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Mexico - Cozumel Island and Valladolid with Chichén Itza

Paskelbta: 20.08.2019

Cozumel

Next stop in the Quintana Roo state on the Yukatan Peninsula is Cozumel. A stronghold of mass tourism, but still a very beautiful island, significantly larger than Caye Caulker for example. To explore the island properly, you need a car or a scooter. Large holiday resorts for the huge Mexican families are scattered around the island - banana boats, water castles, miles of parasols, all inclusive. I stay in the main town of the island where the ferry drops me off after almost an hour of travel. The hostel is cozy and offers me enough time to work on the blog. Snorkeling and diving around Cozumel is also excellent, as the same reef that lies in front of Belize also passes by here. That is also my main concern - to experience another beautiful snorkeling tour. The reality is a bit different though. There are many boats and providers that overwhelm you upon arrival. And the tour itself is also a bit disappointing. A large group and only a few fish can be seen at quite a depth, a turtle briefly appears. In the end, there is a stop with giant starfish. That's it. In the shallow warm water, there are some snacks, fruits, and beer. The non-swimming Mexicans are happy and satisfied to finally take off their life jackets, after being dragged through the water by the guide with a lifebuoy before - poor guy. I have never seen the trash heap that this agency generates in just a few hours before. Disposable snorkels in plastic bags, chip bags, beer bottles, plastic bottles - everything goes into a big bag. And it is the same with other agencies. And of course, there are enough experts who can't even manage to throw their trash in the bag. I'm glad when I can leave the boat again. I spend the rest of the time on the island mostly in the hostel. But I still go out for food and to watch the sunset.

Our speedboat for crossing to the island.
Our speedboat for crossing to the island.
There are no beautiful beaches directly in Cozumel town.
There are no beautiful beaches directly in Cozumel town.
But the promenade is very nicely designed.
But the promenade is very nicely designed.
A few traditional motifs. Pirate ship in the background.
A few traditional motifs. Pirate ship in the background.

Here is a monument for the divers. It is quite well done.
Here is a monument for the divers. It is quite well done.

As we sail out for snorkeling, it seems like we are getting away from the bad weather.
As we sail out for snorkeling, it seems like we are getting away from the bad weather.
But in the evening, there is a beautiful sunset.
But in the evening, there is a beautiful sunset.


Valladolid

With the ferry, I return from Cozumel to the mainland and then continue directly by bus to Valladolid. The good thing about the Yukatan Peninsula is that it progresses quickly here. Everything is flat, the roads lead straight towards the next city. And so, you really only need 2 hours for 200km instead of the usual 4 hours. No mountains, no curves, I haven't had that on my trip before. The only pain you have to endure is the air conditioning, which is always set to Arctic. These damn modern buses! But by now I'm used to it. Sweater and scarf are always within reach at 35 degrees in the shade. Valladolid is rather quiet. No big surprise, it's hot, the city is not particularly big or beautiful, but it's still enjoyable around the plaza and on the way to the former convent. However, most tourists come here to visit the most famous ruin in Mexico - Chichén Itza. That's also my intention, but only for the next day. On day one, important things like sleeping in and doing laundry come first. And I inform myself a bit about the city and stroll through the streets. I also needed an internet café again. And then I suddenly stood in front of the 'Casa de los Venados'. This is a colonial house that two Americans bought as a ruin 20 years ago and have since renovated extensively. But not only that, they are also avid collectors of Mexican art and have now collected over 5,000 exhibits in their house. From eccentric to gigantic, filigree, and classic, there is something from almost every state. The house already appears a bit cramped but fascinating, and there are really beautiful pieces. And the two actually still live there. So, it doesn't feel like a museum, it feels very lively. That was an interesting experience.

Visit to the
Visit to the 'Casa de los Venados'.
Spacious villa.
Spacious villa.
With pool.
With pool.
And garden.
And garden.
There is even a specially designed dome in the outdoor area.
There is even a specially designed dome in the outdoor area.
But mainly, it is about the artistic interior design.
But mainly, it is about the artistic interior design.


