The nineteenth week

Day 129-135

February 12th started with pain and ended with pain. All the Bia Hơi the day before for Ivar's birthday had just been too much. You're not getting any younger! And in fact, I have never seen Ivar suffer so much! Actually, it's the harder drinker! But when I looked into his bed in the morning, cloudy, watery eyes looked back at me and I was greeted with the words "The hangover gets worse at 35!" welcomed.

Unfortunately we had to go out. Out of the hostel because we found another place to stay. A large room with a small kitchen and bathroom.

Unfortunately the landlady also wanted the money in advance and we didn't have enough cash! So we pulled ourselves together and looked for an ATM. On the way we ate some soup which helped us make a bit of progress!

We spent the rest of the day in bed. In the evening we ate a pizza, but looked for something nearby. The pizza was too much that my stomach hurt.

February 12th was already better! We slept late, drank coffee in bed, finished our books and then went out.

We visited the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. He played a decisive role in shaping the Vietnam War and is therefore quite revered. There isn't a school where you can't find his picture. A true cult of personality. Ho Chi Minh was very humble. After the war he became president and moved not into the presidential palace, but into a simple wooden hut. He decreed that after his death he would be cremated and his ashes would be buried in southern, central and northern Vietnam.

Unfortunately, the government at the time opposed his last wishes. Ho Chi Minh was embalmed and now lies in a mausoleum modeled on Lenin's mausoleum.

Now you can visit Ho Chi Minh.

We didn't because the mausoleum was closed for the New Year holidays. But looking at a dead man isn't on our list of favorites either.

But we were able to visit the One Pillar Pagoda!

We walked around a bit, drank coffee and ate a BBQ on a busy side street.

The following day started late again. We ate fried bananas at a street stall. Happy to have found anything at all! Because of the New Year, many shops are still closed. Only countless cafes are open. At one of them we drank delicious coffee (Ivar had coconut coffee, I had salt coffee. They both sound strange, but they are incredibly tasty!).

Then we took the bus to Westlake. There we arranged to meet Hana again.

We had a drink in a café (again) and then walked along the lake. She showed us a temple, but unfortunately it was closed when we arrived. Nicely lit!

No matter, we have already seen so many temples. In return, Hana bought us some candy. Luckily no ice cream, but a thin dough and rolled into it were dried coconut strips, black sesame and another sweet treat. Was very delicious!

We ran back. Hana wanted to show us another typical dish from Hanoi: Bún chả.

Unfortunately all restaurants were closed. So we ended up at a bar with Bia Hoi. Hana also ordered spring rolls, fried rice, peanuts and the nice gentlemen at the next table gave us smoked ox meat. Everything overall was super delicious!!!

On February 15th I had an appointment at the hospital. I specifically picked out the French Hospital Hanoi. Vietnamese hospitals have a bad reputation, the training of doctors is not that good and English is also a hurdle.

My appointment was at 9:30 a.m. I got there on time but without having breakfast. After filling out a few forms, I was directed to the next waiting area. 10 minutes later I was sitting with the doctor who took a decent anamnesis.

He said an MRI would be good. I thought so too, but asked when that would be. In Germany you wait weeks for your MRI appointment. The doctor said the MRI would be done today. In reality I had to wait 2 minutes before I was called!

I had to wait 30 minutes for the results. I went to the hospital restaurant for so long. I expected something like a canteen. But nothing there! Beautiful tables with placemats and rose! And it was cheap too!

Back at the doctor to discuss the pictures, my fears were confirmed: a herniated disc. Luckily just a mild one. I don't need painkillers or surgery. Just exercises the doctor printed out for me.

Back at our accommodation I picked up Ivar. We went to the Lao embassy to apply for a visa. The application was ready in 5 minutes. The clerk yelled at all sorts of people asking questions. That was a bit funny!

At 4 p.m. we were able to pick up our passports with the visas stuck in them. There were probably 30 passports in a box and an employee had to look through all the German passports until he found ours.

We walked around a bit and finally ate a bún chả. It was super delicious! You get a plate of pasta, a plate full of greens (salad and various herbs) and a bowl of soup (meat, vegetables and slightly fatty broth). It was one of the tastiest soups in all of Vietnam!!!

To digest we went to Train Street. The train runs through a very narrow alley here. You can sit in cafés or restaurants to the right and left of the tracks while the train passes by very close.

But unfortunately not with us. Because of the New Year there are fewer trains. Nevertheless, we sat down and watched the tourists who took funny photos or small children who often fell on the tracks and the rough stone bed. It was more of a stumbling than graceful movement anyway.

On February 16th was departure day. Unfortunately we overslept a bit! So we had to hurry up a bit to make it to check out on time. Shortly beforehand, the cleaner knocked on the door.

We had to wait until 3:30 p.m., then we would be picked up at the Lao embassy and taken to the bus. So we ate one last pho and then went to a cafe with comfortable chairs.

A man on a motorcycle came to pick us up right on time. We looked a bit stupid because he hopefully didn't believe that the three of us would fit on this motorcycle with luggage?! No, luckily he just wanted the money and ordered a taxi for us to take us to the bus station.

When we got there we were taken straight to the bus and given seats at the back. Maybe it sways more in the back, but Ivar's legs were able to extend over the seats into the aisle.

We were in a sleeper bus, which means you didn't sit but rather lay down. The seats are very narrow and there are 3 rows (one on the far right, one in the middle and one on the far left) on 2 "floors". We were on top.

