Puebla, Cholula, and the European Exodus

About half an hour west of Puebla was Cholula. While Puebla was a Spanish settlement, Cholula had existed long before Columbus and was one of the major cities of Mesoamerica with approximately 100,000 inhabitants. However, a large portion of the population succumbed to European diseases. Today, Cholula was part of the metropolitan region around Puebla. The large pyramid, whose volume and base even surpassed the structures of Giza, received special mention. Today, the structure resembled a covered hill, on top of which the Spaniards had built a Catholic church as a symbol of cultural appropriation...which was struck by lightning multiple times, burned down, and had to be rebuilt.

So, Andy and I set off for Cholula in a taxi. Traveling together had its advantages, certain costs could be shared, and I could rely on my companion's Spanish skills. On the other hand, we spent significantly more time eating as a pair. Whenever we didn't know what to do next, there was always a snack bar or cantina. Communication and comida (food) went hand in hand.

Despite the undeniable charm of both Puebla and Cholula, our hostel felt deserted. The handsome townhouse in the city center, with high ceilings, inner courtyard, roof terrace, and tasteful furnishings, lacked atmosphere without the exchange with other travelers. A volunteer (also euphemistically referred to as hostel staff who worked 25 hours a week for only room and board) explained to me how all Mexico travelers were heading towards the Pacific coast and Yucatan. The accommodations there were already fully booked for days. Fortunately, I had already completed my tour, the so-called Gringo Trail. Numerous temporary emigrants still flocked to the country, especially Canadians and Dutch, referring to their drastic measures to contain Covid. But Germans, Austrians, and Swiss could be found everywhere, even in an otherwise abandoned youth hostel. 'A German in every room' became a reliable saying. Speaking German was not useful as a secret language here, especially when you wanted to make an undisturbed call home.