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Day 63: Lifou, New Caledonia - the island that holds us briefly

Paskelbta: 27.12.2022

Lifou (formerly also Lifu or English Lefu) is the largest, most important and most populous island of the Loyalty Islands in the French overseas territory of New Caledonia. With an area of ​​around 1,200 square kilometers divided into 3 tribal areas, there are almost 10,000 residents. The main town and administrative center of the Loyalty Islands Province as well as the island of Lifou is Wé on the east coast. The official language is French, while the vernacular is Drehu. In the Oceania regional language, the island itself is also called "Drehu". Lifou is not actually an island, but the largest coral atoll in the world above sea level. The lagoon, which was once located in the middle of the island, is now covered by dense tropical forest. Lifou is known for its impressive cliffs, breathtaking stalactite caves, and the dreamy white sandy beaches, which are among the most beautiful in New Caledonia.

As in other parts of New Caledonia, "Bougna" is the traditional feast on the Loyalty Islands. Crabs and yam roots are wrapped in banana leaves and cooked for hours. Often this specialty is also prepared with chicken and taro or papau fruit.


A few days ago we found out that we have to leave 1.5 hours earlier in the evening than originally planned. The mayor requested this because a local festival is planned for the evening. We have just received the message that we can also dock later (planned was 7 a.m.), as the flight of our pilots and local authorities, which was scheduled to go from Noumea to Lifou today, could not take off for weather reasons. We have now received a special permit to anchor in the bay without pilots on board and start the shore leave. It is now 12 o'clock.

1 p.m .: It's raining and according to the weather app, it will stay that way all day. We decide not to leave the ship. Instead, I go to the sauna. Unfortunately, the weather app was too pessimistic: the afternoon was mostly rain-free.

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