In total we had 5 seats, which we were able to share with a French couple. So we already had plenty of space! We left around 4:30 p.m. We had to wait longer for people at one point, but ok.

Even though I was lying comfortably, I still only slept for 1 hour. We arrived in Điện Biên around 3:00 a.m. In this last city in Vietnam we were put on a smaller, older bus in which our knees didn't fit behind the front seat, so we had to sit crooked. This bus was still filled with all kinds of boxes and sacks. When the inside was full, work continued on the roof. Even a water tank for around 500 liters was transported on the roof.

Around 6 a.m. we finally drove towards the border with Laos. In between, a few more sacks and a few more people were collected.

We were allowed to leave the country without any problems at the border. Bye bye Vietnam! It was wonderful with you! We really enjoyed you (for a long time)! I don't think I've ever been in a country as deeply and intensely as Vietnam! Especially since you usually only visit countries for a few weeks on vacation. But Vietnam, no. With Vietnam we had our ups and downs and met super nice people. This time cannot and will not be forgotten.

Entry into Laos was also unproblematic. Only one tourist on the bus had to turn back because he didn't have a visa. Unfortunately, there are very contradictory statements on the Internet: Visa on arrival is available for Laos, but not at all borders! Luckily we got the hint a long time ago and were prepared.

So Laos. The only landlocked country in Asia. That's why many tourists avoid Laos and prefer to follow the sea. The currency is called Kip or Lak. 1€ is 22,000 kip. The roads are said to be very bad. The road that our bus takes is well paved.

Shortly across the border we took a small family with us. The mother with her baby sat next to me. The little child looked at me big! As always, a few schmaltz noises made the child smile.

This is how the slow ride went by: the baby was breastfed, the man next to him was vomiting because of all the curves, and a row ahead was a toddler crying bitterly. Splendid.

We arrived in Muang Khua around 12 p.m. We looked for accommodation and slept for 2 hours. After all, we have barely slept for 20 hours.

In the afternoon we went out to get money. The first ATM didn't work. So on to the next one. A young man, a Swede named Karl, who was also on the bus with us, came towards us. He just came from the other ATM and reported that there was no more money. Crap.

It's Saturday and there won't be any more money until Monday. We don't have a single kip and we're hungry.

We asked for help at the tourist information center. The man told us that the owner of the Sabaidee restaurant could exchange money. Luckily we have a few euros with us as well as US$!

We exchanged $100 and were finally able to eat!

Charles the Swede no longer had any cash in any currency. So we arranged to meet him because he and we wanted to take the boat to Nong Khiaw the next day.

Needless to say, we went to bed early and slept really well.

The next day we met Karl at the pier at 9am. The "ticket counter", which consists of a chair and a small table, was closed until 9:30 a.m.

So we went to have breakfast. Together with Karl, since he no longer had any money.

Shortly after 9:30 a.m. we were at the table to buy our tickets. 350,000 kip per nose.

The boat is a simple blue wooden boat. Unpadded wooden boards were provided as benches along the left and right sides of the boat. You were more likely to squat on these than sit. In total there were 13 of us tourists on the boat.

The boat wanted to leave at 10 a.m. sharp. Wanted. The first bit of fun was that the engine wouldn't start. The captain tried again and again. By now we were already in the middle of the river. At least the current is very weak.

But the engine wouldn't start. So another boat took us back to shore and the mechanic was called. He repaired the engine and the beautiful journey could begin after there was loud applause for the mechanic.

We drove along the slow-flowing, brown Nam Ou. To the right and left there were steep embankments where trees, bananas and bamboo grew. Every now and then you could see small villages with wooden huts.

The next fun thing was when the engine suddenly just stopped. Without stuttering or anything. Just zap it. The captain did something to the engine and it went back to work.

After about 30 minutes the engine did it again. Just go out. With the difference that it didn't start again!!!

We joked that at least there would be fish and we wouldn't have to starve. Or how best to go to the toilet now.

The captain had an oar that he used to keep us in the middle of the river. There was a slight current, but super slow.

After a while we arrived at a village. The captain said we should stay in the boat, but nothing there! Half sitting, half squatting on the hard wooden beams, our butts and knees hurt.

We all got out to get some exercise and most importantly, to relieve ourselves! Ha, tourists come to the village and then they pee everywhere!

The captain was on the phone with someone while we looked at the small village. There were only huts made of wood or woven walls. The ground was loose earth. At least there were a few satellite dishes! A few cows, pigs, lots of chickens. That was it.

The captain did something on the boat and suddenly the engine started! He turned it off and on again several times and the engine obeyed! Yeah!

At some point the captain gave the signal to board.

So things could continue. The journey was now quite problem-free! We reached a dam. The Nam Ou River is dammed in several places. A Chinese company runs this.

We had to get out at the dam and were taken around the dam in tuk tuks to the next pier. There we were allowed to get into the next boat and the journey continued. This time the landscape became even more beautiful!

We arrived in Nong Khiaw around 5 p.m. Finally. We also sat on the hard boards long enough!

Luckily we got one last bungalow right on the river. We also found a working ATM! We also found a restaurant with delicious food and our first Beerlao! Can it get better?!

To explain: Beerlao is the Laotian beer, which is said to be the best beer in all of Asia.

Now we are buzzed and happy!