Published: 23.12.2017
Greetings from the wonderful New Orleans. To be honest, I'm not sure if I'm still in the same country where I've been traveling for so many weeks ;). New Orleans is absolutely different from anything else I've seen in the USA so far. And I really mean this without any judgment... New Orleans amazes me just as much as the rest of the USA. I just can't believe that a country can have so many contrasts. A few years ago, I had the great opportunity to travel to Cape Town. And here, I feel more like I'm in South Africa than in the USA.
First of all, I'm finally meeting many black Americans here! About 75% of the population in New Orleans is black, while in most of my other stops, I mainly met white Americans. It's really exciting to finally encounter this other side. New Orleans is one of the cities where in earlier times, white people had many African slaves. These former slaves stayed in the USA for many generations and thus form an Afro-American interesting culture in cities like New Orleans.
I apologize for generalizing too much about cultures, as it's certainly not appropriate. However, I have to simply state that many black people just have music in their blood more than white people. And New Orleans certainly benefits from this great effect. Just as I imagined it, there is music everywhere on every street corner here. Bands sing, dance and play their music in churches, bars, or openly on marketplaces. In a very cliché way, you can mostly find jazz music here. I feel completely untalented when I watch the clarinetists here because all the years of playing clarinet can't compare to them, even if I practiced for 100 more years. It's such a great feeling to stroll through the streets or enjoy your coffee or beer while listening to cheerful live jazz music. This music can bring so much joy and serenity. The musicians simply live what they do, that's undeniable.
Another cliché that is absolutely true about the city: Great food! Oh my god, there is such a culinary diversity here that you can hardly find in other cities. Being located so close to the sea, there are naturally many seafood options. Additionally, the weather here is wonderfully warm (yes, even warmer than in California) and at the same time, there is a lot of rain. That means there are many fruits and vegetables that you can (unfortunately mostly fried) enjoy fresh.
The culinary diversity of New Orleans can also be well explained by its historical background. Because of its proximity to the sea, some Europeans settled in New Orleans, trying to gain access to the USA through the city. Many French and Italian settlers came to this southern state, and their influence remains unmistakable to this day. On one hand, their influence is evident in the good, diverse cuisine of New Orleans. On the other hand, it can also be seen in the architectural style of the houses. The most famous neighborhood is probably the 'French Quarter', where the houses actually resemble France and make the style of the city particularly special. In my opinion, the architectural style throughout the city is incredibly beautiful and charming. Many houses have great, huge balconies and verandas. While the houses in the French Quarter are small and cute, in the Garden District of the city, you can find huge mansions where rich colonial powers used to live. The contrast couldn't be greater when you go from one neighborhood to another. While in some corners, life is dangerous and confronted with a lot of poverty, other neighborhoods are richer than ever. So, I could admire houses of Sandra Bullock or Nicolas Cage here.
Poverty in New Orleans is quite a sad aspect that reminds me of South Africa. Many people are loitering here on the streets, homeless, drinking, and without work. Locals told me that it's difficult to find a good job in New Orleans that pays well. Unfortunately, poverty often leads to envy and crime. As much as I like the city, this is the place where I have felt the most unsafe so far. Walking alone here at night is really not easy, and that's coming from someone who doesn't usually have fear at night. Figures suddenly appear from dark corners and start talking to you. Even other women my age were eagerly trying to take my handbag. And you have surely heard of Bourbon Street in New Orleans, right? It is probably the most famous street here, where many jazz bars and clubs gather. It was interesting to walk around there during the day. But at night, it is better to stay away, as it seems to be one of the most dangerous streets in the USA. And since I still want to see a few other parts of America, I didn't take this risk ;).
By no means do I want to discourage anyone from visiting New Orleans with these statements! You simply have to experience the atmosphere here. The great music, the enticing smells, the delicious food. The interesting, multi-faceted people. New Orleans is one of the typical images when you describe the USA as a 'melting pot' of cultures. The various cultural influences make this city so unique. And of course, the Mississippi River flowing through the city is a very remarkable sight and makes the cityscape even more beautiful.
To be honest, at first, I had my doubts about whether New Orleans was worth a visit, as I thought I had seen enough of the Southeast with Miami. Now, in conclusion, I am infinitely glad to have been here. New Orleans is just a completely different image of America, and this city is something that you should see and above all, experience! Especially since no one really knows how long New Orleans will continue to exist in this form. Unfortunately, the city is extremely prone to hurricanes and flooding. Do you remember Hurricane Katrina in 2005? It is considered one of the worst natural disasters in US history, and it hit New Orleans directly. 1,800 people died from the consequences of the hurricane, and the city was several meters underwater due to breaches in the levees. That must have been terrible for all the residents of New Orleans and caused immense damage. However, I have to be very careful at this point with my curious and questioning nature. Many residents here do not want to talk about it anymore and just want to leave this trauma behind, instead of having to talk about it over and over again. Everyone does what is best for them... Nevertheless, I'm amazed that many seem to have rebuilt their houses and still happily live in New Orleans, knowing that the next natural disaster could come at any time. I have great respect for so much courage and love for their homeland!
Actually, I wanted to couchsurf here in New Orleans, and I did so during my first night. And even though my host was very nice (we even went on a motorcycle tour through the city, which was absolutely awesome), I unfortunately had to cancel after the first night... Slowly but surely, even I, with all my adventurous spirit, have reached my limits. I have been carrying a little cold with me for some time now, and here in New Orleans, it seems to have found the perfect opportunity to break out in full force. My body wants to show me that I need more rest, so I tried to listen to it as best as I could. Even though my travel budget didn't really appreciate it, I took a private room and tried to give myself some peace and quiet. This is really a point where I have a lot of learning and growing to do. It's incredibly difficult for me to lie still, 'do nothing', and relax. I feel so bad and useless... and especially in a foreign country without dear people who can help cheer you up, it's not that easy. But I'm trying to practice being calm and relaxed, and thus, getting healthy over Christmas...
Speaking of Christmas: I hope you are all excited and in the Christmas mood. With 25 degrees, it's still a little hard for me to believe that Christmas is approaching rapidly! I'm very curious about my first Christmas away from home. Right now, I think it will be easy for me. But I have often thought things and then felt differently when the actual moment came... so I'm excited to get to know myself better in this regard as well! In any case, I am very fortunate not to have to be alone at Christmas, but even to be invited to a large family. And that in one of the most traditional states in the USA. I will head to the Wild West tomorrow - to Texas. In a village near Dallas, which has even fewer inhabitants than my original village Saeffelen, I will spend Christmas on a Texan farm. I'm super excited about experiencing Christmas with barbecue in American style, certainly an experience for a lifetime :D. I can soon let you know whether this experience is a must-have. If Christmas Eve is already over by then, I wish you all a contemplative, happy Christmas, hopefully with your loved ones. May you all be able to relax from everyday stress and take time for the most important things in life: yourselves and the people you love the most! Use this time to listen to yourself a little bit; perhaps some crazy travel or adventure dreams are hidden within you. I can tell you that it's worth chasing after them!