Tbilisi West - up to Lake Lisi

It's now Wednesday, October 10, 2018. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to solve my banking problem in the past few days. This means that the planned detour to Azerbaijan is off the table. I have decided to go to Armenia on foot. After packing all our belongings in late morning, we set off. The weather is rather cloudy, but the temperatures around 15 °C are ideal for hiking. At the outskirts of Mtskheta and shortly after crossing the Kura River, I take a short coffee break. It's been a while since our last hike, so I want to take it easy. Afterwards, we walk above the main road towards Tbilisi and pass by the remains of the Armaztsikhe-Bagineti fortress. I leave Rango and the backpack behind and explore the archaeological site. Located above the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers, it offers a magnificent view of Mtskheta and the Kura Valley. We then walk along the main road for a while before turning right and starting the ascent into the foothills of the Lesser Caucasus. We reach the village of Karsani shortly after three o'clock. After walking about 9 kilometers, it's time for a short break, as we have been steadily climbing. The sun is now appearing occasionally, illuminating the autumn-colored forests. The next 5 kilometers are not as difficult, and we reach Lake Chilitba in the early evening. Unfortunately, it's not suitable for swimming, only a mud bath would be possible. After setting up our tent at an altitude of about 1150 meters, I enjoy the wonderful view of the evening Tbilisi and the twilight over the lake.

Thursday welcomes us with sunny weather, and I start sweating lightly during the descent to Telovani. From there, we continue to Dzveli Vedzisi via Didgori. Despite its proximity to the capital, the clusters of houses look very poor. No upscale suburbs in sight. The landscape itself also appears barren and is mostly painted in dry yellow and ochre tones. Just above Dzveli Vedzisi, we stop for today after about 10 kilometers at the banks of the Dighmistskali River. The creek has carved a picturesque gorge into the rock, which looks particularly beautiful in the evening sun.

Friday morning (October 12, 2018) brings another small ascent. After 3 kilometers and a little over an hour, we make it to Tsodoreti. In the small village, a young Georgian persuades me to give us a ride towards Tbilisi. We get off near Lake Lisi, and I treat myself to a small lunch at a beach bar. Then I find a spot near the lake to set up our tent. After setting up camp, I go with Rango for a little shopping trip around the lake to Nutsubidze Plato, an outer district of Tbilisi. On the way back, I can already see the tent from afar. It's a nice spot, but a bit too exposed. Just before going to bed, we are visited by the park security on their quad bike. After a short chat, they allow me to stay the night but ask me to move on the next morning.

Saturday starts with drizzly rain, as predicted. I don't want the two quad riders to spoil my planned rest day. I find a more secluded spot for my tent and move about 300 meters away. After breakfast, Rango and I head to Tbilisi - Saburtalo. We stroll through the district, which is mostly dominated by high-rise buildings. In a small bakery, I can finally buy some really good black bread after a long time. Although I also really enjoy Georgian flatbread (Puri), a little variety is nice from time to time. After a coffee, we return to the tent in the early afternoon, having walked about 10 kilometers. Apparently, we had no visitors, and so the day at the lake ends in a relaxed manner.