Very colorful!
Very colorful!

Firda Kahlo is always present.
Firda Kahlo is always present.
Each flower on the cactus represents a miscarriage by Frida Kahlo. Her life story is really not for the faint-hearted.
Each flower on the cactus represents a miscarriage by Frida Kahlo. Her life story is really not for the faint-hearted.
The dining room. The chairs are decorated with significant Mexican personalities from history.
The dining room. The chairs are decorated with significant Mexican personalities from history.

Some unusual Catrinas. Although they are probably Calaveras.
Some unusual Catrinas. Although they are probably Calaveras.
I have already ordered the table for the next Skat game.
I have already ordered the table for the next Skat game.


To recover from the heat, I took a long nap in the afternoon. In the late afternoon, I visited an apiary. They specialize in showcasing the honey tradition of the Maya. There were several old bee species from this region to see - very different species. Bees that don't sting, very small bees, bees that don't fly, bees that don't produce honey. And of course, there was honey to taste in the end. However, the majority of honey on the Yucatan Peninsula is now produced by the high-yielding European honeybee.

In the evening, I went to the light and sound show at the former convent, where the history of the city was portrayed. They really like light shows in this area, as I would later find out.

A dry cenote at the Maya Bee Museum.
A dry cenote at the Maya Bee Museum.
Here you can see more clearly that it used to be filled with water. It is still moist. That
Here you can see more clearly that it used to be filled with water. It is still moist. That's why the plants grow so well.
The nighttime light show at the former convent begins.
The nighttime light show at the former convent begins.
The cathedral of Valladolid.
The cathedral of Valladolid.


The next morning, the time had come to go to Chichén Itza. But the departure was abruptly stopped. First, I had to find someone to open the prison door to leave the hostel. Half an hour later, we finally started. And Chichén Itza was impressive, especially the central pyramid. However, I still don't understand why this place receives so much more attention than, for example, Palenque or Tikal. The rest of the complex is rather average, just much more touristy and expensive. It's simply good marketing! The location is also easier to reach than the ruins hidden in the jungle. After about two hours, I'm back outside and return to Valladolid. I actually wanted to visit the surrounding cenotes in the afternoon, but I was too lazy and gave in to the heat again, and did nothing instead. The next morning, I continued on to Mérida.

The central pyramid of Kukulcán in Chichén Itza.
The central pyramid of Kukulcán in Chichén Itza.
Here you can clearly see that the right side was renovated. You can also hear bird calls again when you clap your hands right in front of it. Which the tourist groups practice extensively, of course...
Here you can clearly see that the right side was renovated. You can also hear bird calls again when you clap your hands right in front of it. Which the tourist groups practice extensively, of course...
The left side is still in its original state. A nice comparison.
The left side is still in its original state. A nice comparison.
There are beautiful decorations and figures to discover throughout the entire complex.
There are beautiful decorations and figures to discover throughout the entire complex.

This iguana dares to go into the snake
This iguana dares to go into the snake's mouth.
Temple of the Warriors.
Temple of the Warriors.
And the Thousand Columns.
And the Thousand Columns.
There are other unrestored buildings further away from the central squares.
There are other unrestored buildings further away from the central squares.
They have their own charm. And are just as beautifully designed.
They have their own charm. And are just as beautifully designed.

But they also look a bit dilapidated.
But they also look a bit dilapidated.
This is what it looks like when buildings are being restored. Real artistry.
This is what it looks like when buildings are being restored. Real artistry.
The huge ball court. How are you supposed to hit the small rings?
The huge ball court. How are you supposed to hit the small rings?
No decorations were spared here either.
No decorations were spared here either.
The complex is so big and the work is so time-consuming that they never really keep up with maintenance.
The complex is so big and the work is so time-consuming that they never really keep up with maintenance.

But the work is worth it when it looks like this afterwards. That
But the work is worth it when it looks like this afterwards. That's why every visitor pays their $25 - at least the foreigners.


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#cozumel#valladolid#casa de los venados#chichén itza