28.11.2022 - Five days in Chiang Mai

I was almost a little disappointed when I arrived in Chiang Mai on Wednesday morning around 6:30 after about ten hours on the bus. There were no unplanned stops, the bus was not overbooked, the bus driver spoke English, and I was even able to get some sleep. That's what makes night bus travel fun.

Chiang Mai is located in the mountainous north of Thailand and has become a popular destination for backpackers and digital nomads in recent years. Unlike Bangkok, it has a more relaxed and traditional atmosphere, which is why many people stay here longer. I also had the idea to use the time in Chiang Mai as a little break and spend a few days here. After checking in at the hostel, I went for a massage first, because what would a trip through Thailand be without a traditional Thai massage. Kneaded, stretched, and deeply relaxed, I was ready for the days ahead.

Normally, I always use the first full day to explore the surroundings and get an overview. But this time, I decided against it and instead met up with Rob, whom I had met in Ayutthaya, for a short hike. We wanted to hike the Monk's Trail to the landmark of Chiang Mai, Wat Doi Suthep. The temple is prominently located on a mountain and directly borders the national park of the same name. Equipped with hiking shoes, plenty of water, and some provisions, we started the climb early in the morning. I had read beforehand that there were supposed to be small orange cloth bands along the way that should show the hikers the way. But signs and trail markers are a tricky thing in Southeast Asia. Long story short, we saw the first orange cloth band after about two hours and 100 meters before the temple. So either we hadn't been paying attention or there really were no cloth bands. I tend to believe the latter. But the good news was that we had found the temple.

Once we reached the top, we were greeted with lots of gold, even more Buddha statues, and even more tourists. The peace and quiet that we had enjoyed on the way up to Wat Doi Suthep was now gone. Tourists poured out of buses and took over the complex. I couldn't quite understand it, because compared to a smaller temple complex, Wat Pha Lat, which we had visited halfway during the ascent, the big temple was anything but eye-catching. But that's probably because the smaller temple is located in the middle of the forest and you would have to walk there. Well, as you can probably tell, we didn't feel very comfortable with the hustle and bustle.

Originally, our plan was to just climb the temple and then return to Chaing Mai. But since we both still had energy and enthusiasm, we decided to extend the hike and walk another trail in the national park. Looking back, it was a great decision. Surrounded by untouched nature, we hiked through dense jungle, passed waterfalls, and crossed streams. This trail was the real highlight of the day. Sweaty, tired, but happy, we returned to the hostel in the evening.

After the efforts of the previous day, the second day in Chiang Mai was supposed to be quieter again. After a relaxed morning that I used to plan the rest of my journey, I was picked up in the early afternoon. A cooking class was on the agenda. After a short visit to a local market, we drove out of Chiang Mai to a small farm where we were supposed to get to know authentic Thai cuisine. First of all, we were equipped with aprons and all the necessary cooking utensils. Then our cooking instructor took us through their own garden and explained everything about the cultivation and use of local vegetables, herbs, and spices. And then we finally got to the stove. Prior to that, we were allowed to choose one curry, one stir-fried dish, and one soup from a selection that we wanted to cook. I chose a Panaeng curry, stir-fried chicken with holy basil, and chicken in coconut milk soup. And what can I say, it was delicious. The many smells, the different flavors, the spices - a culinary experience.

Day three was supposed to be a bit more action-packed again. Rob and I rented a scooter and drove to a walk-in waterfall about 50 kilometers outside of Chiang Mai in a national park. Originally, we wanted to do a little hike here, which is why we also brought our hiking gear. But when we arrived at the waterfall, it quickly became clear that hiking was not possible. A big sign prohibited us from passing the trail. So, we decided to enjoy ourselves without the work. We took off our hiking gear, put on our swimwear, and jumped into the water.

I finally used the next day to explore Chiang Mai. Without a specific destination, I walked through the streets, occasionally looking into side streets and visiting some temples. But those were really the last ones, no more temples for the next few weeks! In the evening, I went to the Walking Street, which takes place every Saturday and Sunday. Stand after stand lines these streets for kilometers. In addition to souvenirs and clothing, the visit is particularly worth it because of the large culinary offerings.

After a total of five eventful days, I continued further north on Monday afternoon. More about that next time.