Nevertheless, it is a friendly family business. There is grilled trout and a somewhat unusual red wine that doesn't want to dissolve. Only drink water? Not with me! The revenge is red wine stains on my T-shirt. On the way back we come to an abrupt stop. A large boulder had fallen onto the road, the force even made a deep hole in the tarmac road. We pass it. Later by the river we hear the howling of a jackal! We listen intently, but the silence of the night returns. One thing is certain: we are not alone!